Obvious
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Posts posted by Obvious
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1 minute ago, rowdyb said:
The barrel can't properly tilt without it
I appreciate your clarification! So if the bushing needs to have that cutout then wouldn’t there be issues installing a CGW bushing? Those seem to completely round and don’t have that chunk missing
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12 minutes ago, rowdyb said:
A small crescent cut out at the 6 position?
Do you know why that happens? Is this bushing thinner there or does the barrel wear against the bushing more in that area?
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45 minutes ago, MuayThaiJJ said:
Mine did not have a chunk missing. I removed them on my CZ75, SP01, TS1, and TSO.
Now im even more confused. I just tried to scrape at it with a brass pick and it very lightly scratched the metal in that bore. I can't feel a height difference running over it with a metal pick, im almost wondering if the bushing broke and whats inside the bore is actually a scratch/small gouge down to parent metal instead of the striations all around the rest of the bore from the bushing. Looked around my work area though and didn't see a chunk of the bushing on the floor. May just lightly polish the bore and install the new bushing when it arrives.
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1 minute ago, yigal said:
That's how it should be. But if you took it out, then put a new one.
so that bushing is supposed to be missing that chunk? the 10x ones on CGW look like theyre solid all around
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1 minute ago, MuayThaiJJ said:
Are you putting a new smaller bushing in there to tighten the lockup? I would think you would need to punch out that leftover piece
Not worried about the lockup, but wanted the slide completely stripped so I could send it off to be nitrided. Barrel bushing needed to come off for that and I don’t see a point in reusing it so it’s gonna get replaced
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alright fellas hoping the more experienced folks here can take a look. Today I took out my TSO and P-01 barrel bushing. P-01 came out fine, but I had to freeze the slide on my TSO for a bit to get it to move. When it finally popped out the bushing looks like it had a chunk missing, and the bushing bore looks like it has a small sliver left in it. However when I run across it with a scribe I can’t feel a height difference. Is this normal or do I need to find a way to get that bit out of there? Not sure how to do this without potentially gouging the bore with a metal implement.
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17 minutes ago, ColoradoNick said:
Have you heard of Knees Over Toes guy? Might be worth checking him out if not.I have. I’ve been in physical therapy for a while and the stability of the joint just doesn’t give me confidence it won’t give out while under intense movements. Appreciate you trying though!
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On 9/26/2023 at 6:33 PM, Runswithwood1 said:
Ugh that sucks. Nothing like making progress for life to happen huh? Well, how long of a recovery does that generally take?
Gonna be looking at about a year for full recovery, give or take a month, to be able to get back to the level of movement that USPSA demands
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Well been working my ass off in PT and have come to a spot where the muscle strength is where it needs to be but theres still consistent pain. Having surgery in December to replace my ACL and repair the meniscus. Looks like matches have been put on hold for another year or so. PLENTY of time for dry fire and to reload ammo and stash it deep so I won't have to worry about that when I get cleared for matches again.
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On 6/2/2023 at 4:16 PM, SufferInSilence said:
Did you make GM?
Lol nope, having to take a break
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3 minutes ago, yigal said:
Check that there are no chips in the corners of the slide rails . A friend bought one new and some slide chips on rough places eaten the frame rails less than 4 k.
Mine got way rustier than it should’ve been, I had it sand blasted yesterday and today I’m sanding/filing all the pitting out of it. I’ll give the rails a good look and potentially hit them with 600 grit, but I’ve got 2K rounds through it already and everything’s held up great so far.
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1 hour ago, rowdyb said:
From the Atals tuning thread pinned, you can make some good inferences for a TS
It’s been a minute since I looked but I only remember him tinkering with regular 75’s. I’ll check it out again though
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Have my TSO frame and slide completely stripped. Plan on replacing the front sight pin and a couple rusty screws. May send the slide off to impact machine for the knurling. I'm 100% satisfied with the gun, but figured I hopefully won't have it down to nothing like this again for a long time so might as well do what I can. Are there any notable areas to polish, or parts to add that make a significant difference?
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Just now, ltdmstr said:
I wouldn't use sanding drums as you'll probably change the contour of the pieces and it'll look like crap. Best to lightly hand sand with fine grit paper then polish with scotchbrite. Not sure if H&M will do the prep but you can call or email and ask.
I was gonna start with sand paper and emery boards for the flat sections and see how it goes. Pitting is in an area I might even be able to machine away for a slide racker. Seems like minor pitting so hopefully it goes quickly and easily
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1 minute ago, ltdmstr said:
I'd bead blast the exterior then send it to H&M for black nitride finish. Cost $250 for the complete gun and turn around is usually a couple weeks.
Honestly that’s super reasonable on the price. I ordered some different grit sanding drums to hopefully lightly get rid of the pitting, but don’t have any bead blasting equipment. Can they bead blast in house?
