Camhabib
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Posts posted by Camhabib
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Appreciate the replies so far everyone. I should say that while I realize the draw is a small part of the stage, it’s one of the few things I’ve really been able to practice at home and get some actual metrics on to see if I’m making any progress. I’ve picked up a couple Stoeger books (including the dry fire) and have been doing lots of other exercises, but few others give me numbers to work with to compare my performance. Really looking forward to getting out there though.
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Complete beginner here, coming form the world of skeet shooting. Since I haven't been able to attend my first match yet, I've been doing some dry firing at home, working on both my draw and trigger pull. I have a Mantis X10 that I've been using to improve what I can from home, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind of numbers I should be shooting for (pun intended). According to my data, from buzzer to shot fired on target (with hands starting above the head), I'm about 1.9-2 seconds (see bellow). I just picked up the Ben Stoeger book and have been going through it, but I'd love to know how horrible my numbers are compared to others. According to the software, the various times are defined as:
- Grip: time from the start beep to when your hand grips the gun
- Pull: how long it takes you to pull the firearm out of the holster
- Horizontal: time from the pull to when the gun is drawn and rotated to horizontal alignment
- Target: how long it takes you to get on target after getting the gun horizontally
- Shot: time from being on-target to when the shot breaks
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Just now, George16 said:
I am not getting hung up on the example you used. I asked you if you had experience being on a flight deck and you resort to name calling. That simple question can be answered by a yes or no and you can’t even do that.
Im done with you. Sorry mods.
No, as a doctor, I don't. But I do have a good amount of experience with medicine, which I feel like hearing may have a bit to do with.
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15 minutes ago, George16 said:
No, my service didn’t left me with a slight reading impediment, rather it allowed me to differentiate between fluff and substance.
Pro tip: your point is better illustrated if you correct your post to “leave” not “didn’t left me.”
It wasn’t an analogy (which is a comparison) but rather a wild thing called an “example” used to demonstrate that if we can find hearing protection against louder sound, we can find it against a softer sound. Replace “jets” with cell disruptor / homogenizer, industrial machine shop, top fuel dragster, etc. I don’t understand why you’re getting hung up on the particular example I picked but, that seems an issue outside the scope of this discussion.
All this is to say, the engineers at 3M, Bose, Honeywell, numerous other companies, and academic labs (of which I posted an journal paper from) all say that, used correctly, level dependent hearing protection is safe. On the other hand, we have some shady at best anecdotal evidence from 2-3 people arguing they aren’t.
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Have you been on a flight deck of an aircraft carrier launching jets during flight ops? The flight deck crew don’t use electronic muffs or plugs. They use the US Navy Flight Deck Crewman Sound Attenuating Helmet Assembly which we call “Cranial” because it squeezes our cranium. There are two type of these, one is wired for used with sound powdered phones used for communications with the damage control lockers and backup to the electronic Radio Cranial also known as Hydra Helmet while the other is passive. Majority of the flight deck crew wear the passive ones and this is the main reason why they use hand signals to communicate with each during flight ops.
The only people using electronic muffs (Radio Cranial or Hydra Helmet) is the LSO (Landing Signal Officer) so he can talk to the people (especially Air Boss And Mini Boss who directs flight deck ops) in the island.
In my 21 years in the Navy working with jet engines, never had I been issued with an electronic ear muff or plug other than the ones I talked about above.
So I guess it’s really a full moon out of something on your end.
I can only assume your “years in the navy” left you with a slight reading impediment. I wasn’t speaking about level-dependent heading protectors, but rather commenting on how one (very bright with a $1700 analyzer) user said there is “no level of protection” suitable for an open gun. But sure, please continue about “full moon on my side” (do we need an astronomy lesson next?). -
1 hour ago, zzt said:
Oy vey yourself. My expertise and $1700 audio analyzer says the study you posted above in not necessarily;y accurate in all aspects. I can tell you that in one venue I shoot at, there is no level of hearing protection an RO can wear that protects their hearing with Open guns.
I'll also note that I would love to know what the H9 earplugs were. I want some.
Lol, yes, what’s a peer reviewed journal article from a research laboratory in an impact factor rated journal to your analyzer. Crazy how we can find ear protection against jets taking off from aircraft carriers but not open guns, which apparently “no level of hearing protection” could suffice.Is it a full moon out or something?
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He, and you, are most certainly not correct. Your volume setting has no bearing at all on anything under 85dB. Your electronic muffs are essentially microphones with an attenuation circuit built in to limit loud sounds to 85dB. So if the muffs attack time is 1/2 second as the original questioner posited, you hear the FULL dB level of the report until the attack time is reached. After that you only hear 85dB of the original sound. The 20-30 millisecond attack times of analog muffs are not fast enough to prevent you from hearing the initial wave front at full volume. Electronics with much faster attack (reaction) times are better.
Oy vey.
