Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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Most "cornmeal" described by people is actually unburned powder. The powder is made and then usually coated with graphite in order to help it from clumping and to make it flow better. in poor combustion situations the graphite is burned off powder granules but there is no ignition so what is left is the unburned powder granule. Some powders do not have the graphite coating and the true color shows through. Why do you think Vit N320 is green.
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TK Blue clips with Win brass
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The S&W 53 revos in .22 JET (.357 Mag necked down with a long sloping shoulder to .22) Had the same issues and the traditional fix has been to clean off any traces of oil off the chambers and the loaded ammo, usually with alcohol.
Being a big fan of the hornet (I have more than a few including a few handguns) I was very interested in the Taurus "Raging Hornet" as it was named. The problem I remember distinctly was it had terrible accuracy. One article I read had some accuracy results listed in a table like they do with a few different types of ammo. The groups listed weren't too bad for using a scope @ 100 yards. Not as good as my Anschutz hornet pistol but not terrible but then I saw in tiny print that the groups were shot at 50 yards which meant it went from not that great to terrible.
I will be interested to see how well the Ruger turns out as far as accuracy?
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I have very large hands also and tried a lot of the grips out there and never found one that worked for me due to them not filling up my grip. I tried the Hogue X frame grip on one of my competition revolvers and now I use them on all my full sized S&W revolvers. The grip is big so it fills up my hands and lets me get a proper grip. After I found it worked for me, I put them on almost all my S&W revolvers including a 686 and my 10 shot 617. That way I get the same grip/feel on everything.
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I have the same holster but it must be a later manufacture as it has the maker name molded into the body of the holster on mine.
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I am using N320 with 160's in my 929, nice and clean and shoots great.
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Yes, the click is the mechanism that advances the shell plate resetting on the up stroke, so it advances the shell plate on the downstroke.
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I have found the wet cleaning works better when you have more brass in there. I try to make sure I have it at least half full if not 3/4. If I have to, I will try and plan on cleaning other brass of the same caliber or even throw in some brass I already cleaned just to bulk it up. It is more work separating etc. but it is worth it to get the clean brass.
I use citric acid (same thing as lemishine about 2x .45 ACP cases full) and Armor all wash & wax and only run it for an hour and have excellent results. I rinse well and my brass stays shiny for quite a long time. Supposedly the wash & wax leaves a bit of a wax coating that keeps it from tarnishing too fast. Not sure if that is it but it seems to work for me.
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With the rims exposed and that close together wouldn't a case head blow out possibly detonate the round next to it? if it blew right next to a live rimfire round wouldn't that set off the round? I might be stating the obvious (it wasn't to me until now) but that seems to be a great reason for recessed chambers. Theoretically they could set off multiple rounds since they are all exposed and so close together. might not be an issue in a 6 shot but the 10 shot versions the rims of all the rounds are practically touching.
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I load lots of it, mostly with cast/coated bullets. I use 2400/4198/Reloader 7 mostly but there are others that work well. I will also depend what types of bullets you intend to shoot and how fast you plan on shooting them. The powders above are for mid/full power loads because when you are shooting a 400 gr. projectile you don't need to shoot them super fast. For full power jacketed projectiles you can also use things like Varget and other similar burn rate powders.
Todays market is tough because it is more of what you can find and then make it work. A good way to start is to decide on what kind of power level you are planning on loading for and what projectile you plan on using.
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Whenever it is a single action like a 1911 I always look to see if the hammer is cocked, many times it isn't. Also when they are using revolvers you can sometimes see there is no ammo in the cylinder
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You can also click the blue dot to the left of the topic title. Doing that will take you to the first unread post.
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I have two of them, One in .40 and one in .45. I use the .40 for Single Stack and it has been great, so I bought the one in .45. They are well built and when clamped in my ransom rest for testing the. 40 has been incredibly accurate.
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Funny, I had a shell plate for my 650 (to prep brass and then load on single stage) but didn't have a powder funnel so I figured I would just get a 6PPC 550 conversion to get the powder funnel and get a 550 shell plate along with it.
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Since the ARC is basically a slightly different 6 PPC, a 6 PPC conversion is what you need. The 6.5 Grendel conversion will get you the right shell plate but the powder funnel won't work.
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I assuming you are talking about the tiny screws at the front of the trigger guard? I have had them get stuck before and I completely stopped using them because of the problems with them. They way I got them unstuck was to use a dremel cut off wheel and cut a slot in the screw head and use a small flat blade screwdriver to get them out.
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I would definitely go with an 8 cavity MiHec no lube groove. I picked up one of these for making 155-160 bullets for my revolver and I cant get over how fast it is. The bullets just fall out of the mould when you open it and dropping 8 bullets at a time means I can really make a lot in a shorter amount of time.
Below is a pic of the bullets coated in PC and HiTek and also one of the mould.
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Charlie is who I was thinking.
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Have you tried something like this? These add friction at the connection point and might work for you application.
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I have run WST in lighter lead 10mm loads with 200 gr. coated bullets with no problems. I use WST is most of my cast bullet loads of various calibers. As long as you are not trying to push them too hard, WST is a great powder that burns clean.
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I load my .38 mid on my 650 and then use a hand primer to make sure the primers are seated. For my 929 I load the 9mm on the 1050 and don't have to mess with the primers.
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Or you can just write on it with a sharpie and wipe it off with alcohol when you want to change it. I do the same thing on my plastic ammo boxes.
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Stopped using them with plastic grips before the metal ones existed. Now with my stainless grips I still don't use them. Still have never had any issues with not using them.
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You can load lighter shooting loads (basically .40 S&W) with those fast powders but need to get a slower burn rate powder for the heavier loads. Like many people I use Longshot for most of my full power loads as it is a ball type powder that meters well in my Dillon's and gives good velocity/power. I have also seem others that like Blue dot powder and also AA#7 is great for full power 10mm. I still like 800X for my top loads but I use a chargemaster to meter the powder since it is like loading cornflakes.
excess unburnt powder in the chamber
in Open Pistols
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To follow up. Went out and poured a capful of N320 out of my open jug for folks who have never used it. Not sure what to say about others who use N320 and it is not green?