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mike NM

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Everything posted by mike NM

  1. I thought the whole platform felt on the heavy side.(bolt?)...... Didn't seem to point fast for me.....("Spoiled" by the Taccom aluminum shrouded barrel AR I use I imagine?). Was very reliable Glock mags, lower cost than most AR 9mm's.....Just not for me....
  2. Ordered one.....Grabagun had good price
  3. Do you check with a sizing gauge? or use the Lee "u"die?.
  4. What dot do you see on 99% of the open pistols????.... C-MORE's.... Great field of view, ez change dot modules, excellent reputation..... With minimal skill you can make a slide ride from an old C-More Serendipity...
  5. 93 notch (Mustang?, my son has a 89 Police Interceptor w/heavy engine mods))... See my post on mag mods... Pretty simple & low cost. Update.....Maybe a simple fix for the 19 rd. mags?....... I did remove the bolt hold open from both 19 rd. mags, they were much better. I did lightly sanded/polished the follower.I found that on both mags the followers became stuck in the upper part of the mags at the mid point of the 4 slots. i found about .006 difference in the internal measurements before the "slots" and after the "slots"...........Just enough for the follower to drag a bit in the slotted area, NOT before and Not after. (Bottom part of the mag was fine). I looked for a means to slightly expand this area, nothing seemed to be just right?.... HF to the rescue!!!... The 4 pry bar set ($11.99) worked. Insert one of the longer bars into an empty mag in the slotted area and twist. You can see the metal move but just a few .000's. I tried several spots in the slotted area... Now the follower drops in from the bottom and goes completely to the top of the mag... A little crude but it was all i could find at the time Quote Edit
  6. Update.....Maybe a simple fix for the 19 rd. mags?....... I did remove the bolt hold open from both 19 rd. mags, they were much better. I did lightly sanded/polished the follower.I found that on both mags the followers became stuck in the upper part of the mags at the mid point of the 4 slots. i found about .006 difference in the internal measurements before the "slots" and after the "slots"...........Just enough for the follower to drag a bit in the slotted area, NOT before and Not after. (Bottom part of the mag was fine). I looked for a means to slightly expand this area, nothing seemed to be just right?.... HF to the rescue!!!... The 4 pry bar set ($11.99) worked. Insert one of the longer bars into an empty mag in the slotted area and twist. You can see the metal move but just a few .000's. I tried several spots in the slotted area... Now the follower drops in from the bottom and goes completely to the top of the mag... A little crude but it was all i could find at the time
  7. Good info, I have the moly spray on hand... I'll try the spray on one and the BHO removal on the other.... The 5 & 9 rounders work 100%. Time to get a longer bag?...
  8. New RIA 80 owner.... Not new to mag fed shotguns. This gun looks to be well thought out compared to others...Even cycled some 1 oz. x 7 1/2 loads (5 rd mags).. I've been reading all the other 40+ posts on the shotgun including the 19 rd mag info. I did the usual removal of any plastic flash from the follower and removed any sharp edges, reversed the springs, etc. After some initial jamming, the bolt hold open lever edge has been slightly rounded thinking that was the issue?....... Looking at the inside of the 19 rd. mag body, it's easy too see that the rear transition grove from one mag body to the other leaves room for the bolt hold open lever to "catch" and tilt the follower rendering the mag to a "jammed" condition..... I think the bolt hold open could be useful at times BUT the spring inside the bolt hold open is to stiff forcing the follower to tilt???? ... looks like I could either remove the spring & arm (rendering the bolt hold open feature gone) and/or/ try realigning the 2 mag sections as suggested?. Long ago, I had a Tooth & Nail 1919 28 rounder that never functioned 100% from day one even after a trip back to them, yet some are lucky enough to have functional big sticks? ( Yes, I used the proper ammo back then, AA's 1350 fps)...When the follower transitions / gets "stuck" the shells are free to rattle around in the mags. SO, we all know that when "trouble" rears it's head your shooting in a match it seems?.. So what works best?.. It's the follower being stuck/tilted it's not the ammo. The bolt hold open sure could help a reload under match conditions I think?...Opinions please....
  9. Can you post a picture of the mod ?. Thanks.
  10. Anyone tried the 20 rd. drum yet..... I actually saw one work n a Saiga once. Had a 1919, never did get the 23 rounder to function from day one......
