D. Manley

I run the 115 MG JHP @ 1.10...fine in all my Glocks. Work your load up but this is well under published max load with Power Pistol. PP has a lot of muzzle flash and noise but is actually a pretty forgiving powder.

Since that knob is fixed to the threaded adjustment bolt, its the bolt thats turning and whatever is on the end should have nothing to do with it. If you are using the new style PM (without return springs), might try removing the insert tab...it serves no purpose without the springs. Lee Love (Uniquetek) told me he has had only one instance of his micrometer bar moving and the cause was traced to the spring insert tab making contact with the threads during operation. It can either be removed or, slicked up with a file or emery and left on.

6.0 / 6.4 grains (with 6.2 being the "sweet spot") provides very good 25 yard groups in my guns...YMMV.

I've found S&B to actually be good stuff (the real brass ones, that is) except for, the tight pockets. I bump them with the Dillon Super Swage to break that sharp edge and they're slick as glass after that.

I've got a strong little magnet embedded in a dowel rod I keep on by brass prep table for just that. FWIW, I ran several through, loaded and shot 'em before I found out what was up. What finally tipped me was priming...pockets are tight on all S&B but on these, most are next to impossible to seat completely.

Just pick a bullet with a similar profile and which has the C.O.F. listed from one of your manuals...should be plenty close enough for software purposes on handgun rounds.

Your routine with the U-Die seems very much like mine and like you, I find that they just slide through the Dillon when actually loading. I've been following your thread on the new Redding offering and based on your results, I think I may just "stay with what works". Since prepping this way I don't believe I've had a single round fail to gauge after loaded so this may be one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" deals.

The cause of this has long since been identified as bullet setback due to frequent chamber cycling of defensive rounds. Most departments are now aware of the risks of repeated cycling and the problem has all but disappeared. I might add that just because its factory ammuntion it's a mistake to think the quality cannot be suspect. I have seen things come out of pristine factory ammo boxes that no self-respecting reloader would have cranked out much less, actually dared to fire.

Get rid of the extended slide release. Replace it with a stock version. Hear me now...believe me later. Other than that...search through the Glock section here. All of your questions have been asked and answered...a lot. +2...no matter what, I'll "thumb" that sucker sooner or later. Other than a little trigger work the only add-on I prefer in my longslides is the extended tungsten rod. I like the forward balance and ease of spring changes with the additional length but hey, that's just me.

Yep. Just turing the loaded cartridge in the jaws can make that much difference sometimes.

Hmmm... Guess I'm odd man out. I run 9MM, .40 and .45 CBC (Magtech) brass through my guns with no issues and yes, I case gauge every round. Honestly I can't tell any difference in it from domestic brands, loading it or shooting it. I do size on a U-Die nowadays but even before, had no issues with it.

Might wanna' check & see if you've got a little crud built up in the seating stem.

Jeez, what horrible service...how dare they only paint the frame.... Dillon's unbelievable...there's a reason they're on the top of the game. Congratulations on your "new" press.

I've spent the entire day setting up the spreadsheets for the powder I have on hand. I'm using Open Office software and having never used Excel, there's been a steep learning curve for me. My micrometer use has been limited to "once in a blue moon" so initially, I had to "think" a bit to ensure the settings but that's coming along. Managed to get sheets all headed out for each powder and fully completed my 5 favorites. I'm embarrassed to say I'd completely overlooked one of the neatest features of Lee's spreadsheet template. That is, once the data is all entered and the auto-computations done, there is a little stand-alone field where you simply enter the desired charge and, the micrometer setting magically appears...very neat. With the limited time actually playing with it today, it seems 100% repeatable but it will take time to see how it does in the long run with diffferent powders. I can see now that it will reduce setup times substantially though...should only take just a few throws to dial in any desired charge.

I'm really liking it so far. It bothered me a bit being so easy to turn and I left it in a drawer for a year or so before installing it. Never crossed my mind to use the tape "shim"....kicking my own butt for waiting so long to explore it a bit. The Mr. Dials are pretty decent in their own right but eliminating all backlash and being able to record settings is really sweet.

Truthfully, I've used both brands and were it me I'd use an old (or a cheapo) single stage for this. I've not used one on a 550 and though it "might not" stress the shellplate more than a real sticky piece of brass coming off the expander funnel, seems like a real waste of a toolhead. Shucks, you can even buy the low-end Lee SS for the price of a puller & collet. FWIW, I prefer the Hornady Cam-Lock between the two.

Just to revive this rather old thread... After having my Uniquetek Micrometer powder bar for some time now and never installed, I finally got around to it today. I called Lee and mentioned to him my concerns about how easy it is to turn and asked what he thought about it. He said he'd only had one instance of the device which wouldn't hold its setting and that was caused by the powder bar return spring insert making contact with the micrometer stem moving it under repetitive action. He went on to say that what he does to put a little more smooth tension is add a small strip of vinyl tape on the non-readable side of the micrometer. Hmmm... I had some vinyl tape and cut a piece that would go over most of the stem's diameter but would not cover the full "read width". I backed the micrometer full open, put the tape on the back side and began closing the micrometer over the vinyl tape "shim". I continued to tighten the micrometer until I reached the point where it was opened more than the largest charges I ever use. Stopped there and trimmed the remaining exposed tape cleanly with an Exacto knife and continued closing over the tape. Bottom line, the vinyl shim puts a firm, smooth tension on the micrometer adjustment and with nothing exposed, its a very neat job. I have no idea how long it will last but I suspect, quite a while...If it does need replacing, it can be done mounted and just takes a minute to do. Thought I'd pass it on....

Good groups with the plated bullets? That range should really nice for .40 if it shoots good, I like 3.4 under 147's in 9MM and it's proven to be suprisingly accurate.

Does this happen when no brass is present?

Anybody using S-1000 for Minor using plated or jacketed 180 grain bullets? I searched and did'nt see anything on plated/jacketed using it but works well in 9MM and .45 so why not .40?

Might want to email them and request the data. FWIW, below is what they sent me: Caliber: .40 S&W. Barrel length: 4” Powder: Accurate – Solo 1000. Bullet weight: 135 grains. Start load: 4.8 grains (1100 – 1200 ft/p/sec) Maximum load: 5.3 grains (1175 – 1275 Ft/p/sec). Bullet weight: 155 grains. Start load: 4.3 grains (900 – 1000 ft/p/sec) Maximum load: 4.8 grains (1000 – 1100 Ft/p/sec). Bullet weight: 165-170 grains. Start load: 4.2 grains (850 – 925 ft/p/sec) Maximum load: 4.6 grains (950 – 1050 Ft/p/sec). Bullet weight: 180 grains. Start load: 4.0 grains (825 – 875 ft/p/sec) Maximum load: 4.5 grains (900 – 950 Ft/p/sec). Bullet weight: 200 grains. Start load: 3.7 grains (800 – 850 ft/p/sec) Maximum load: 4.1 grains (875 – 920 Ft/p/sec).

Another happy Dillon Super-Swage user but, I can't help but wonder if there isn't something else wrong. I can't imagine having to do anything to regular Winchester brass, I've found it very easy to prime. I did read a post somewhere about Winchester "subbing out" some cartridge work to S&B (which, DOES have tight pockets) some time ago so, maybe it was true...?

"CLICK"...just in case you've missed it elsewhere.

No worries, that FedEx guy will have checked it out thoroughly for you by the time it comes back around....

That's grounds for divorce in some states.....