Wolerine19D

Pretty much all lube works, some just works better. For me I have tried many different types and none compare to CherryBalmz which is a extremely light grease, probably just a tad thicker looking then LSA. The military uses TW-25b that is very similar and I imagine they are both pretty even but I bought the CherryBalmz first and their black rifle balm even has a very slight cherry smell that smells good. The reason oil works better then grease for most people is because they are using thick greases not meant for guns. The grease you find at the hardware store or automotive store will work on most guns in the right conditions and it will work well. But It will also gum up the gun in the wrong conditions. The right type of oil will work in all conditions, just not as well as a light grease like Cherrybalmz/TW25b in my opinion. I do still use regular gun oil for some applications and for that I really like the cheaper Lucas oil that is the reddish color. It is a fairly reasonable price compared to most other gun oils and has no smell, lubes as well as any other gun oil I've tried and stays put a little better then most. A lot of people really like Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and I've tried lots of different weights with it and it works very well I just don't like the consistency of it or the smell. But best bang for your buck is definitely Mobil 1 synthetic or surplus LSA. LSA works extremely well but it's a little outdated compared to the newer light greases like mentioned above. But when you can find gallon jugs of it for a good price it's hard to beat if you plan to run the gun in normal weather. I'm not sure how well it would do in extreme cold and imagine it would start to gum up at 0F degrees and below. The black rifle balm from cherrybalmz I use is good to about -10F or -20F in most platforms which is sufficient for where I live. But they also make a Winter Balm I have used and it's good to around -50F or so and is a little lighter grease then the regular black rifle balm. It works almost as well, but I prefer the regular stuff if you aren't going to be in arctic conditions. He also makes some other greases but these are the main 2 I use. Try some, it may surprise you. Or some TW25b I imagine it works just as well. If you clean your gun after every few magazines it may not be for you since the price per volume is a little higher then most oils. It works best when you put it on a little thick and leave it there. Most oil burns off after 1k rounds or so or after months in storage. The grease will still be there after thousands of rounds or months if not years in storage. I use it on AR platforms more then anything where it really shines but run it on my pistols too. The Lucas oil is my go to for springs and any areas where I need the lube to drain down into. I used to use the LSA a decent bit before I tried the Cherrybalmz stuff.

Check out Johnnys Reloading Bench on Youtube or the reloaders network. He has a really good workup for Mk262 Black Hills clone using mostly the Sierra 77gr OTM bullets. He has also used the Hornady 75 OTM in the past on some videos and if a charge does well with the 77 Sierra it will also likely do well with the 75 and be safe. From memory there are about 10 powders he tested that got up to the velocity of the BlackHills factory 5.56 ammo but many weren't as accurate from his barrel. Some of the best ones were 8208 XBR and AR Comp if you want a temp stable powder that is very accurate and doesn't have pressure signs at just below the BlackHills velocity. It could be pushed up that fast but started to show pressure signs, but not as much with the AR Comp. The factory ammo was running around 2750 fps out of his 18" barrel and the 8208 and AR comp done extremely well at around 2725 ish fps. If you don't care as much about temp sensitivity then the best ball powders were probably Accurate 2520 and PP 2000-MR. Both were extremely accurate and produced the 2750fps and then some. The PP-2000 MR could be pushed even further without pressure signs if memory serves and is a slightly compressed load. I believe Accurate 2520 was one of his favorites. CFE223 got there velocity wise and I believe it could even be pushed a little further like the other ball powders above but the accuracy was lacking in his barrel. I know all barrels are different but overall it seems like the 2520 and 2000MR and AR Comp and 8208 shoot better then CFE. Also in this group was LeverEvolution which is very similar to CFE223 and produced some amazing velocity numbers like 2800+ fps without pressure signs but the accuracy was similar to CFE which was around 1 to 1.5 MOA if memory serves while the others above were closer to .5-.75MOA Another powder that showed great promise was Alliants Varmint, it produced the most velocity with none other coming close. I believe he got it to 2860 or so without really any pressure signs or just minimal but the accuracy wasn't as good as the others above. But I believe there was a node at around the 2750-2800ish mark that done quite well but it didn't take much above or below it before it opened up. My pick for the same ammo is AR Comp and 2000MR but 8208XBR and 2520 are right there with them. I know he tested more powders then I just mentioned but I believe these were the top performers. It was a very interesting test for me and I got a lot of data from it to help my own workup. He also has a good series on the 55gr bullet using various powders. Edited to add - I remember he also had a video testing out some Shooters World powder but can't remember which one it was I believe Precision Rifle. It was basically identical to 2520 and even required the exact same charge weight to produce the same velocity and accuracy. This would be a great slightly lower cost option. From almost everything I've seen on Shooters World they produce powders that are almost exactly the same as Accurate powders which makes sense since the top guy used to work for Accurate. I don't believe the powders are identical since I've seen some side by side that looked slightly different but I believe they used the same formulas for many of the powders. Like their pistol powders with Clean Shot being AA2 , and I believe Major Pistol is AA7 if memory serves and so forth.

