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Revopop

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Posts posted by Revopop

  1. I'm getting ready to shoot my first ever IDPA SSR match, and although I've had Comp IIIs for years I've never really used them on the clock so I thought it was worth checking out what's available nowadays before I get used to something.

     

    I initially looked at the Jet loaders, but of course if you start researching you'll always find someone talking about the mythical German SL Variant and how it's the best design ever but no one can get them because they're so rare. Well turns out someone in Japan is making them and calling them "replicas" of the original. Don't know about the intellectual property implications, but to me it seems like whoever owns the rights to the design isn't stopping them.

     

    I figured that they were inexpensive enough I might as well take a swing and try these out, and they just arrived today. Didn't find any info here on the forum so I thought I'd take some pics and share first impressions. I don't have a genuine vintage SL Variant to compare, but I've got Comp IIIs so I took some side-by-side pics.

     

    When you order, you can opt for sea shipping for $21 or air for $29. I paid the extra $8 and they arrived within 4 days, even though the quoted shipping time was 1-2 weeks and possibly up to 3. I also received two "free gifts" with my purchase. One was a pretty janky looking metal speed strip/loader contraption and the other was 3 extensions for the Speedloaders I'd ordered. I appreciate the freebies, but I ordered 3 extensions already so I ended up with 3 extras - had I known I was getting free ones I would've saved that money. They're made of a sightly flexible rubbery material, but once they're actually screwed onto the speedloader they seem quite solid. Along with the freebies, there was also two thank you postcards featuring everyone's favorite American, Burt Gummer!

     

    The packaging is presumably also a replica of the original packaging, all markings are in German and it even has the name and address of the original company on it. There's even a page of instructions entirely in German. In the box there is a card explaining in the vaguest possible terms that these are not originals, but otherwise you wouldn't know that these came from Japan if you didn't see the shipping box.

     

    In use, they're noticeably different from the Comp IIIs. Each round on the SL has it's own individual spring to send them into the charge holes, as opposed to one spring for all 6 in the Comp IIIs. That single spring has to be pretty big and strong to eject all 6 rounds, so they come out of the Comp IIIs with a lot more authority than the SLs. The SL Variants also seem to be a little more finicky about releasing all 6 at once, but most likely that's gonna clear up with some practice. I tried to get a pic but couldn't take capture it, I did also find that the actuator that releases the rounds is a little longer in the Comp IIIs so it hits a little sooner - if I keep these SL Variants, I'm definitely gonna want to add some material there to achieve that effect. For carry these are gonna be great, without the handle extension they're about the size of an HKS or Comp II but much faster to actually use.

     

    We'll see how I feel about them after I use them a bit, I tried to take some relevant pics but not to spam the sub, so if there's anything specific that anyone wants to see just let me know and I'll try and add to the thread. Hopefully others will find this helpful.

     

    Pics

  2. 1 hour ago, pskys2 said:

    The main issue is the trigger can't cycle while the cylinder is open.  So open the cylinder and pull the trigger, my ICORE/USPSA guns will cycle as I removed the cylinder latch spring.

     

    That 625 would be perfect for ICORE L6!

    Oh I would _love_ to shoot ICORE, but I've never lived anywhere close to a club.

     

    Currently the nearest USPSA match is about an hour away in Kentucky, but locally there's up to 4 IDPA matches a month, 2 Steel Challenge, and some other oddballs like .22 bowling pins, precision rifle, AR matches, etc once every month or two. Lots of opportunities if I can afford the ammo 🤠

  3. 1 hour ago, Racinready300ex said:

     

    Something to note in IDPA, the hammer cannot cycle with the cyl. open. So if your hammer is drastically bobbed ... "Carmonized" it may be illegal anyway.

     

    Granted it's unlikely the equipment check guy really knows that much about revolvers to notice. 

    Interesting, wouldn't have even occurred to me. I've got a 4" 25-2 that I might try out eventually, but TBH if nobody else is shooting ESR I'd probably go with a bottom feeder anyway

  4. 27 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:

    If I was going to go back to revolver in IDPA I'd shoot a 625. If the club is doing it right it's all revolver division now. Moon clip guns need to make 150 PF ?? I think. and speed loaders get to make 105 still. I'd take the recoil over the speed loaders. Sucks your gun is 5".

     

    I loaded speed loaders weak hand. 

    Yeah, I've got a cut down 25-2 that would be IDPA legal, but the 625 is fully Carmonized and it's just perfect so it pains me not to use it. I even have 15k Federal large pistol primers in the garage! If I get frustrated enough with the speedloaders I'll probably switch to ESR, but if the other guy with a wheelgun is shooting SSR that's kinda where I wanna go at this point.

  5. First off, hello! I'm getting back into shooting after more than a decade. I used to live in Iowa and spent too much time around Carmoney (hi Mike!) and ended up becoming a revolver shooter, but apparently while I was gone y'all changed the USPSA rules.

     

    In southern Indiana where I live now IDPA has apparently exploded in popularity, I've got a friend who's just getting into shooting, so I went to his first match with him last weekend. I shot a CZ-75 in SSP because that's what I had ammo for, it didn't go particularly well but that's what I expected. To my surprise and delight though I found another guy who shoots a revolver regularly, so for the next match I'm gonna shoot revolver too. My good ol' 625 is 5" which isn't IDPA legal and he shoots SSR with speedloaders, so I'm gonna shoot SSR too, which will be a first for me.

