NateTheSkate

I have found that KKM hoods are oversized by quite a bit, and 0.030" is not outside the realm of possibility. Like WhiteDingo said, just double check your measurements and go for it.

Just FYI, It looks like some of the screws on your thumb rest/optics mount might be backing out.....they look like they are loose.

Is there no love for the EoTech sights? You can get them with a BDC reticle for .223 or .308...

Fair enough. I was assuming that you would be shooting supersonic ammo, and thus both would be loud. Personally I would still go with the .223/5.56, but I guess we can agree to disagree. If I ever had to shoot someone in my home, I think I would be so jacked on adrenaline I probably wouldn't even notice the noise, not until later anyway. I remember when I used to hunt waterfowl a lot, I could always tell when I was shooting at ducks that were out of range when the shots sounded loud; when the birds were close I was too excited to notice.

Why would you go with 9mm over .223/5.56? The rifle is going to have better stopping power and, as previously stated, is LESS of an overpenetration issue than pistol calibers. Firing an SBR in an enclosed space is always going to be unpleasant (to say the least) and will absolutely cause permanent ear damage. Shooting a rifle/shotgun outside is more than loud enough to cause permanent ear damage, and inside is going to be louder than outside. Even with a suppressor, firing supersonic ammunition is not "hearing safe". My point being that unless you are shooting subsonic ammo, I don't think there would be much of a difference between .223/5.56 suppressed and 9mm suppressed; they are both going to hurt, and are both going to cause permanent damage. Now if we leave off the suppressor, it would be a different story. The OP stated they would preferably suppress the weapon, and in this case I see no good reason not to go with .225/5.56.

The EGW ambi safeties are nice. Expensive, but nice. Novak also makes an ambi safety where the two sides are held together with a small roll pin. I have one, they aren't bad, but aren't the easiest to disassemble.

That nice, eh? That's good news i suppose, cause it's not like you have other options for magazines. It's factory mags or bust.

Why is 9mm CBC brass trash? I don't reload, i'm just curious as to what is wrong with it. CBC is, IIRC, the largest ammunition manufacturer in the world.

I know MBX makes springs for Tanfoglio mags. You can order them direct from MBX via their website, or Shooters Connection has them for sale here.

My understanding is that the .223/5.66 bullet destabilizes when passing through a barrier, even if that barrier is just drywall. As a result, the bullet doesn't carry it's energy as far as one might expect. Consequently, something like a PCC is going to carry more of an overpenetration risk than an AR. It sounds backwards, I know, but if you google it you will see that it has been tested over and over. There used to be an FBI report about overpenetration floating around, but I can't seem to find it now.

Not just your eyes! Arc welding produces lots of UV light, and will badly burn any exposed skin in relatively short order. Be sure to cover those arms!

That sounds like an issue with the follower, not the magazine (more specifically, the magazine body). Have you tried swapping the MecGar's guts out for something else?

I have the DeWalt one too, and it is worth it's weight in gold. I've never taken it to the range, or a match for that matter, but it sure is handy around the shop. As a matter of fact I can feel it's cool caress as I type this...

Leather can absolutely cause wear on a finish. Not to say leather is bad (I love it) but it can still mess things up if you don't keep it clean. In my experience, cleanliness is really the key. A dirty holster, regardless of what it is made of, will wear on the finish.

THIS ^^^ And a good stand isn't cheap, so don't forget to factor one in when setting your budget.

Would you say they are Magpul pmag type quality? Or, more like promag "quality".

No, the lugs were fitted.

Aluminum is quite soft, and it will dent and scratch and wear and I would be concerned about it not staying accurate. I would definitely shell out for the Deep River steel version. In my opinion, the 0.0001" increment blocks are overkill, you don't need to be that accurate. The 0.050" increment blocks seems a little coarse, but i suppose you could use them in conjunction with the 0.001" increment blocks. Honestly I get along just fine with gage pins only, I think you would be better of with pins in 0.001" increments up to 0.500". I have two sets, one is 0.061"-0.250" and the other is .251" - 0.500". They are "Vermont gage" brand, class ZZ, and are very nice. I would recommend getting the "Minus" tolerance pins, but in the end either will work just fine. Hmmm.... I don't see how that would work. see below. The "seam micrometer" is invaluable for making measurement "D" on the slide, and "C" on the frame. Gage Pins can be used to make "C" on the slide, and "D" on the frame. The "groove micrometer" I use for measuring the distance between locking lug recesses in the slide (the width of the lugs themselves can be measured with gage pins). These measurements are important for assessing tolerance stacking in the slide-to-barrel fit.

Yuck! That was a good catch on your part.

No, It is stainless steel. It is a real nice grip, but doesn't have a super-aggressive texture like some other grips do. I actually have 2 I am looking to get rid of. One is NIB, and the other has had some minor test fitting done, and i mean MINOR. They would make a sweet pair of matching guns. Trigger, mag release, and magwell are included. I think I even have a grip safety sitting around..... Yeah, this can work, but you will need an inside micrometer and some patience, it is not as fool-proof as the tool. I use mine all the time, just buy one! The gage pins definitely are, I use mine a lot. The blocks might be useful as well, it would depend on the size range. Another nice tool for measuring slide rails is a "seam micrometer." Both Mitutoyo and Starrett make them, check ebay for some good deals on used ones. The other tool I use a lot is the "groove micrometer." You will need a longer one, but if you get the appropriate size it is invaluable for measuring the slide lugs. The one I have is a Mitutoyo 146-232.

Hah! I like this guy's attitude.

The MSA Sordin Supreme headsets are nice. Peltor ComTacs are nice cans too. Expensive, but nice.

That is about all those are good for. I think scrap brass sells for something like $1.70 these days...

Any sort of pin or anything through that hole would run afoul of the barrel feet......I'm stumped, but now i'm curious.

Yes but you REALLY need to know your facts if you want to buy a gun as an investment. There were just shy of a dozen manufacturers, Winchester, Saginaw, Underwood, National postal meter.... Hell I.B.M. even made the things. Naturally some manufacturers are more desirable than others. Then you have to worry about things like the cartouches, and the date on the barrel has to match the receiver's serial number.... then all the small parts... are they original? was it rebuilt by an arsenal? which arsenal and how many times? Is it WWII pattern, or was it rebuilt for Korea? They are highly collectable and people know this, and a portion of those people are dishonest; it can be easy to loose your shirt if you don't know exactly what you are looking for. If you are interested in getting a rife as an investment, I would get Bruce Canfield's book and read it, and i mean really read it. If you just want one to shoot, then the cartouches and whatnot don't matter, and I would recommend looking for one that is in good shape for a good price, i.e. I would select one using the same criteria as you would any other used gun, and then just take it out and have fun with it. I've shot dozens and never have any of them had "reliability issues," I mean, I'm sure there are lemons out there, but all the usgi guns were well built, with quality materials. Even the "shooter" grade guns will appreciate significantly in value with time, assuming you don't let them get rusty. FWIW SGAmmo.com has Korean surplus .30 Carbine for sale for around 35 cents a round, which is a great price.