For anyone that doesn't know the Lee shell holders are a tad thinner then the Hornady ones. I really like the quality of the Hornady shell holders and they fit the cases much better but are around .510 long and the Lee is around .498-.500ish . The Redding & RCBS are also around .500ish but the Lee is generally the thinnest on average and will allow the case to be sized further before the shell holder hits the die. I also screw my pistol sizing dies in a little past where they hit the shell holder because when you size them it never quite reaches the actual shell holder unless you lower the die a little more. I use both the 9mm Lee U die and original 9mm Lee die. The U die sizes the case much tighter but strangely the original 9mm Lee die gets rid of the bulge at the bottom better. I have had 9mm brass with really swollen bulges at the bottom shot in unsupported chambers that with the U die would still not plunk due to the huge bulge still there, but when I ran them through the regular 9mm Lee die after they all worked fine. I didn't load this brass since it was bulged so much and would have been dangerous but since then I first size/deprime the cases in the U die and then twist the turret head and size in the regular Lee die to size it a tiny bit more at the base. All dies can vary so some peoples U dies may actually size the bottom of the case as well as my regular Lee dies, and some peoples regular Lee dies may not size as well as mine does. My regular Lee die works great and is probably all anyone would ever need and like I said it does better for bulged brass then my U die but I really like the extra tension the U die provides so I use both. This would be a lot more work if you was running a single stage but with the Lee Classic Turret press I just manually move the head from the U die to regular die and then put another piece of brass in and do it again. I never did use the automatic rotation of the turret on the Lee since I thought it was much easier to control by hand. You can move it to whatever direction you want with the slightest pressure on top. And for what it's worth to others who want to know how other dies compare - I have a RCBS and Hornady set in 9mm as well and the RCBS set is the worst, it does a horrible job at sizing the bottom of the case. I have RCBS dies in 40 and 45 too that I don't use for this very reason. They will probably work with 99% of the cases and barrels you shoot them in but the Lee sizes much further down. The Hornady I have is in-between and closer to the regular Lee die. When it comes to pistol sizing dies you really can't beat Lee. But I don't like their expander dies and use the RCBS M style for that, and prefer the RCBS taper die to the Lee Factory Crimp as well but the Factory Crimp is still a good die. Especially on rifle rounds. For Rifle rounds I don't think you can beat the Forster Benchrest dies for value and quality. They will cost a little more then RCBS/Lee/Hornady but the sizing die has the expander ball up higher which causes less run-out and their seating die is the real prize which is made exactly the same as theirs and Reddings micro-meter seating die with the springed sleeve that goes around the case to produce very straight rounds. The Redding seating die is just as good if you get their Micrometer one but it costs about $100 and their regular seater doesn't have the alignment sleeve in it while the cheaper Forster die does and is just as accurate as the Redding just without the micrometer adjustments. I just wish they made pistol dies as well.

I had thought about seeing how hard it would be to get the barrel throated but figured it would be more then it was worth. If it can truly be done for about $25 as mentioned above it would be a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion. That said if you have the G19 or G19X or G45 you can use a Gen 4 barrel in them which you can often pick up for $60-80 used. I believe the Gen 2-3 barrel will work as well but would probably stick with the Gen 4 to be safe since it has the same type of recoil spring. The grip texture on the Gen 4-5's is very nice over the smoother 1-3, and getting rid of the finger grooves on the front was also very nice. I do not like the cutout at the bottom of the grip on the shorter G19 which is the same on Gen 2s as well but doesn't bother me on G17's and I believe the latest ones are solid in this area now. The ambi safety doesn't matter much to me if anything I'd take it off but the improved trigger spring and takedown spring as well as the upgraded safety plunger are all great upgrades. Everyone always complains that the Glock doesn't upgrade enough with it's models and that they are all about the same. To me that is a good thing since I don't see much room for improvement. When they get to messing with their "improvements" you end up with things like the short throat that causes issues, or MIM parts and junk extractors. I don't shoot well enough to tell the difference, all of my barrels shoot better then I can. I would much rather have the added reliability of being able to feed whatever round was in the mag. If Glock would just listen to customers a little better we would have had the Gen 5 design 20+ years ago. But they don't seem to listen very well, and still send out the older style ejectors in the Gen 3 and 4 Glocks instead of upgrading them all with the Gen 5's. And the constant Extractor issues since they switched to MIM parts is also very frustrating. Brass to face and erratic extraction is very common on the 9mm guns made after about 08-09. An Apex extractor and the Gen 5 ejector seems to cure 99.9% of the issues, but it shouldn't be an issue to start with.

