TheIceman93

I’ve been out of 3 gun for a little while and I’m looking to jump back in. My previous gun used a Stretch 16 because they were very popular at the time but they don’t seem to be making barrels anymore. I’m just curious what everyone is using now. Thanks.

I only see SP01 Shadows on his site. Does he do optic cuts for SP01's and 75's with a firing pin block?

Just a public service announcement if you were planning on having Primary Machine doing optic milling on your CZ. Primary Machine announced on Instagram that they are getting out of the optic milling game to focus on manufacturing their own products and doing oem manufacturing for other companies. April 15th is the last day to order an optic cut. This is a big blow to CZ red dot fans because Primary was probably the most popular optic milling company that did CZ75 based guns. At this point, I think the only remaining shops that will do optic work for the 75 series are CZ Custom, GCW and Fire 4 Effect. The silver lining is the possibility that Primary may do pre-milled drop in slides for the CZ75. We should certainly pester them to do so. As of now, there isn't a single company that does a a pre-milled drop in slide for the 75.

Thanks. After some reading, it sounds like this is normal behavior for race hammers. Going back and watching the Apex install video, their safety also engages with the hammer down. Sounds like I'm good. I just have to remember not to engage the safety when the hammer is down.

So I've noticed a strange thing with my SP01 running an Apex Sear/Hammer. Using just the stock parts, the safety only engages when the hammer is fully cocked. However, after putting in the Apex parts, the safety now engages when the hammer is down. Pulling the trigger in DA with the safety engaged will move the hammer back to half cock but then the safety stops the rest of the rearward movement. Have I damaged my safety in some way? I've always thought that the safety only engages when the hammer is cocked all the way back.

Ya, I was honestly shocked about the low shipping prices from Estonia. Plus I got the parts in like 4 days which was faster than some CGW parts I bought at the same time. I was nervous about buying from Europe but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again if US shops are out of stock.

No prob, I was in the same boat as you.

IPSC Store in Estonia ships to the US. They probably have what you are looking for. I've bought from them before and they get a thumbs up from me. There seems to be a CZ parts shortage in the US at the moment but luckily there are some Euro suppliers. https://www.ipscstore.com/en/423-cz-shadow-2

Try IPSC Store in Estonia. I've bought some parts from them. Shipping to the US via UPS was fast and surprisingly reasonable if you buy more than a few parts at once. It looks like they have some of the parts you are looking for. They're basically the CZ parts house for Eemann Tech so they also have a lot of aftermarket CZ parts. https://www.ipscstore.com/en/112-cz-75-sp-01

I'm trying to determine the legality of this part for USPSA Carry Optics and IDPA Carry Optics.

So you do tactical reloads?

Does it hold the slide back on an empty mag?

So I have a few questions regarding direct optic milling for CZ75's. I have an SP01 that I want to direct mount a Holosun 507K (the smaller one that doesn't use the RMR pattern). I know the 507K is narrow enough to be direct milled but I'm curious how these cuts affect the firing pin block channel. I'm planning to have the dovetail milled out but I don't want the cut to extend farther back than where the dovetail currently sits. Can you only machine down as far as the factory dovetail? How is the FPB affected by slightly shortening the plunger hole? I've seen some people say that the sight itself holds the FPB in place? I'm just looking for a little clarification on a slightly confusing topic. It would be easier if there were more pictures of CZ75 cuts on the own. I can really only find pictures of the sights mounted to the frame but I'd like to see the cut itself. The attached picture shows how deep the cut would be.

I think the price difference is mainly the lower manufacturing costs in Estonia where they are based. Plus don't the CGW Pro kits come with competition hammers and sears? That adds a lot to the cost. The Eemann kit just has a firing pin, disconnector and springs. I will add the the fit any finish on my CGW parts is a little nicer than the finish on my ET thumb rest. The ET part has a few rough spots in finish (not sure if its blued). I bought it for function though so I don't really care. I just rub on some gun oil every once an a while and it looks nice. Another upgrade kit worth considering is the Apex S2 kit but that mostly smooths out the DA stroke and gives the SA a more pronounced wall and crisper break. I think the ET kit is more focused on lightening the trigger and shortening the reset.

I have one of their slide stop thumb rests on my SP01 that I've been happy with. Functions as advertised and the quality seems good. Saved me from having to drill my frame for a thumb rest. I haven't really seen any negative reviews of their products but they primarily cater to Euro shooters so there isn't much out there. I think a few guys here are running their straight DA/SA trigger. I'd say their kit is probably a safe buy and you are seeing more of their parts discussed here so they are definitely growing.

