D. Manley

A 9MM case fits the hole better and you can just leave it and let them drop into the cup (which, with the additional "chute", they will) or as you said, put a PVC lead tube to a disposal jug or trash can. As stated above, cut off the case head, put a series of short, lenght-wise cuts into the cut end and fold them flat at 90 degrees to make the flange that will hold it in place. Remove the bracket (that holds the catch bin), insert your new extended tube through the spent cartridge hole and replace. The 9MM "extension tube" should extend deep enough into the catch bin that misses are few to none. FWIW, I placed the cut "flanges" on an anvil and tapped them perfectly flat & square for a better "sandwich fit" between the frame and the catch bin bracket...with only the thickness of the brass, there's virtually no gap. A lot easier than it sounds...

For just range use I like 3.9 grains Clays under 230 plated (Ranier) @ 1.26 and 4.3 grains N-310 under 185 JHP (MG or Zero) @ 1.20. Lots of good loads, .45 is easy to load for and my G-21 eats about anything I stuff in it.

I've seen where they break from time to time but I've not had a problem with mine...and I keep it pretty tight. I do make sure it's kept well greased on the underside, though.

Any pretty well said, spot-on, opinions at that. Congratulations.

If you're using new brass, this is a common problem and will pretty well disappear once fired. Some people find tumbling new brass with a little additive for a while helps out. If it's happening with fired brass, take the powder funnel out and polish the expander tip well. Some people use a "Scotchbrite" pad for this...I use "Flitz" and a Dremel tool to put a smooth, chrome-like finish on mine. I've also found that a coating of dry lube seems to help as well. FWIW, this is the type of lube you spray on, let dry to a haze and wipe off. It's available at most HW stores, contains no oils and leaves no residue.

The more manuals, the better IMO. Of the lot, Sierra is the one I tend to use most...more different powders tested and more velocity windows listed. As with other, good manuals Sierra list the firearm and barrel length used as well.

And works even better on the Strong-Mounted bullet tray putting them right beside station #3 where they're headed. I reduce hand movement even more by using a 550 size acro-bin for bullet catch and mount my empty case bin on the side of it at a right angle putting them at station #1. Seems little subtle things just make the whole process smoother.

I just sent John an email as well. Interesting little tool, looks to me like it would be at least as fast as running cases through the U-Dies on a turret or single stage and have the advantage of sizing the case head area where required.

I'd add another or two on the "use with caution" label. I'm seeing more and more of the "NNY" and "PPU" brass which, may well actually be one and the same. I've heard that Privi Partisan actually makes the Academy Sports "Monarch" brand so that might explain why we're getting so much of it locally since there's a new Academy in town. I've seen a few horror stories on this stuff bandied about that don't inspire much confidence in it's quality.

Hmmm...sounds like some just plain bad dies are getting through. I have them for 9MM, .40, .45 and .38/.357 and (knock on wood) have had nothing but good results over several thousand rounds in each caliber. Although it may not be the "proper" thing to do, I've had all mine in a turret head since day one with the dies low enough they get a firm "bump" from the shellholder on the breakover...so far, nothing but perfect results and no damage to the dies.

I don't think you'll find anyone that's ever seen detonation in a pistol round...frankly, I'm skeptical that it even exists. Large, bottleneck rifle rounds, maybe but from what I've read, even there it's very difficult to reproduce under controlled conditions.

I saw the same thing and wondered about it too. IIRC, the same guy had other SDB's he's selling intact. Thing is, I wonder if he reloads at all lest he'd surely know about Dillon's "No B.S." warranty and anyone needing that stuff could have it with a phone call. The prices for the used, individual parts delivered closely mimic Dillon's replacement prices for new stuff.

My routine is similar except, for final tuning I'll throw 10-charges and average. Yes, it takes a bit longer to set up but youmight be surprised how consistent the measures can be when finely dialed in. Once I get a couple of 10-throw averages "spot-on" I don't bother to check again until after 100 rounds (primer fill) or, if I get interrupted for some reason. Following this model with a variety of powders its very rare to check a single throw and find it off at all and even then, never more than a tenth.

Of course if you sell it now, you'll have to deal with the bad karma later..... I've got an old 550 purchased in '87 and heavily used for many years. Unfortunately, it has also be neglected (just not used) for more than 5 years now. I've now retired and getting back into shooting and reloading. In the process of getting reacquainted with my press, I've discovered the left link arm is stiff, and the more i move it the stiffer it gets. In reading the many informative post here I’m convince the pin is galling. Should i try to repair this myself, or send it back. If you recommend sending it back, what parts would you send (i.e. the powder measure too) and where would you recommend finding a box sturdy enough to secure the press without all that fancy Styrofoam that things are shipped in? Thanks for you advice LTC I'd call Dillon, explain the problem and go from there. If you choose to send it in for a re-build, just box it up in a suitably sized cardboard box packed in whatever you have on hand...crumpled newspaper worked for me. They will tell you what to include when they issue a return number...normally, complete press with one caliber conversion minus, the locator buttons. FWIW, Dillon will return it in a factory box.

That's pretty much my thoughts too. AFAIK, the Hirtenberger stuff is pretty stiff subgun ammo not intended for handgun use. Depending on what it was fired in, I wouldn't think a few splits would be unexpected.

Of course if you sell it now, you'll have to deal with the bad karma later.....

Montana Gold 185 Grain JHP 4.3 grains N-310 Federal 150 Primer OAL: 1.208 | Crimp: .471

FWIW, I load some powder puff loads with 4.0 grains Solo-1000 under 115's. Cycles a G-35 with 15 Lb. spring just fine, never tried it with stock 17 Lb. Very soft, quiet load with decent accuracy.

I was poking around the Dillon site tonight and remembered the springs. They're no longer shown on the parts schematic but are still there. Below is from the SDB but no matter, they're all the same:

The SD is a terrific (and somewhat underated) little press. Price for a used one is going to depend on a lot of things but IMO, should not exceed 80% of a new one. That said, you can usually find one for a much better deal with a little digging. They're constantly on eBay and other auction sites, Craiglist, etc. Occasionally you can snag an older one that's pretty well worn for a ridiculously low price, box it up and send to Dillon for a flat-rate rebuild and have a press that's essentially as good as new. Figure your purchase price, your 1-way shipping charge and $39.95 for the rebuild on a deal like this and compare with other machines that are already in good "ready-to-go" state.

Try again, just tell him you want to order the springs. As of a few weeks ago, they had 'em, I bought some myself to have around "just in case".

Dillon still has them available, just no longer catalogued. Just give 'em a call and ask.

Congratulations, I know the feeling. What else can you say?, great products, great people, great company!

+1. I have 9MM, .40, .45 & .38/.357 U-Dies set up on a little-used LCT for just that. I don't mind the extra step, surprising how many little nasties you weed out with a 2nd look. Almost worth the extra effort, they run through the Dillon like butter and since I've been doing it, not one single reject.

+1. I don't know what some of its coming from but it ain't Glocks. Exactly. I use 'em on all range pickups as "insurance"...nice for peace of mind on setback and as you said, particularly on .40 caliber. A nice little thing to have around but after all, they're just a little tighter version of a plain, Lee carbide die. They do not size any lower on the case than the plain vanilla Lee sizer but do go a bit lower than some others especially, those intended primarily for use on progressives.