recardoa

Toolguy & Pigfixer: Thanks for the thumbs up and speedy response! I will keep those interested in the progress in the loop!! recardoa

I am working up a load for service stock revolver using VV N320. I chrono'd a 158g RNFP so far at 4.6g screaming by the sensors at 747.3 Average FPS. That is only a Power Factor of 118.07. Manual says only go up to 4.8g. Any reccommendations on going up that high with Smith 4 inch 686 revo? I gotz no problems with going there, but was interested in what the field had to say. Already bought 1,000 158g. recardoa

Thanks for all the information folks! Just got back from TDY so I didn't have time to respond before I left. Results Were!!! Used a carbide drill bit and a drill press. Cinched up everything on the barrell and gasblock and started drilling with steady pressure. It actually worked until the bit (shich I didn't know would bend) started moving towards the softer metal. the hole went oblong abit but I was able to get the broken tap out. I will have to use a 10/32 button tip hex screw but I was able to get some threads in it with a the correct tap. However I was able to locate a nother new gas block at the gun show in fredericksburg, VA. What I learned!!! I learned that a tap (which is supposed to be harder than the metal, when flexed off a 90Degree angle) will snap. However, listening to experience regarding the broken tap extractors I can not understand why they wouldn't work. It does look like a reasonable solution but one small enough was going to be the gimmick. Four fingers, into four flutes.......!! Popular opinion says that they don't work. Does anyone know why they don't work? Thanks R

Ok thanks! I am off to the auto craft shop. I'll let you know how I make out.\ R

Ok! I thought that I read some where tht non carbide Taps just peen over when drilled? Is this correct? Patience you mentioned? R

Thanks Randy!! The Tap WAS a 8/32 so the drill bit you recommend would have to be a smaller guage than the Tap diameter. Yes? A drill press would providedirect even pressure for the carbide bit? R

While taping the front sight assembly taper pin holes while it was installed on the barrel, with a Hanson 8/32NC, four fluted tap, the usual event happened.....the tap broke off in the taper hole. After searching all day for a tap extractor, I was unable to find one with four flutes for that size. Walton has the correct extractor but in three flute configuration. Situation: Now I have a sight assembly which I cannot get off the barrel with a broken Tap lodged in the rear (ejection port side) taper pin hole. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to clear the broken tap? Recardoa

thanx jd45. I'll give the Briley folks a call and let you know what they say!

Does anyone know if it is posible to have choke tubes installed in win 101 O/U? Any reccommenations on who would be able to do a good job? I called Winchester and they declined to answer or make suggestions. Thanks Recardo

The serpa holster is a great holster. Does any one know which model is to be used with the Para/STI 1911 framed weapon? I tried the 1911 serpa version and the part of the mag well just behind the trigger guard wedged the receiving end of the holster so much that the gun was stuck. It was a hell of a struggle to get the weapon back out. The store owner and I worked on it for 15 or 20 min. Fortunately it wasn't my weapon and holster or I would have been pretty salty!! Anyone know of a workaround for the wide body 1911 frames? recardoa

Sorry to jack your thread, but does anyone know of a hard cover for the C-More sight itself? There were no posts to my thread on the subject matter. recardoa

Does anyone know of the availaility of a hard cover for the C-more sight. I have seen the foam cover made by Scope Coat but am not interested in it. Thanks recardoa

OU812: Thanks for the information! It was great to see a site that I had not heard of before, to look around!! While there, I did not notice any magazines specifically marked for the Para 18-9! I don't know if the mags are interchangeable with the 38S mags. My concern is that the 38S is a rimmed round and the 18-9 is rimless. Would this be a magazine tuning issue or am I going overboard? Anyone have ideas!! Recardoa (Welcome to 2008 everyone!)

Chad S: You may want to hit the Dillon web page up to download a free copy of the manual instructions!! That is a great help for a job like the one you are going to do!! Recardoa

Everyone: This post has some very interesting information! I respect each and every opinion submitted. The expertise that is harnessed by this type of discussion is priceless. We all express ourselves differently and have various levels of expertise. That is a good thing!! Let's keep it going. One thing that I found out was that Para only makes the 18-9 in stainless steel and I would not like to own anymore stainless steel weapons. (Just personal preference!) However, after reviewing the input and some of my own research I am leaning towards the conversion direction. My research presents a new question on magazines!! Para lists the magazine as part # PNM9 specifically for 9mm. I have had pretty good experience with M*C-G*R mags in my 16-40, however Br**n***s does not list this mag dedicated to the 9mm but rather the .38S (part #:625-000-014). Question: Does this mean that the M*C-G*R mags are interchangeable for 9mm and .38S? Or does it mean that M*C-G*R mags are not made for the 9mm Para? Recardoa