sprout

Well, I haven't been able to shoot yet, but I did get the Ghost Ranger 4.5 connector. Dry firing the gun, it really is halfway in between the Glock minus connector and the 5.5, both in weight and creep. I like it, but it isn't magic. I may stone the front and polish to see if that slicks things up, and I'll probably keep running it with the lightened striker and the 4# spring to see if it is reliable. With the 4# spring, it is a very nice trigger. Hopefully it will work 99.99% with more than just federal. Thanks guys.

Thanks for all the help guys. I don't reload, but I've shot about 200 rounds of Federal Champion without a problem so far. I'll keep the 4# striker in and try some harder primers (Rem, CCI and/or S&B ). I'm also going to order the Ghost 4.5 connector, and try that out (with both striker springs). If that doesn't work I'll buy an extra trigger bar or two, have my wife hide the Dremel, and take a swing at ck1's trigger mod. Thanks guys!

I have a Vanek classic drop in with a 4# Wolff striker spring and a LS lightened steel striker. It is a great trigger, but there is a bit of creep. I put back in the polished 5.5 connector, which seems to make a really nice trigger: it is lighter than stock (but heavier than pure Vanek), and still crisp. I've only shot 200 rounds, and it seems to be reliable so far, but I'd be more comfortable with the stock striker spring. Is there any way to get the same feel using the stock striker spring (maybe the new dot connector, or a Ghost 4.5 connector)? Thanks!

For me, the DP 0.225" worked great. About 1" high at 25 yards with a firm grip. I bought a 0.235", shot some test groups, and filed it down. I don't know if it is just me, but how loose I grip the gun really alters how high it shoots. YMMV.

Sig Front Sight Heights #5 = 6.01mm (0.235 inches) #6 = 5.88mm (0.230 inches) #7 = 5.74mm (0.225 inches) #8 = 5.60mm (0.220 inches) #9 = 5.46mm (0.215 inches) #10 = 5.32mm (0.210 inches)

I'm bought sights from them before with no problems. You can also buy most of their products through Midway/Brownells/Top Gun Supply.

You may actually be good to go. As I understand it, the hole positions for most scope mounts and the new sights are the same. So, you may already be set up to use the new sights. Give it a try. Alternatively, you can drill and tap the new-model sight to fit the hole for the old frame. I thought about doing that, but I liked the ability to switch back and forth. I don't know about strength, but I'm kind of anal, so I bought extra screws and turned them down into essentially grub screws to fit the holes not being used. Also, if you are worried about strength, you could use the LPA sight, which is really beefy and might give some extra piece of mind.

Thanks everybody. I checked with Springer, and he said doing the cylinder would be $40, which seems pretty reasonable. However, given some of the problems people have had, I may check with S&W or Burlington Engineering (www.burlingtoneng.com) about Melonite. Big thanks, Dave

I had the same problem with my old-style 66, so I drilled and tapped the top strap for the new-style sights. Now I can use old or new style sights. Very glad I did.

Sorry

I haven't seen a 0.1" sight, but I have narrowed one with a file, and it wasn't too hard. FWIW, as an alternative, you can get a wider rear notch. I've tried, and really like, the Weigand rear blade with a 0.140" notch. http://www.jackweigand.com/smith_wesson_rear_blade.html plus it is only $20 (+10 for the windage screw kit).

I have a S&W Model 15-2 I bought used with a lot of holster wear but a great trigger. I'm thinking of using it as a game gun, but I would like a stronger finish on the cylinder that would also be easier to clean (I love using lead away cloths). At a recent match, I saw two guns with Ion Bond finishes from Springer Precision, and they looked beautiful. I was thinking of seeing if Springer would Ion Bond the 15 cylinder. I understand that Ion Bond is what S&W uses on the M&P340 cylinder, so it would seem an appropriate application. Would you guys do the whole cylinder assembly, or just the cylinder itself? Would Melonite be better (I think S&W used Melonite on a run of black 686s)? Anyone tried either? Thanks for all the help.