I forgot to mention I seen this early on in reloading as well from time to time. What helped me was switching from the Lee/Hornady expanders I had to a RCBS one which I believe is similar to the M Die/Redding one. It doesn't put as much flare on the cases but goes deeper into the case and allows the bullet to sit much straighter. But what probably helped more then that was just using the thinner cases like Federal. If you weigh cases out the Federals are around 54-59 grains if I remember right, and most others are in the 60-64gr range. I recently got a bunch of nickel brass and noticed that most of the Speer was in the 61-63 range but quite a bit of it was in the 55-58 range like the Federal. Not sure what's up with that but I guess we will see.

Where can you get the Gen 5 Glocks done for $25? I hate how short you have to load just for them. They seem to be even shorter then the CZ's on average. Why Glock done this is beyond me, the old barrels worked great. And they went from being able to eat just about anything to being extremely finicky about cartridge length. Other then that the Gen 5's seem to have some nice upgrades in regards to springs and some other parts.

The 11.5" barrel is a great length for close quarters and offers plenty of velocity if you get the right ammo. Standard M193 55gr ball usually has enough velocity to still fragment well if it's within 25-50 yds or so. This is with full spec 5.56 loads like the American Eagle M193 Lake City. The 62gr M855 rounds don't fragment as well and since they are slower velocity I doubt they would fragment but just barely out of the 11.5". Fragmentation works great, it's very effective and probably more-so then a expanding bullet in my opinion but the problem with it is the rounds don't fragment 100% of the time. Most of the time the rounds should fragment as expected but some bullets won't depending on how they enter the body among other factors. So the best choice for shorter barrels is something that will expand reliably at lower velocity or something with a thinner jacket that will fragment easier then the M193 ball round. You'd have to do a bit more research on the heavier OTM rounds but I expect the 68-69 gr Hornady/Sierra would do quite well and there are many factory options available. The 75-77gr will probably fragment as well up close but I'm not positive on that and the 68-69 would give you more range due to the higher velocity. But back to the best choice, it is without much doubt the bonded SP as mentioned above. Velocity is still a factor so even though the 75gr Bonded SP from Speer/Federal will expand out of the 11.5" the 62gr counterpart will expand at further distances, and the 55gr even further. The Federal Fusion and the Speer Gold Dot are in fact the exact same bullets. The Speer switched from the 64gr bullet to the 62 gr a few years back that is identical to the Fusions. There are other bonded SP out there but these are the best. Many people also like the Federal TBBC (trophy bonded bear claw) rounds and they also are great but not as common and require a little more velocity then the Fusions to expand. Now the downside of these bonded SP rounds? Nobody I know of offers a 5.56 version which is a shame. They will still all expand out of the 11.5" barrel but you give up a lot of range from the slower velocity they load them at. If I remember right it's cut back quite a bit and even slower then some other 223 rounds on the market. I haven't kept up with this as much as others so it's possible someone offers these bonded SP rounds in 5.56 loads now. But if you are a reloader then you can make your own fairly reasonable. Speer offers the bullets new for around $20 per 100 and a couple places offer the pulled bullets from time to time so I've picked up many for $70-100 per 1k. Pair that with some CCI41 primers or Rem 7 1/2s at about $30-40 per 1k, Lake City once fired brass at about $50-60 per 1k, and 4 pounds of PP 2000MR or AR Comp or countless others for about $80 and you have a total price of around $250-300 per 1k loaded up. I have a little less in mine from waiting on sales and the right deals to pop up. If using new bullets instead of the pulls it'd be about $350-375 per 1k which is still a good price for full power 5.56 bonded SP rounds that are as good as it gets. If you don't reload and can't find any 5.56 bonded SP rounds then my advise is to either accept the slower velocity and pick up some 55-62 223 ones or pick up some 5.56 68-69gr OTM rounds loaded hot, or standard 55-62gr soft points also do very well. Some companies like Hornady offers 5.56 loads in their standard 55 and 62sp and from the testing I remember they both expanded amazingly in short barrels but the 55 came up a little short in the recommended 12" penetration but believe the 62 done quite well and would be a great choice in my opinion. The bonded SP rounds do better then standard SP rounds because they are barrier blind and don't fragment much if any when they hit something meaning they penetrate deep. So they can go through a windshield or walls etc and hold up and still expand upon entry. But if you do not plan to shoot through barriers like car doors/windshields/thicker walls etc. then the standard 62 and possibly 55SP along with the heavier 68-77gr OTM will work just as well if not a tiny bit better for wound cavitation. And even the standard M193 does very well as mentioned above just not 100% of the time and not with much distance out of the 11.5". - Sorry for the long reply.