  11. I've owned nearly all the various mag feed shotguns through the years, none were consistent runner's, especially with the 19/23 round mags and I've tried all the different shells out there. I've read the many reviews on the RIA and bit, got one on the way from KYGunCo. i have read all the info I could find, both here and on the :net: Did someone finally get it right????, (Hope so). is the trigger going to be the biggest issue?.( I 've used the JP spring kits before and they were a low buck improvement)....... looks like Tooth&Nail and others are working on a trigger? but I can't see 4 1/2#'s as a winer?.....
  12. HuMMMM... I just installed what was described as an AR 10 buffer tube, (1" longer overall) on a recent AR build. I'm 5'7" and I like the longer OAL...
  13. 7/1/19...RIA VR 80, Thought I'd post, KYgun had 20 in stock today, make that 19... Greg Cote has or had 9 and 19 round mags -2 of each.
  14. We like e'm.... All of the above mods done, get the 6 moa dot whatever brand of dot you get..... I like my Vortex Venom
  15. Good info. makes you wonder?.... "They" must have known there was a potential problem with the jig design as it was later corrected. Smells like buyer beware. Looks like "They" need a lesson in marketing??.. Very poor!!!. Hardly customer satisfaction oriented.
  16. The Canik line and the SFX have a lot going for them. If your on a tight budget or just plain want a really great shooter? for a small expense consider them. They are very accurate, use Metalform mags (18, 20, 22 rounds with TF base pads). Carry Optics ready, and on and on...... and run like a clock. I've cut the stock recoil spring to 14#'s, use the Vortex Venom 6 moa red dot added the Freedom Arms trigger (stock is fine, FA just moves the action forward). $650/$700 total will do all this
  17. I've known Vic for years....He called me his 1st. sponsor. Many years ago, I gave him $20 for gas when he went to one of his early "big" match's. Mike Gregus
  18. Picture posted.... WHY, it's Nils.... Good choise Canik!!!
  19. I have the Taccom 5 1/2" w/aluminum shroud ,no comp.....Way early version w/ feed ramp. My opinion, the comp may make you feel better, that's about it. If I miss anything out to 100 yards??.... It's the "jerk" behind the trigger, not the gun. I have 2 other 9mm's... The 5 1/2 barrel points fastest (at least in my mind)...... Lighter=faster....
  20. I forgot to mention, I use a 6.5# Glock striker spring and the "cut" Canik set up (Glock spring cups also).Those little black devils go flying , so use the Caniks or the EZ to find Glock cups and orient them as per Glock instructions..... I have a few thousand rounds on this set up, Works 100%.... Just don't get too carried away when cutting the Canik spring..IT'S got to go back into battery when fired (NO AMMO) vertically (The Glock battery test) I don't use the Sprinco system anymore. The Caniks are VERY accurate... Just shot a USPSA local match, that use a bear trap activator on a fast closing clam sell set up... i was my usual slow self and only had a small head shot left.... Had to laff at myself , got 1 A & 2 C's on the head "0" on the white guy. .... The match director asked me... How little do I have to make the head shot area to be less visible????... (Joking)..The Freedom Arms trigger is a good upgrade BUT be mindful (for me) I feel that It just moves the trigger action a bit more forward .... That said I have the Freedom trigger on both my Canik's ..150 Acme bullet x 130 PF works great. I'm playing with both N320 & Titgroup... Either work just fine. Try the heaver bullets if you reload.. Less felt recoil (Always a personal preference)...
  21. it's simple to take apart (detailed in Canik forum.com )...... Canik uses a thread locker on the nose of the recoil rod...use vice grip pliers, to push spring down so you don't over-heat it. on flat surface or bench vise , lock pliers to guide rod, heat cap and remove it, , . Use the Glock in battery test for slide lock-up test..... I've said I think a Glock 14# recoil spring would be perfect but none available that I know of. The Glock gen 3 13# recoil setup with gen 4 adaptor sleeve would not always return to full lock up for me..... I used a bench grinder to remove 3 or 4 coils (SEE glock battery reset test)
  22. I use a c-more on my 929... My eyesight requires a "dot". I actively shoot USPSA (all guns used have "dots") BUT not in revolver as I NEED the "dot". I'm NOT even close to being competitive with a revolver in "open" class with a revolver! Ha, shooting ICORE this Sunday in "OPEN" class..... At least ICORE is home for revolvers... I really think I would shoot revolver in USPSA IF all revolvers were in one class. WE would probably have to have a "school" for the non-revo shooter's emphasizing "DON'T STEP ON THE MOON CLIPS". Poor eyesight is a handicap for many of us, the "dot" lets me compete where I normally couldn't......Pretty soon there would be a lot more "dot" revo's....Maybe the class would survive????...
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