Gunmac

Thanks for the replies and the excellent thread. I think I will give the black sights a longer trial. If focusing on the top of the sight is not possible with a fiber optic insert than I see accuracy decreasing even though the speed may be quicker.

I installed a set of Dawson fiber optic fronts and an adjustable target rear on my Glock 34. Six months ago all was well. For the past four weeks I started using a 22 conversion on my Kimber 1911. The Kimber set up is a black target front and adjustable target rear. Very accurate set up and I have become reasonably quick to get on target. Now when I go back to the fiber optic on the Glock I can only see the dot and cannot pick up the top of the front sight. Accuracy has dropped off also. I did try to turn off the overhead lights at the range where the front optic becomes black. Accuracy did return and felt much more comfortable getting on target. For those of you that use a fiber optic set up do you use the top of the sight or the fiber optic element? Which would be the better set up for IDPA style competition? Thanks, Tom

Thanks for the explanations. I can better understand the trajectory responses now. Just when I thought I was getting the hang of this stuff I see there is much more to learn. Back to the range for more practice.

I want to be sure I understand the answer. For my 147 g 9 mm loads (130 pf = 885 ft/sec) for typical IDPA distances sighting in at 25 feet if done correctly should be fine. One individual mentioned an arc and some disagree. I did not understand why a bullet will climb after firing. Even if I screw up the recoil control will the muzzle lift fast enough to cause an arc in the path or will I only get a downward arc?

I have been sighting in my handguns at 25 feet since that is a distance I can see a target clear enough to aim accurately. At 50 feet the target is not clear and precise aiming is tough. The question I have is within what distance does a bullet maintain level travel? If I sight it in at 25 feet how far can I expect to shoot to point of aim? At some point I realize I will need to aim higher to compensate for the bullet falling but I am not clear what that distance is.

Thanks for the responses. It usually takes a few months for me to decide if I like or dislike a pistol. So I may need to add the Sig to the collection which is not a bad thing. There is always the Glock 34 to fall back on.

I have a Glock 34 and there is little I can complain about. Plenty of after market accessories, durable, simple construction, eats all ammo without complaint and goes bang every time I pull the trigger. The only thing that bugs me is the grip. Doesn't quite fit my hand. Even tried some Hogue Handalls and still just okay. The last trip to the range some one had a Sig 226 that I tried. Unlike the Glock grip that I need to hold pretty tight my hands felt locked to the Sig. The Glocks seem to rule IDPA in my area and you seldom see Sigs in SSP. Even at the national level again it is Glock with very few Sigs. So the questions I have are: Where aren't the Sigs more popular in competition? Should the grip feel dictate the choice between two quality pistols? I am considering adding a Sig to the collection but wanted to understand why the Sig is not as popular as some of the other makes. Thanks, Tom

Thanks. I will give the grip tape a try.

The one thing I don't like about my Glock 34 is that the grip size is a little small for my hands. I was going to try one of the slip on grips but wanted to know is there anything else to increase the size ? My guess is that with all the adjustable grip panels on the polymers now it is only time before Glock will need to do the same.

I had a similar problem in the past with 9 mm cases. My problem was the shell plate was too loose. I needed to tighten the bolt a little more to reduce the play in the brass. A little more lube in the case mouth may also help.

I have a scale/dispenser combo from PACT which is working well. Do I have problems with the scale down the road? Tom

Mike: The PACT IR units and indoor lighting has come up several times in the past. You may want to look at this thread: Chrono Indoor Light Issues Tom

I believe Novak makes one for the M&P. There only polymer I have is a Glock so I have no idea how easy it is to install. Extreme Duty Adjustible Sights

I shoot at an indoor range and have had little success with a IR unit. I bought a prochrono digital unit and an indoor attachment and it has read every shot fired across the sensors. I do not use any other shields on the unit. ProChrono Digital Indoor Light Set Up

I think Michael Bane once said on Shooting Gallery that Jerry has the best hands in the business. Whatever is the reason I have always enjoyed watching the master and hope he continues to compete for many years to come. Gives us older guys some respect.

I have never met the man and don't understand how a 55+ year old stays on top of the competition. I am in the same age group with my eye sight fading and reflexes slowing down. Jerry on the other hand beats all challengers with ease. Does he have some unique physical characteristics to account for his dominance? Tom

Sorry to keep bringing this thread back to life. I installed the SDM FO with the Millet rear. Those SDM are bright!! In fact they are so bright I have a difficult time picking up the top of the sight which is costing me accuracy. The Dillon Precision sights on my Glock have a much smaller FO element which allows me to pick up the sight quickly and use the top of the front sight to aim. Are most of you using the FO only to aim or can you still see the top of the front sight to align the front and rear ? Thanks, Tom

I am ready to order the SDM sights for the 686. A few questions - .250 or .300 inches? I would like to keep the same holster for the 686 so I was leaning toward the .300 inches. What size drift punch is needed to remove the front sight? Do the SDM sights come pre drilled? If not should I use the same size drill as the drift punch or something different? Thanks, Tom

I will keep working on it. Two years ago I thought all there was to shooting was aim and pull the trigger. I am quickly learning that there is a great deal of skill separating the class shooters from the plinker I had become. Thanks for the tips.

First of all I need bifocals and the prescription to see the front sights are ground into the upper part of my shooting glasses. When I shoot my 617 or 22 conversions on my Kimber and Glock I can see the sights lift and return. When I shoot the Glock 34 or Beretta the sights disappear but I can see them return. The lift is a blur. The amount of lift is either faster or higher and out of my focus view. Can you actually see the sights lift when using non 22 caliber ammo? Can you train to see the sights lift? Does the lifting and return follow the same path? This may be important since seeing the return would provide the same input as seeing the lift. Tom

I now have a ProChrono Digital with the indoor light set up. The last outing it read 25 for 25 under indoor lights. The ProChrono is a little different than other units since the lights are in a cardboard set up which forms a roof over the chronograph. It seems pretty consistent. If down the road it is reading high and can change the loads to compensate. Only drawback is the unit is self contained (unlike the Shooting Chrony) and can meet an unexpected death from a stray bullet.

revchuck you know your stuff. I tried the 90-TWO off a rest with the adjustable sights I got from Beretta and the 147 grain Berrys shot higher than the 124 grain (which was higher than the 115 grain). The adjustable sights solved the problem and the Beretta is very accurate. Once you get by the first trigger pull and release to reset the gun is pretty nice. For those who are interested the sights Beretta sent are LPA and this is how they look:

I was looking at the S&W website and the 625 4" model is not listed (only the JM model). If you want to go ESR in IDPA with a Smith is the JM model the only option ?

A little update on my situation which may be helpful to others. Beretta does make an adjustable sight for the 90-TWO. I ordered it and will give it a try. The Beretta individual I spoke to also recommended moving to a heavier bullet. He said that no accuracy check of the pistols during manufacture is done with the 115 g bullets and I would be better off with either a 124 or 147 g bullet.

Changing loads/bullets - I have been using 115 g bullets. I have both 124 and 147. Wouldn't the heavier bullet drop even further or at 50 feet will all bullets travel straight? It is worth a try and I will make some up. Changing the site height - Does this mean replacing or grinding down? Accessories for the 90-two seem hard to find. Is this something that could be done with a hand file (a little at a time) ?