CurlyShuffle
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Everything posted by CurlyShuffle
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Midwest Gun Works has Canik parts, though I don't know if they have those specific ones. It's worth a look.
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I recently saw on Facebook that Red Hill Tactical makes a holster that will accommodate the Odin folding thumb rest.
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The Taran Tactical +0 base pads work
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Powder recommendation for compensated gun?
CurlyShuffle replied to CurlyShuffle's topic in 9mm/38 Caliber
I guess I’ll try Power Pistol first. I still have a couple of hundred rounds left over that I loaded a few years ago. Maybe that POW can be put to good use. -
Powder recommendation for compensated gun?
CurlyShuffle replied to CurlyShuffle's topic in 9mm/38 Caliber
This would be for minor loads -
Hello, The conventional wisdom I have read up on and seen videos about indicates that in order to make the best use of the compensator on your handgun, you'll need a warmer load with a lighter weight bullet. That way the gun goes back down to zero faster. With that in mind I have 1k of 115gr 9mm Delta Precision FMJ bullets laying around that I'm looking for a load for. In doing some research so far, I'm wondering if either using HS-6 or Power Pistol might be good in this application? I do know in the past Power Pistol really has some blast in 9mm for me. They will be going through a P320 with a Faxon 4.6" threaded barrel and Herrington Arms Compensator. Which powders are more suited for compensated guns?
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I have 1K hi-tek 230gr coated bullets from MO Bullet company, specifically their "Softball-GT." I'm looking to use them in my prospective IDPA CDP gun, which is a full size Sig P320 in .45 ACP (4.7" barrel). Any powder recommendations for getting that bullet to the 165 power factor?
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I have a hard time justifying getting one based on that price.
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Now that integrally compensated and possibly factory compensated guns are now legal in some IDPA divisions, I'll have to give the Spectre Comp a look.
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I thought I'd post an update to this. I sent a message to Johnny Glock explaining my situation (I also had the Omega service on the trigger). What he suggested was to replace the connector with a stock connector. I replaced the connectors and sure enough, it's working just fine again. No appreciable difference in performance too, which is nice.
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Is there a bad batch of barrels out there? If I shoot factory ammo out of my P320s, I love the Federal Syntech 150gr. It shoots well for me in IDPA matches
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I believe it's the striker catching against the top of the Timney trigger insert. Pressing the trigger lowers the Timney bar low enough for the slide to be removed from the frame.
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Yes, either that or remove the backplate when the slide is back
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Hello, I don't know if anyone else has encountered this issue, but I currently can't field strip my Gen 5 Glock that has a Timney trigger without either removing the backplate or pressing the trigger while taking the slide off (takes a little hand dexterity). Anyway, I noticed that the silver bar at the top of the trigger housing that interacts with the trigger bar and striker is set too high. What could I possibly do to reduce that height and ease the field stripping process? Thanks!
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The Tactical Trigger P320 kit uses "sear engagement springs" to reduce the trigger creep.
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You can always ask Robert Burke directly about the Carry job. He is responsive to customers questions.
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Canik has released some new hotness lately (plus with the USPSA Carry Optics US champion using a Canik Rival), so I'm sure it has attracted some people to their platform. My P320s are staying put. They work well for me.
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Hello, I have a Gen 5 Glock 19 MOS and I decided to put a Holosun 507c on it. I got the appropriate Forward Controls Design plate for it and went about installing. During the installation, I got a bit confused on which screws to use for securing the Holosun to the plate. FCD's website states that their long screws don't work with the Holosun. I also discovered the long screws that come with the Holosun seem a bit too long as well. I settled on using a couple of the short screws that came with the Holosun to secure it to the FCD plate. Was that the right choice or are other screws needed?
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Has anyone installed the Sig Armorer C.O.R.E kit on one of their P320s yet? If so, which trigger are you pairing it with? Do you feel it makes a big difference?
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I just bought a 4.7" slide and barrel from Sig Sauer directly. I built a .40 Legion of sorts since I'm also using a TXG grip. I'm running with Gray guns internals and an Armory Craft trigger, though that AC trigger doesn't agree with my finger when shooting .40 (blister), so I'm going to change out the trigger.
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What might be the best option out there for P320 .40 magazines that would fit the USPSA 140mm gauge for limited? I'm thinking if it's similar to another post out there, I may go with the following: Sig 18 round 40 mag Grams magazine internals TTI baseplate for 21-round magazines (I would think it would work with .40 too) Is that my best bet, or are there any other options?
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Also look at the Tactical Trigger kit or the Apex forward set trigger bar if you're looking to reduce overall trigger travel distance.
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I got a chance to dry-fire a P320 with the Sig Armorer drop in kit earlier tonight after a match. It's nice, but I don't think it's $300 worth of nice. You can get similar performance with a combination of the Tactical Trigger kit (using the #1 springs and competition pre- travel stop) and the Armory Craft spring kit (using the lightest springs) for almost one third the price of the SA drop-in kit. Hopefully SA can get their economy of scale up so the price can be lowered.
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I wouldn't think so. The 48 lower is thinner
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I learned applying your own silicone carbide is easy (and much cheaper too)!