For people reading this and looking for calipers in the future check out the Igaging Absolute Origin caliper they are the best bang for your buck if you want something other then the cheapo $10-20 ones. Last I checked they ran about $30-40 but I picked mine up used on Ebay for a little over $20 and it's so much smoother and nicer then the cheaper sits I have. Don't get me wrong the cheap $10-20 sets have always worked well for me and are accurate but this Igaging one is super smooth and is my top pick along with many others who have done testing on numerous calipers. Igaging also has a cheaper sit for about $25ish that I hear is also good quality but not quite as nice as their Origin one. I almost bought it until I found the used one I bought. I also find it very helpful to have a dial caliper instead of all digital. Sometimes the digital calipers can change readings a little bit depending on how hard you squeeze them and with a dial caliper this doesn't seem to be as big of an issue.

There should be more then a little extra room there. From what I've seen 1138fps from it is not even maxing out standard pressure for that powder yet alone +P. It should do 1200+fps easily with any factory pistol without maxing it out. If it wasn't for needing such a large charge weight I would probably order the True Blue myself based on all the reviews. I just don't see that it has any advantage for me though at the 1175-1200fps mark since it will likely produce more recoil then the N330/WSF etc. How did it feel to you recoil wise? Any comparison between it and other powders at that velocity level? I imagine the recoil difference between the different powders is more noticeable at +P pressures.

Thank you for this, it appears my thread is on topic then. I have no interest in discussing self defense scenarios and only mentioned so above in reply to another member. This is solely about reloading and storing and possibly eventually shooting this ammo for whatever purpose.

Hey AHI, is my thread against forum rules in some way? If that is the case I am sorry. It seemed in line with other topics started on this section of the forum. Or is this forum only used for competition like Minor/Major with no other topics allowed to be discussed? If so that is unfortunate because the members here seem to be very helpful and knowledgeable. Edited to add - And yes I do have a chronograph and couldn't imagine reloading without it. Especially for something like this when you get into +P territory, there's no way I would trust a random load online without working it up myself with my brass/bullets etc.

As stated above by another member this is not practice ammo, I plan on using FMJ's and RMR MPR rounds for that. These will be loaded up to stash away in case they are ever needed in the future for emergencies. So likely they won't be used and one of my family members will eventually shoot them up after I'm gone. I don't plan to use these for self defense, I have plenty of factory HST and Gold Dot rounds for that. But I couldn't pass these up for the price and I don't want to just burn them up when I can do so with other less effective rounds. I also like the idea of having a good stash of ammo loaded up in case it is ever needed in the future and if that situation ever comes these bullets should be about as good as it gets and it won't matter if you use reloads for defense since there wouldn't be any court of law left. And as for penetration the HST's always penetrate more then 12" even at high velocity, they are about the most consistent round you can get when it comes to penetration. The only exception to this I know of is their .380 rounds which come up a little short. But their 9-40-45's all easily do 12-18", and they still expand great in short barrels as well. On paper they are as good as it gets for defensive purposes, but I doubt their is that much of a difference in the top performers when it comes to real world results. My top picks are Gold Dots, and HST's with the Remington Golden Saber and Winchester Ranger ammo being right up there as well but without any pulled bullets available like the Gold Dots/HST's. The RMR Multi Purpose Rounds also seem to do quite well for the money but there hasn't been much testing done on them with different velocities and different barriers and no real world cases I know of, but they shoot great and a lot of guys seem to like them for competition. And I may very well be overthinking things, I tend to do that. I try to research everything as much as possible before jumping in and when it comes to something like this I see no harm in picking a powder that is optimal rather then one that will work. It doesn't really cost anymore money to pick a powder that has low flash, is fairly clean, and produces the least recoil for my velocity goals. If I was plinking in the back yard I wouldn't care as much but if these were to ever be used for defensive purposes or possibly even hunting then the lower recoil would be nice for follow up shots. As shooters and gun enthusiasts we all have different interests and goals but share the same sport and lifestyle. What I am doing here may not make sense to most of you but it does to me and I'll enjoy the experience as well. I appreciate everyones input along the way!

