Bunnies4r5

it isn’t the new one it’s the OG tac sport with the silver frame what brand 2011s would be in the range that would be worthwhile?

I just figured this TS would be the cheapest entry point to limited beside another Glock which don’t get me wrong I live glock, I shoot my G34 in carry optics very well I just figured if I am gonna jump into limited I’d like something a bit nicer and geared specifically towards limited. the 2011 game just seems even more complicated then the CZ, the mags being back ordered is a problem I wasn’t aware of but will certainly make for something else to consider the 2011s just seems so expensive if the guy above me is right and these TS would run me 800-950 I don’t think I have seen even used 2011s for that but honestly when it comes to 2011s I don’t really no where to start except the big names like atlas that I just can’t justify i have seen the more used TS and the slide doesn’t show much wear, the front of the frame shows carbon and finish wear but the slide looks pretty good still. if my money would be better spent on a 2011 what should I be looking for on the used market one thing that makes me shy away from the 2011 is knowing which mags work best in which guns and also what followers, it just seems like the 2011 guys are cleaning their mags half way through a match seems kind of like a pain. I don’t have much frame of reference though as I always figured CZ was what I could actually afford. I also don’t reload so if he relying on factory ammo in my g34 I use syntech, so if I get into limited .40 I’d be looking for some decent factory competiton loads. My buddy who is selling the TS is a reloader but has said that factory ammo runs just fine. He is gonna give me a box of 50 factory ammo when he lends it to me

really appreciate it he said the trigger pull is about 3lb maybe a little less, coming from glock and having felt how light the TSO trigger is, imagine the trigger with the work done by czc should be good to go i believe it also has the CGW hammer but I’ll check, he is friends with the owner of CGW as well lol, he knows everybody, it’s kinda crazy the parts you mentioned seem to be suggested upgrades yea? Are those also the parts I’d want to keep on hand as spares if something breaks? If not what spares would I want just spares of, hammer spring, TRS, and Sear Spring?

Hey guys, I am very intrested in getting into limited so I can practice Iron sights more and also intrested in getting a nice hammer fired gun as every handgun I own right now is Glock my buddy has 2 matching cz tac sport .40 for sale, the only difference between the 2 is one has a nitro fin thumb rest and the other does not have the fin and has a lot less rounds through it he has friends at cz custom so both have cz custom worked on triggers. he is willing to sell me either of them, the one with the nitro fin is pretty well used as it was his main competition gun, the other has not been used barely at all. Both have adjustable sights neither of them will come with any magazines he is keeping one for himself so he needs his 5 mags that have cz custom baseplates with aftermarket spring and follower to increase round count questions 1. What would a ball park fair price be on the higher round count one with the nitro fin and what would be a fair price on the newer one without fin and low round count (keep in mind, both Come with 0 mags) 2. how much are 5 mags gonna cost with czc baseplates and the springs follower that are gonna get me to 20rds or 21, whatever the going count it 3. what spare parts are essential to have on hand for these older tac sports, do they have any parts like the shadow 2 that have a lower life expectancy? Are the parts still available? 4. Should I just buy a tactical sport orange? I assume buying from my buddy is gonna be significantly cheaper but I am kinda bummed on the no mags thing. He is gonna let me borrow the gun with mags and a belt to give it a go and make sure I like it but I have a feeling I am gonna like it really appreciate your guys help

Hi guys, I have someone in my USPSA league telling me the blade tech double mag pouches where it is 2 pouches that hold 1 mag each side by side on 1 unit are not legal for CO. I bought them to run my g43x for practice and the rule book is not very clear. it says each mag must be on its own pouch which technically the blade tech is one per pouch but both pouches are on the same unit can someone clarify if this is CO legal or not? appreciate it pouch in question: https://blade-tech.com/products/signature-double-mag-pouch?variant=8666097516634&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping&currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-cy9OImLFbPWIc6WaSpU55Ap_NfGne0HbpQH_KCidabZZpz_s9Pq-zhoC0sQQAvD_BwE

Appreciate all the tips guys, I have gotten it pretty well down, been shooting b class scores lately just need to hit a classifier or a couple events. I got Steve Anderson’s book which has helped a lot

Just an update for anyone who cares, the one thing I failed to try was just replacing the entire trigger housing instead of the individual components, that was the solve. Don’t ask me how but replacing the entire housing with another one of Johnny’s (which is OEM with a overtravel screw) solved the problem completely. if anyone wants to take a stab at figuring out why the housing was the solve im all ears. I didn’t replace the return spring in that problem housing but I did remove and examine it and ensure it was installed properly so I don’t think it had anything to do with it but maybe. the first symptom that clued me into a problem was when racking the slide the first half inch or inch had more resistance then normal, you could also feel a bit of movement in the trigger shoe when the slide would unlock, much more then would be normal, switching housings alleviated all of that as well as the reset problem

Yea I fear that is the case here, my only option would be to pay $100 for a frame replacement through glock. johnny said he has been seeing anomalies like never before since they are so behind on manufacturing.