     

    I have a Model 10 and Comp IIIs, but all my experience is with moonclips, which I load with my weak(left) hand. I know it's a little unusual, but it's always felt better to me and with the 625 at least it was measurably faster as well. Pretty much everything regarding speedloader technique that I've found online is very old and based on what they used to teach cops, which always has you reload with your strong (right) hand.

     

    Does anybody else use speedloaders like this? Got any tips or advice for me on technique?

  6. The trigger, safety, and grip safety are definitely Caspian, so I'd be willing to bet that all the parts are made by Caspian. I recently got a 1911 Traditional Compact, and I'm really impressed with it. It's nicely fitted, all forged parts, and by far has the most features for the money of any 1911 out there. My father in law did the FFL transfer for me, and he was so impressed with it that he ordered a 1911 Traditional Match. I think the biggest reason why Sig 1911s are less popular is that until the Traditional models came out it was a huge hassle to get holsters for them. The Max has the old style profile, but if it becomes as popular as some expect it to be that'll help with the holster issue.

  7. When asking questions about CZs, the general consensus seems to be listen to what eerw (aka Stuart Wong of Colorado Springs) says. I'd been eyeing a CZ for years, but then this last fall I finally ran across a great deal on a CZ-75B and had some extra cash in the gun fund. It was such a good deal that I had the seller (bought it on GunBroker) send it straight to Stuart for a trigger job. I also had him install night sights while he was at it. Now I've never handled a Shadow, so I don't have a standard of comparison, but it is definitely the best DA/SA gun I've ever owned. The DA is smooth and the SA is as nice anything other than a 1911. I wanted to use it for carry and nightstand duty as well, so the FPB is intact and Stuart used all stock parts. He said the trigger pull could be lighter with a CZ competition hammer and some other tweaks, but again I wanted to use it as a defensive pistol as well.

    Having said all that, I've got about half the cost of a CZ Custom Shadow in my 75B, and I couldn't be happier with it. :cheers:

  8. I was poking around the Dawson site, and I saw that they're selling the... competition ready 9mm Spartan...

    I do like the idea of buying a gun with trigger and reliability work already done though.

    I need to clarify something: None of our Dawson Precision CRP guns have any internal modifications or trigger work done.

    The only pistol we currently offer that service on is the Dawson Precision Super-Tuned STI Edge.

    -Chet

    OK, I must've just assumed that it was, thinking of the Super-Tuned Edge. That definitely helps make my decision, because I already have a spare Techwell and I don't think the big mag button is IDPA legal anyway.

  9. I'm trying keep it under $1000 including mags, otherwise I'd probably getting a Trojan. I'm working a different job now, and though I like it a lot more than my old one, I don't make as much money as I used to, so a $250 difference between the Springfield and the Trojan is more to me than it was a few months ago.

  10. I was poking around the Dawson site, and I saw that they're selling the Stainless Springfield loaded in 9mm for $854, or the competition ready 9mm Spartan for a little less. I don't love the look of the Dawson magwell on a single stack, and I've got an extra Techwell laying around. I do like the idea of buying a gun with trigger and reliability work already done though. The springfield will have a nicer finish and probably a better resale value, but if it needs trigger and/or reliability work that'll be more expense. What would you do in my position?

    PS, if anybody knows a good source for a 1/2x28 threaded barrel too, please let me know.

  11. Operater 2's for Addict. They bite in during recoil, but do not inhibit gun manipulation at all. The only problem with them is, once I used them I had to replace the grips on all my 1911's... :surprise:

    Addict

    Now they're making them for CZs and even revolvers. It's only gonna get worse!

    Huh-whut?

    I've got VZ's on my CZ now (Tactical Diamonds). I don't see the Op II's on the website. Is this "coming soon" scoop?

    I just meant VZ grips in general. I don't have any inside information. Come to think of it, I would really like a pair of Operator IIs for my new CZ. It'd be nice if I could get them for K and N frames too.

  12. I've always preferred the feel of the Vertec frame, but I'm gonna have my first suppressor in a couple weeks and if I get one I'd like to use it with the can occasionally. Tornado Tech offers 92 barrels ready to buy, but I'm not sure if the Vertec uses a different barrel. It's shorter, but is that the only difference?

  13. What he said. I'm one of the young (ish), instant gratification sort of shooters. The out of the box price may only be a little less, but the cost of mags for a Para, even with basepads, will be significantly less than a 2011, and they probably won't require any tuning. The DOH holster I already have for my single stack will work too.

  14. I run a SL barrel in my M&P Pro with no issue but there are a few reasons for that. Accuracy is far better than stock, I get much better than 3" with mine but this has many variables such as the level of the shooter, the trigger, etc. Lets keep in mind it's also a semi-drop in barrel, not hand fitted. I also have done a trigger job to mine. I load 124 JHP MG at 1.15 OAL. I don't believe there to be a lot of variation barrel to barrel. Their technical support was great and they have been doing barrels for the M&P the longest. You can always have a smith throat the barrel a little too. As far as not chambering Glock brass you need to look into a Lee Factory Crimp Die. I shoot mixed head stamp brass from whatever gun. The factory crimp die not only puts a crimp IF you want one it sizes the case where it is needed. Most of my cases get a little rub around the bullet and towards the base of the round after this last step. I have 4,000 rounds through my M&P with one malfunction. After putting in the SL barrel I had a round that didn't go all the way into battery and that was in the first hundred rounds. After that, smooth sailing. Good luck.

    I used to have the same problem with a Wilson KZ45 when I'd first started out reloading using a Lee hand press. The factory crimp die fixed all my problems. Of course, upgrading to a Dillon press fixed a lot of problems too!

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