Something else that's been on my mind, is it the least charge weight has the least recoil, or the densest powder? The reason I ask, a powder like True Blue can fit over 11 grains in a 9mm case, while a powder like N330 is 7-8 grains I believe so even though the True Blue takes 1 grain more to achieve the same velocity is it possible it produces the same recoil or even less because it's a much denser ball powder?

I have also read a lot of praise on True Blue and it seems like a lot of it comes from the same few people on other forums but from what I've read it does seem to be great stuff. But looking at the charge weights it requires a decent bit more powder to get the same velocity at +P loads. For Major I imagine it would work quite well but at NATO/+P levels I don't see it having any advantage over the faster N330 type powders that could give me less recoil. And as good of a powder as Power Pistol is, I am not really interested in it due to how much flash it produces and also because I can just use BE-86 which is practically Power Pistol with flash suppressant and just a tiny bit faster meaning less powder required to get the same velocity. I don't see where Power Pistol has any advantage over BE-86 that I've read. That is why BE-86 was my first choice starting out from all the praise Power Pistol and then BE-86 had so I added a couple pounds onto an order I was already making. But now after having a good bit of HST pulls to load up and doing more research I was wondering if there wasn't a better powder choice out there that could produce even less muzzle flash and more importantly less recoil. It appears N330 is the top contended for my needs at NATO/+P levels unless I hear of others saying otherwise. If there is a faster powder out there that can produce less recoil then N330 while giving me the velocity I'm looking for then I'd be happy to hear about it assuming it's not too flashy and not too dirty. But at the moment I am planning on ordering some N330 in the near future while it's still in stock.

1911, you've been a big help in helping me decide on the powder choice. I guess I just needed some others with more experience to confirm what I already guessed was one of the best powders for my goals. I just like to research stuff as much as possible, especially when I will be loading up a bunch of these to store away. How did you like WAC and WSF? I've read the WAC is almost identical to CFE Pistol but without the copper eraser. I'm not sure how dirty it is or how much flash it has. And I take it WSF is similar in burn rate to N330-N340ish and probably better for what I'm needing then WAC. While I don't have any local suppliers there is a small shop about 45 minutes away that has some powder options but most are very overpriced at $30-40 a pound but remember seeing the WSF/WAC for around $25 which isn't half bad. I plan to order the N330 but having backup options for the future is nice. Also curious did you ever try out BE-86, or CFE Pistol? I have more of the BE-86 and love the numbers on the stuff but don't think it offers anything that N330 doesn't already have except for you guys that run Major? From what I've read it's still fairly flashy even with it's flash suppressant, it's just an improvement over Power Pistol in that regard. And the recoil is reported as being quite snappy compared to other powders from a few guys that wrote about it. I'm not sure what they were comparing it with though.

Thanks for the input. From what I've read the WSF seems to be very favored but from the little I read wasn't sure how much flash it had and if it could be loaded hot enough for +P loads. The Nato Reloading website didn't have it listed and all of the other places max it's velocity out a decent bit below my goals but I'm sure that's standard pressure and I doubt it will have any trouble at the velocity numbers I'm expecting. I also read it could be a little dirty but I imagine that was mostly people running Minor loads. I don't care anyways as long as it's not too bad. I haven't read as much about N340 but have thought about it as well. I was just hoping to get there with N330 if possible and from the numbers I've seen I think it's possible to do so at just barely +P levels. The price doesn't bother me for the pistol powders when a pound will do 1200-1500 rounds it's a fraction of the total overall cost and would only add $5-10 extra per 1k over other powders. And only needing a slightly lower charge weight then say my BE-86 I imagine it almost makes up for the price difference. When I decide what to order I will get at least 2-3 jugs of it to have enough to load up what I have and then some. If you had to pick just one powder for my needs would it be N330? Or do you think N340 or WSF has a slight advantage in some way.