we have gone over everything, he has sent me a replacement trigger and it does the same thing. I’m pretty experienced with the gen 5 I have checked over every component step by step. At this point I think something in the frame is out of spec, I can take this same trigger and put it in 2 different frames and it works just fine

I have done this, with all OEM parts it works. Even with all OEM parts and a overtravel screw it works. Part by part it stops working with any Johnny glock trigger bar which is an OEM trigger bar. but it happens with all 3 of his bars, they also have a flat face aluminum shoe. I think there is a frame tolerance issue causing the bar to flex and because they have a metal shoe instead of a polymer there is no give in the shoe so it hangs up somewhere those same jg trigger bar and shoes work fine in all my other glocks

Hello,I want to start by saying I am a Glock armorer and know at least the gen 5 intimately. I am having an issue where my trigger bar does not pop all the way up if the trigger is held to the rear of the gun. I am using a standard 5.5 connector, Johnny glock polished and stoned OEM trigger that works just fine in 2 other guns. gen 5 g45 frame and gen 5 g19 slide. Let’s remove the slide from the equation as I can replicate this problem with out the slide by holding the trigger to the rear and releasing tension on the connector. it starts to pop up and then hangs up somewhere. At first I thought it was hanging up on the overtravel screw but it If I put a completely OEM trigger also with an overtravel screw it doesn’t hang up. I have multiple of his triggers, I have gone part by part swapping them out and nothing fixes it, and again it is only in this frame, any other frame and it’s good to go.things I have ruled out:the slide as I can replicate without the slideconnector bend angle is as it should be and can also be replicated with multiple connectors.when checking for frame pinching between connector and frame by pulling trigger bar forward slightly and letting go it moves back with out any catching or stalling.trigger return spring is properly installedHave tested with multiple trigger housings connector is all the way in housing, fits tight and does not catch on the trigger housinghappens with multiple trigger bars so that is ruled out__I think there is an issue somewhere in the frame, I can take all these different trigger bars, connectors etc and put them into my g19 frame and there is no problem. Is there anywhere on the left side of the frame that the cruciform of the trigger bar can hang up on? It seems like the the right side of cruciform starts to pop up while the left side catches. it seems like it’s the overtravel screw but I don’t think it is, I have even changed the screw to One from my other working guns and same issue.could there be a tolerance issue between the trigger pin holes and the housing pin holes? It seems the bar is flexing somehow causing the hang upI am completely stumped I have spent hours and hours trying to identify the issue and I just can’t figure it out.Johnny has suggested a frame tolerance issue maybe the pin holes being off ever so slightly. This frame does have pretty tight holes even for a new frame. I have tried measuring with digital calipers and they seem to be the same but it could be the relation between the trigger pin and the housing pin maybe? I am really out of ideas. I can take this exact same trigger, put it in my g19 frame and it runs flawlessly, this is also the second complete assembly he has sent me so I really don’t think it’s his system as I have 4 of his triggers and they all run flawlessly

i have been rocking the 15lb spring now for a few weeks and it has proven to be 100% reliable and shoots like a dream.

cool, I was hoping that would be the case, you don’t think it will be too rough on the frame?

Hey guys, in USPSA I have been using a g34.5 mos with a milled slide with quite a bit of weight taken out of it by primary machines. I have been using the Glock store tungsten guide rod with a 15lb spring and it has been 100% reliable. I am switching to a factory slide and I am wondering if I should still use the 15lb spring or if I should go back up to an OEM weight of 17lb since there where be all that extra weight in the slide compared to what I was using. I don’t want to batter my frame to pieces from using to light of a spring with factory 124gr federal American eagle so I wanted to see what you guys think? thanks!

Ok thanks for the advice, I know the oem 17lb wasn't nearly as flat as the tungsten but wasn't sure if the 17 would work better now that I have the tungsten with factory ammo, I could def give a bill drill with a 13 a try to see how it feels, maybe I'll order a 17 and 13 and compare. The 15 is already working really well so maybe I'll just leave it alone lol

Hey guys, I am currently running a glock 34 cut by primary machines that has a significant amount of weight removed from the slide. I use the glock store heavy extended uncaptured tungsten guide rod with 15lb spring which is what primary machines recommended. The gun runs 100% reliable with no malfunctions. The gun also ran 100% reliable with an OEM 17lb glock RSA. So I am wondering since I am running factory ammo would I notice diminished recoil with a 17lb spring on my uncaptured rod vs the 15lb I currently use? My thinking is the heavier spring would dampen recoil better then the 15lb. With the 15lb the recoil impulse is pretty good. It doesn't dip at all when it locks up and when doing a bill drill my red dot stays in the window but does move all the way to the top. I am just trying to squeeze as much preformance out of the gun as possible. Last question, would running a 17lb spring cause any extra wear on the frame with the lightened slide when it locks up? Thanks for the advice!

