Jeff Phillips

Absolutely

I have used the now defunct master-blaster bullets which were a polymer coated bullet. That type of coating worked well, but left a lot of residue in the barrel. recently I have run several thousand bayou bullets. They ran well; however, they seemed to have some slight dimensional inconsistencies which forced me to case guage every round.

That is my understanding as well, but until the manufacturer says that on record, I still approach it with a little caution.

Or ball bungies

Another benefit to a 7' high wall made from 2x2's is that you have the ability to leave a vertical 2x2 stub protruding from the top which gives you a convient place to fasten the tops of adjacent walls together,

One labeling trick I discovered is to simply peel off the labels from the powder cans, cut them to size, and stick them to the powder hoppers. Makes identification a snap.

One thing that helped me early on is Was to define the what the trigger pull cycle looked like. Here is what I mean: usually when people talk about pulling the trigger the cycle goes prep, break, then reset. What I found works better is to think of it as break, reset, prep. By making the prep the last step in the cycle, I was able to train my self to minimize the chances of skipping the prep step. As you get faster the swell between prep and break goes almost to zero, but the simple mindset of a ending with the prep the. Allows you to put more attention on the brake which is what has the most influence on your accuracy. seems goofy, but it works.

I used to run a standard gas block, full mass rainier arms bolt/carrier, and standard carbine buffer with a rifle length gas system. last year I went all JP with the setup. Adjustable gas block, LMOS carrier, enhanced bolt, and silent captured recoil spring. The setup is absolutely amazing for recoil reduction and the JP carrier is super easy to clean. the one thing about running the rifle length gas system is that I am running the adjustable gas block nearly wide open. In my case, I don't think the adjustable block makes any difference.

I have 3 KKM barreled guns. Two in .45 and one in .355. They are my favorite and extremely accurate. They can be tight, but I have found the EGW case guage matches with them almost perfectly.

close, but more like this https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26 it says it has copper particles, but it is a dark gray color in the can. So far I haven't noticed any staining, but then I'm not too particular about it anyway as the brass brush I use for cleanup typically leaves a light gold color on the brake anyway. i have put it on the outside of the brake. I'm still experimenting with how much to use and am going fairly light as I don't want a gelatinous glob of goo inside the suppressor. i have done two range trips so far, and one light cleaning and am pleased, especially considering the alternative.

Agreed, the last thing you want is the goofy extra weight swinging around during a stage, or worse yet actually RINGING...... speaking from experience it kinda throws off your groove. ....or with my luck I'd put it in my back pocket and fall on it but then, the whole thing is slightly academic.....it's a company phone and that's what IT departments are for! :-)

I have shot 10's of thousands of Winchester primers without a single problem,but one recent quirk in the last couple of years is a slight dimensional difference between them and the CCI's. not enough to affect loading, but CCI LP run fine through a vibra-prime and WIN LP will not. At least with my specific one. i know this is more of a powder thread, but because primers are getting mentioned it is worth noting that there are other considerations in primer choice besides just powder/primer performance.

I just grabbed a can of the same stuff we use at work on flanges and bolts. Looks like it is called Bostik Never-Seez regular grade

Sheared a lug off of a bolt. It was one of the lugs next to the extractor. Don't recall if it was above or below. The failure wasn't match ending as it ran with the missing lug, but the broken lug got jammed in the barrel extension which ended the stage as the rifle couldn't go into battery.

So I have been having an awful time with my Surefire Socom 556SB sticking on the muzzle brake after shooting sessions. I'm not talking about a little resistance here, seriously stuck! I called Surefire and they had no real suggestions to offer. I had an epiphany in my shop the other day and grabbed a can of anti-seize, applied a light coating to the muzzle brake, and my problem has been solved. The stuff is rated for 1,800 degrees, so it should handle the temperature. Hopefully this suggestion may help someone else with a similar problem.

I agree, the crimp is often the culprit. Just go delicately as if you do it, even a hair, too much, your accuracy can go to hell. If you wanted a little more sensitive marking method, you could try smoking it as well, that is a much more sensitive coating than sharpie.

I agree that it should have been that simple; however, the SVI bow was a bit longer than the STI bow and I had trouble with the fitting. I gave up trying to make it work, and just swapped bows.

Honestly, I have never seen the lower 1/3 mount. I chose the full cowotness height for three reasons. 1 - A buddy bought one and it fit my head position well 2 - the height matches the optic on my 3 gun AR, so it made for consistency of cheek weld 3 - the goofiest reason is that it happens to be the same height as my PVS14 with a larue mount which means I can play with it in the dark. (Not all the reasons can be for hard core competition )

I have found the trigger length and shape to be fairly important. personally, if the trigger is too long I tend to push left, and too short, I pull it right. the curved triggers help me center my finger on the trigger better. The flat ones make the pull weight feel lighter for some reason.

It is pretty simple, but delicate. With a dremel you can cut the back of the SVI trigger loose from the bow. Be careful to only remove as little material as possible. I cut the crimp on just one side and wiggled the trigger bow out from the shoe. Then do the same thing to the STI trigger, but this is a bit easier because you don't care how badly you may screw up the trigger as all you need is the bow. grind the tips/tang of the STI bow to match the SVI bow, and slip the new bow into the SVI shoe. I then crimped the shoe around the bow. I have read elsewhere that people have added some JB Weld to ensure it will never come loose.

MRO with full cowitness base. Great field of view. Best red dot I've ever used.

231 is a stellar all around powder, and HP-38 is nearly (if not identical) the same. The only drawback is that it can be a little temperature sensitive. WSF is my fallback, but it is a bit dirtier.

Take the 226 and drop a SRT trigger in it, and it should actually run quite well.

2.74 single stack major rig, and 2.88 single stack minor rig. Both 10 yards from holster, hands straight down at sides.

I found that a nice wide thumb safety provides a shelf for your thumb. Once you learn to always index your thumb on the safety lever, it's a piece of cake and takes almost no thought. You should be in pretty good shape after 3 or 4 range sessions.