I think the 3N38 is really too slow for my purposes. I'm sure it will do the velocity easy but so will the BE-86 I already have and a dozen others. I am not going for max velocity and 1175-1200fps from a 147gr is more then I need. Not to say I won't load some of those up eventually but I am wanting to make these rounds have as light of recoil as possible and around 1000-1100fps for the 147s I'm pretty sure the faster powders would have less recoil then the slower powders like the 3N38? If I wasn't worried about trying to find the lightest recoil for my velocity requirements then I would probably just use BE-86, CFE Pistol, N350, Silhouette, W572, etc. Maybe I'm overthinking this and if I was just loading rounds for plinking I wouldn't care. But I'm wanting to load a few thousand of these to stash away in case of emergency. And would like to continue to use the same load for practice and finding the best powder choice isn't going to cost me any extra money so I'd like to make the best choice possible.

Hey Sarge, at one point I was but just in the state guard here in WV. I've been out a few years now. s2000, I've already went over that website dozens of times and find it really helpful but it doesn't talk much about recoil. That site is probably what made me pick N330 as being one of the best choices for my purpose. I made a chart with all of his powders that made velocity from 1125-1250fps in 124gr and 950-1100fps in 147gr in 25fps increments so I could compare the charge weights of each. Hesed, Thanks for the link I read the page and it lined up with a lot of stuff I've been reading. Pretty much from what I've read it seems like whatever powder uses the least amount of powder per weight produces the least amount of felt recoil. And it seems like N330 is about the fastest powder I can go with that will still get me up to the velocities I am looking for. There are some others close to it but I'm not sure how they compare. From the little I've read N330 seems to be fairly flash suppressant, and fairly clean. Anymore input on this would be great, as well as other powder recommendations. I also find many people talking about how they like the recoil impulse of a certain powder better. It seems like a lot of people really like Winchester powders for recoil unless it was just an odd coincidence that many people reported them as softer shooting. The BE-86 seems to be reported as being a little bit snappy compared to others even though it's charge weight is less then most of the +P powders. On paper BE-86 is probably one of the best from what I've read in the +P territory but since I am going to put all the time/money/effort into loading up the best rounds I can I would like to take advantage of the best materials possible for these loads. And lighter recoil and faster followup shots would be nice to have for this ammo.

Hey guys, after lots of Google searches it appears you guys give the best tech info of any forum and thought this would be the best place to come for help. I have a good bit of 124 and 147gr HST pulls I plan to load up to stash away and will also be loading up some FMJs of the same weight for practice. I am wanting to load somewhere around 9mm NATO / +P , and while there are tons of threads on 9mm Major/Minor there isn't as much on standard loads. My goal for the 124gr bullets is somewhere around 1175-1225fps, and for the 147's somewhere around 1000-1050ish or perhaps a little more if the powder can do it safely. I may also eventually load up some 115gr Gold Dots/RMR HP to around 1225-1275ish. What I am wanting out of a powder is - Something that will give the least recoil for faster follow up shots Something with a lower muzzle flash (no Power Pistol) but doesn't have to be the best at this Something fairly clean , but doesn't have to be the cleanest. I just don't want a really dirty powder Accuracy doesn't matter much as long as it's reasonable. How well it meters/throws doesn't matter to me because I will be throwing under and trickling each charge. I already have a good bit of CCI and Federal small pistol magnum primers so plan to use those. These rounds will be shot out of numerous handguns with stock barrels and will be loaded to be as reliable as possible meaning they will all be loaded just short enough to fit in the Gen 5 Glocks and CZ barrels. After doing lots of research online I know there are a lot of good powders out there for NATO/+P loads including BE-86, Silhouette, True Blue, CFE Pistol, WAC, W-572, N350, AA5, SW Major Pistol, SW Ultimate Pistol, etc. I already have a couple pounds of BE-86 and CFE Pistol from my initial research saying they were some of the best for +P loads. But since I am wanting to load up some rounds for the least recoil possible while achieving my goals above I am thinking there are better options then the BE-86 I have? Some powders that come to mind are N330, N340, Sport Pistol, SW Ultimate Pistol, SW Clean Shot. I am really leaning towards N330 but am not sure if there is something better for my purpose or not? I don't have any local powder suppliers so I have to place an order for my powder/primers which means it's only worth it to order a lot at one time and I don't want to order multiple 1 pound jugs to see what works best when I have years of experience from you guys and can just order the right powder from the start. Thanks for any help, it's greatly appreciated!