I'm having a hard time deciding. I have both an SP01 and a 75SA (frame only) that I'm considering putting a Bull Shadow slide on. Which frame style do you prefer for this slide style? If I put the Bull Shadow on the SP01, the SP01 slide will be moved to the 75SA frame. So I guess the question is, Bull Shadow SP01 and SP01/75SA Franken gun vs. 75SA Bull Shadow and stock SP01? Decisions, decisions. SP01 Bull Shadow 75SA Bull Shadow

@Randy Lee Thank you for the very detailed response. Unfortunately, us California serfs are banned from enjoying the benefits of the Shadow 1 and 2 trigger. That darn firing pin block in the B prevents us from getting a competition grade trigger. Sure, you could remove it but I'm pretty sure that is illegal in Production class. Do you have any recommendations for additional mods for 75B series FPB equipped pistols beyond your kit? What do you anticipate the SA pull weight will be for the upcoming competition hammer?

Thank you for keeping the sears the same and offering the hammer separately so customers already running your kit don't have to buy the same part twice. Greatly appreciated. Randy, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the CZ75 trigger in general, especially the topic of da/sa take-up and single action reset. It seems that super short take-up and resets are all the rage these days. It seems that your kit primarily focuses on double action smoothness and the wall before the break. Do you feel that the take-up and reset with your kit are fine as is? Could we possibly see additional Apex parts in the future to fine tune these areas? I'm not totally sold on the benefits of a super short take-up and reset since many competition shooters are lifting their finger off the trigger between shots in rapid fire anyways. Just curious to hear your thoughts.

Thats great to hear Randy. Will the new hammer be compatible with the sear from your original kit? If so, will it be available to purchase separately?

I don't want to permanently alter my gun. It's annoying that you can't buy SP01 slides on their own. I would have no reservations abut cutting up a second slide.

I'm thinking of adding a red dot to my SP01. I know, a slide cut is the best way but I'm not ready to commit to it and its a permanent modification. I've been looking at dovetail mounts instead. The Springer is recommended a lot but I don't like how high up it places the dot and I'm not a fan of the gap between the mount and the top of the frame. I saw pictures of the Zendl red dot mounts for the Shield micro optics and they look pretty low profile and compact. It seems that these mounts are only available through CZ Parts in Europe. Does anyone have experience with these mounts?

But why? It looks cheap for sure. Question is, does it work? If you get the height the the vinyl right, I can't see any issues with it. You get a clean look with just the red dot in the rear plus a mark on the lens that lies up with your front post. That's all you need for a backup iron.

I stumbled upon this the other night and I'm curious to hear what others think of this solution. Any reason why this wouldn't work? Basically, the dude just cut some vinyl pieces to place the rear BUIS posts directly on the SRO glass. Is this guy a genius or is he hitting the crack pipe? I'm going with the former. I can't think of any good reason why this wouldn't work.

Thank you for the reply Randy. I appreciate that you want to keep your customers as safe as possible and home smithing does have certain risks that should be mitigated if possible. I would very much like to run the Cajun SRS1 kit with your hammer and sear. https://cajungunworks.com/product/srs-1-short-reset-system/ I'm currently running my SP01 in SAO but I'm thinking of going back to DA/SA. The SRS1 does utilize an extended firing pin but it uses a short lifter arm to maintain the FPB safety feature. Would you say that it is ok to use an extended firing pin kit like this with your hammer and sear since the FPB is kept in place? It seems that most of your concerns are with ND's on CZ Shadow models that don't have FPB's or regular 75's with the FPB removed. The SA break on your Apex kit is the best I've felt and I've shot CZ's with most of the high end trigger systems. The only think holding it back is the long SA reset and I'd like to fix that if possible without removing the PPB.

So I'm happily using the Apex kit in SAO in my SP01 but I am curious about removing the firing pin block from my gun to improve the reset. I asked Apex about it but the said they couldn't comment on removing the FPB because they never advise removing safety features. I understand this is for legal purposes and they don't want to get sued for accidental discharges. So I'll ask everyone here. Any potential issues with removing the firing pin block from an Apex CZ? Is the sear and hammer engagement affected at all by the firing pin block? I just don't want to damage anything. I love the feeling of the Apex SA break but I would like to shorten the reset. Since the Apex kit isn't compatible with extended firing pins, it seems the only way to improve the reset is by eliminating the firing pin block. Randy, if you're reading this, please consider releasing a kit that is safe to use with extended firing pins so we can run CGW and CZC short reset kits with your sear and hammer.