Big daddy: Thanks, I was afraid of that. G-ManBart: I shot 5 round groups for all three. For the CZ the first was DA, the other 4 were SA. I wasn't shooting for speed, so the DA shot wasn't a problem, just slower.

Right now, when I'm not shooting a revolver, I shoot a CZ-75BD, which I really like. But I want to try something with a consistent trigger pull. Last weekend I rented an M&P9 and a Glock 17 and tried them back-to-back with my CZ for about 300 rounds to see which I liked better. I liked the feel of the M&P better. The grip angle is similar to my CZ. I'm a big fan of S&W customer service. But I shot them both about the same: about 4" freehand groups at 25 yards with three types of 115gr ammo, while I was getting about 1"-2.5" vertical strings with the CZ. However, while they both shot about the same, I found the stock Glock sights to be really lousy, whereas the M&P sights are OK. Also, I did a search and there seem to be a number of complaints about accuracy with the M&P. I'm thinking with some good sights, I might shoot the Glock a lot better, but there might not be anything I can do to improve the accuracy of the M&P. I only shoot factory ammo, so I would like to get something that shoots < 3" with factory. Do I get the M&P, and hope it shoots better than the rental, or do I get the Glock and suck up the ergonomics? Also, I can get LE pricing on the Glock, which makes it about $100 cheaper than the M&P (including the rebate). Thanks

Just to bring closure. I called IDPA HQ, and the very nice woman who answered the phone asked my question to Robert Ray. He said that, as long as the grips don't add weight, they are fine.

I've never tried them (I've got small hands and use slim grips), but this place makes steel and aluminum spacers in various thicknesses http://www.cmmshootingsports.com/index.php...m7m6pjcieohdsf0

Natchez has the Blackhawk pouches for $12.99 http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?conte...dID=XO410600PBK LA Police Gear sometimes has them for $10.99

I have a Blade-Tech SRB that I really like. It also fits my CZ 75BD by adjusting the tension. One cool feature, for less than $200 (plus mags) you can get a .45 top end and shoot in CDP with the same equipment. http://shop.reedsammo.com/category.sc?categoryId=41

I hadn't seen this posted before, and it seems pretty useful http://czcustom.com/cz-75-85-ts-grips-alum...tic-rubber.aspx

Wow, thanks. With cases, it locks up consistently when the trigger is pulled at a reasonable speed. With the trigger pulled very slowly, it comes up a tiny bit short once in maybe every three cylinders or so.

Thanks. Is it something I could fix with a shim on the trigger? I've called two smiths in my area, and neither wants to work on timing issues. I'm reluctant to send it to S&W for fear it will void the warranty or something. Do you think I would be asking for trouble if I left it alone and I kept an eye out for the gun shaving lead?

I've been looking to try a different revolver in IDPA, when I stumbled on a 6-shot 686 cylinder on Ebay for $50. I figured "what the heck" and picked it up to try in my 686+. It fits in the cylinder window, and had some endshake that was easily fixed with a Power Custom bushing. I dry fired it a bunch, and it seemed to time well, even with my finger dragging on the outside of the cylinder. I shot a couple of matches, and it seemed to run great. However, when I dryfire left-handed, it fails to carry up maybe one in three times. Any ideas why this would happen?

Thanks. You don't think the thin profile and lack of any palm swells makes it dissimilar in style?

The rulebook says that : "Grips may be changed to another style or material that is similar to factory configuration (no weighted grips; see 'weighted grips' in glossary for further details)." It then goes on to define "weighted grips" as "Any set of grips that weigh more than two (2) oz. over factory standard weight for the model." I don't believe the CZ aluminum grips weigh 2 oz more than the factory rubber grips (I think they weigh less), so the question is: are the CZ grips a "style or material" that is "similar" to the factory grips. Because it says "style or material" instead of "style and material", I assume that if either style or material is similar, the grips are OK. Now, it doesn't seem like the material is similar, but is the "style"? I've got small hands, and I really like the thinner grips, but I don't want to practice with something that isn't legal. Does anyone know if there is a ruling on what "style" and "similar" mean? Thanks

I've got a CZ 75BD with non-melted LPA sights, and it fits the box.