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20 hours ago, kuletchi1 said:
With no disrespect, I would just sell it as is and buy a new one. Too many things probably needs to be changed both inside and out. Sad part will be the slide to frame fit.
None taken, however I don’t think CZ is even selling the TSO anymore. I think there’s a TS2 now? Not sure.
anyways, I don’t think it’s exactly economical to just essentially throw the gun away and start over. I’ve already removed nearly all the rust with steel wool and some brass brushes. There is some light pitting in none essential areas I’ll be blending and smoothing this weekend with dremel and sand paper. Thankfully all the internals were well lubed and it looks like none of the rust traveled to the slide internals, just a bit at the very front of the frame. There is some light pitting on the frame rails at the front, but it doesn’t look very deep and I don’t think lightly blending 1-2” of material there will drastically effect slide fitment.
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TSO sat around unknowingly to me in a wet bag for a month. Pretty rusty, working on cleaning it up but would be more comfortable sending it out to get sand blasted to ensure all rust is removed, and then re-coated with a more durable finish. So, 2 questions.
What would you consider the best finish (in terms of rust resistance and abrasion resistance)?
where would you send it to be refinished?
im considering sending it to impact machine for some slide work and to be nitrided at the same time, but I’d still need the frame to be refinished as well. Please drop any suggestions you have!
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Holy crap what a turn of events. I've finally graduated from college, will be starting my actual engineering job soon. However I have a small tear in my LCL, and have had to slow down on basically everything. Waiting on an orthopedic surgeon to schedule a time for a consultation on what my path forward is, but for probably the next few months I won't be shooting any matches. Going to be focusing on reloading to build up my stockpile so I can shoot more when I'm fully rehabbed, and potentially building a polymer 80 glock 17 size gun into a carry optics setup. Other than that, I guess I got plenty of time to dry fire now. Not sure what else I'll be doing moving forward. Feels weird having free time but not being to spend it out on the range...
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22 hours ago, open17 said:
N320-- more because I use it in 9 minor and I shoot a lot more 9 than 40.
I am a bit curious about the OP "burning through roughly 7,000 rounds using a pound of E3". Wasn't aware that a 1.0 gr charge of E3 would make major.
Lmao you’re right, got my numbers mixed up in my head. Experimented with a lot of powders before settling on E3. I’ve done about 7000 reloads for .40, and with my current charge of 3.7 grains E3 it should be a smidge below 2000 rounds for a pound
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33 minutes ago, scooterj said:
I use both N320 and WST. If I didn’t tell you the difference, you probably wouldn’t notice. The biggest difference is the smell.
WSF is the slower burning closer to N340, and WST is a bit faster like N320 right? I might grab a pound of WST to play with if it’s so close to N320 for half the price around me.
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It's been a year since my last post here looking for recommendations and I feel I've learned and tried a good bit. I've mostly settled on 180 grain bullets in the "whatevers cheapest" category, but I do think I prefer blue bullets. I've burned through roughly 7,000 rounds using a pound of E3. It gave an recoil impulse I didn't mind and that i got used to, but after looking at the burn rate charts its like number two for fastest burning powder. I'm curious what you guys have found "pleasant" to shoot while still making major PF. As I understand it, faster burning powders are much more spikey and will create a sharper recoil impulse while slower burning powders spread that out over a bit more time. I've tried titegroup and I'm not a fan of how filthy it makes the gun, and some of my matches are indoors which creates too much smoke. N320 is pretty pricey, last I paid was $65 for 1# locally. I'm experimenting with WSF in my 9mm loads and might try them in .40, but curious to see what others here like.
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17 minutes ago, dillon said:
Could be a combination of primer cup dimensions and primer pocket wear as well. To rule out cup spring wear, measure the height from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the primer cup. On the 550 machines, this should be 1.215-1.220"
As best as I can measure mine is around 1.240”, take it apart, clean, and reassemble until it gets to the correct depth?
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Thought this might be the best place to ask this, I used to be able to distinctly feel my primers seat in my pistol brass. Not quite a crunch, but I’d feel the resistance of them insert and bottom out. After tear down and cleaning, I no longer feel this but I’ve also run out of the previous brand of primers. Is this primer specific or did I not tighten something enough? Currently the primer insertion method just feels mushy the whole way through and I’m not sure if I seated it correctly unless I check it.
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I just wanna post a small update, I’ve gotten some chalk balls from the brand spider chalk and I like them a good bit. Felt great in dry fire. It doesn’t leave your hands aggressively grippy like I’ve felt pro grip does but makes them nice and dry
TSO half circle barrel bushing gouge
in CZ
Posted
Appreciate your insight. Not too worried about it anymore. Will lightly polish the bore with some 800 and 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper, then send it off to get coated. Thought it was weird as first but seems like it may just be normal-ish.