Unfortunately I don't really have the money to take a class with him and I have no idea where in the country he is, does he have videos at all?

Hey guys, I am getting to a point in uspsa where the number one thing holding me back is my movement. My accuracy, draw, And reloads are all pretty respectable but my movement needs work. I am trying to keep both hands on the gun basically unless im going in to a full gate. I am right handed btw. When moving left to right it's easy to not break the 180 but I notice practicing at home I have to rotate my hips alot more when running right to left. It seems to me the most comfortable method and the method that keeps my gun the farthest from the 180 is to rotate the gun so the side of my slide is parallel with the ground allowing me to angle my wrists back away from the 180. Is this an appropriate/useful method? Is there a better method? Do you know of any videos that may be useful to me improving here? I would appreciate any and all movement advice you can offer me. I am currently C class and have been shooting USPSA for a few months, I feel like if I can get my speed up a little more B class is within reach. Thanks alot for any advice!

I can take some pictures tomorrow when I clean it after league but to better elaborate, I have a gen 5 glock 34. His competition gen 5 trigger uses a gen 3 bar with with a gen 5 housing. The bar is modified to work with the gen 5 style trigger return spring so it fits in the little piece of metal attached to the gen 5 return spring in the same way a gen 5 bar does.

Hey guys, So I have been using Johnny glock triggers in all my glocks for awhile now. I always went with his combat trigger as my 19 and 43x are primarily self defense guns. I got into uspsa a few months ago and I'm slowly working towards B class, right now my scores are typically high C. During League I'm pretty consistently getting B percentages but that's against other league members and not the national grandmasters. We do have 1 Grand Master and 3 or 4 Masters at our club, all but 1 of the Masters is shooting CO. When I decided to pull the trigger on a g34 I wanted the best trigger I could get for it, it was between Johnny glock or timney and I went with Johnny's because I know his products well and I was wary of the sluggish reset from the timney. So it arrived yesterday and I got out to the range for some practice last night and wow this trigger feels amazing. Break weight is sub 3lb, reset is amazing and break is nice and clean. I'm using a polished 4.5lb striker spring with an oem firing pin, reduced weight plunger spring and Johnny glock polished plunger. This is my first time going down to 4.5lb striker spring and my primer strikes where totally good to go. I shot about 300 rounds of wwb, with no light strikes. During actual competition or league I use federal 9mm. It is very unique because although I have a gen 5 g34 he uses a gen 3 trigger bar with gen 5 housing. It really changes the break feel and reset feel and sound for the better. When it first arrived I thought he sent me the wrong trigger but he explained to me why he uses the gen 3 bar. The only downside to this trigger is the price. With the flat face trigger shoe it was $290 but honestly it's worth it. I have felt a bunch of different glock triggers and it doesn't matter if it's the combat or the competition I have never felt a trigger that feels as good as his. I use the combat in my 19 and 43x and those both feel great as well. They have a more pronounced wall than the competition but still break around 4 to 5lb depending on striker spring. I would like to shoot the timney trigger at some point but I am really happy with my decision. If you are in the market for a glock trigger I suggest you start out at Johnnyglocks.com

Hey guys, so right now for CO I am running a g34 that has an OEM slide that was milled by primary machines. I use a 15lb spring on heavy extended guide rod and it shoots great, the red dot is so easy to track. My one concern is racking the gun off the front slide serrations. This is my first ever milled gun and because the cut is so extreme and it has little support columns in the center of the lightning cuts I worry I'll somehow break my slide from using my front slide serrations. Is this just my super OCD brain and a totally illegitimate concern or would you be concerned with this cut? The top also has a big window with a thin support column in the center as well. I usually grip it with the pocket between my thumb and index finger which I feel like applies the least possible force but I still worry about it so I have been using the rear serrations primarily. I am so much faster with the front serrations that I'm hoping yall can ease my mind. I have only been competing for a few months so it isn't like it is gonna make or break me but I'd like to be using the beat practices possible as I have been improving quickly. Below is a link to the gun, let me know what you guys think. Imgur link to my g34

Got to shoot it today at uspsa practice and it shoots like a dream.with the tungsten and 15lb recoil spring

Yea I'm dumb just watched a video, the version I have doesn't use a plug sorry guys haha, going this heavy into mods is new to me. Use to just slap a johnny glock trigger in and call it a day, I love uspsa lol Just put it in, fits and functions exactly as it should, guess I should have just started there

So maybe this one is suppose to be like this? The one humble marksman is using I believe is the double diamond which shows the adapter in the picture on glockstore. This one is much thicker then that so maybe it just fits into the slide without any adapter? The pictures don't show any adapter so here in a min I'm gonna try putting it in and see how it goes, hopefully I'm just a newbie over reacting

Hey guys I ordered a super heavy extended gen 5 uncaptured guide rod, and they told me it included everything I needed to run it in my gun but there is no front adapter for it. I assume this is incorrect right? So annoying since I specifically asked I'd it included it and they said yes, now I can't run the gun on Tuesday as I planned