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Most of this is exactly spot on... Except, the truth of the matter is ALL currently available electronic ear pro is bad, and even a response time of 1 to 5 milliseconds is way too slow to prevent the transient sounds (like a snare drum crack, or a gunshot report) from causing hearing damage. All electronic ear pro works off of electronic and/or digital compression/limiting to do what they do, except the compression/limiting algorithms they incorporate are basically s**t compared to what they'd have to be to truly "catch" a transient sound before it could do any damage. It really doesn't matter what you spend on electronic ear pro either, whether $50 for the Impact Sports you see at every match, or $350+ on the latest bluetooth enabled rechargeable earbuds, they're all a bit gimmicky in a way, since they might let you hear range commands easier or allow you to pump tunes from you iPhone into them, but none of that is actually protecting your hearing as best as possible.
If you really want to protect your hearing you want PASSIVE ear pro, the electronic stuff just isn't fast enough.
Just for good measure so I don't have to deal with reading any more insanity: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6651885/
"The results of the assessment of level-dependent hearing protectors demonstrated that it is possible to adequately protect the hearing of a shooting instructor who is at an indoor shooting range when using protectors of this type. It is possible to choose hearing protectors, both earmuffs and earplugs, that will sufficiently reduce the impulse noise to which the instructor is exposed."
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Just got a Range Panda cover in for my SRO and it’s great. Fits snug, feels like it would actually provide some protection in case of a hit, and wasn’t expensive at all.
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Whatever you do, don’t buy from OpticsPlanet. Ordered an in stock item a few weeks ago that said “ships in 1 business day.” Took a week to get a tracking number for the package, and it’s been a week since that and they still haven’t actually shipped it. Called up today since they disabled their chat function and they aren’t picking up their phone, and say that they aren’t allowing voicemails either. Current turnaround time on email for them is over a week.
I’d go for B&H, they typically ship much sooner than they estimate and are great to work with. -
Thanks all for the suggestions. Wound up picking up some DAA Racers and a DAA Premium Belt. The Blue Alpha belt looks a lot nicer but it just doesn’t seem like it’ll work out.
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7 hours ago, Hdiamond said:
DAA does have a wide belt adapter for the new Alpha-Xi pouches available, though it's showing out of stock... and the Alpha Xi are expensive and pretty new.
Something with a Bladetech TekLok or DOTS mount may end up working better with the big belt. RHT makes good kydex mag pouches that use this mounting method, although the drawback to TekLok/Dots is it does cover a lot of velcro. A tip I got was you can get strips of velcro with adhesive backing off amazon or whatever and attach that to the inner side of the mount. I have yet to try this, because my velcro just showed up, but the theory is pretty sound.
I used to use the DAA Race Masters, and switched to the RHT pouches, immediately got less binding. The Alpha-X and Alpha-Xi, along with the racer pouches, don't have this problem but the racers are out of the running with the belt size you've got.
I saw the Alpha Xi but at $320 for a set of 4 with the belt adapters, it’s just a bit too rich for my blood right now.
The only pouches I’ve been able to find that work on a 1.75” out of the gate are the Ghost 360, which seem to have questionable reviews from some. I do like the idea of glueing on some velcro to increase attachment surface area to the inner belt, just wish there were more packages that supported this belt width. Is there a reason why 1.75” just doesn’t seem at all popular?
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After considering all the options, I went with the Double Alpha Racer mag pouches. The one feature that the Racers have that others don't is the slimmest belt attachment bracket. Hugely important for me. I shoot Production so I run 5 pouches and I am lean so the pouches take up over a 1/4 of the belt on my left side. The small footprint of the brackets ensure good contact between the inner and outer belts.
They have all the other bells and whistles of all the top race pouches. One other thing for me is that they're bullets out configurable.
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Appreciate it. Sadly, I’ve been looking and it doesn’t seem like they’d fit on my belt since it’s 1.75”. -
Are any of these compatible with a 1.75” belt or are they all limited to 1.5”?
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So I’ve been slowly collecting my gear preparing to try my hand at USPSA and and IDPA with a P320 Legion. Picked up a Blue Alpha Double Belt Rig (1.75”), a GX Products holster, but I’m now stuck at the last peice, mag pouches. There are just so many options, and without any experience, they all seem the same. Wondering if someone with a bit more experience than me could break down what some of the differences are, and what an affordable but quality option would be?
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Thanks everyone. I should probably updated: I purchased both the 2.5 and 5MOA and the 5 was the clear winner. The 2.5 was far too small and had a lot more distortion to the dot due to my astigmatism.
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He’s the OP [emoji38].
I don’t understand why he’s talking about the Sig cases now since he was talking about a Pelican case.
Sorry, let me clarify. Sig case is just a couple pieces of egg carton foam. Pelican case can’t be modified to fit a pistol with a sight. So I’m looking for options, for either a case just for this pistol, or to fit all of them including this one.
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Reading this over, there seems to be lots of discussion as to what the "best" distance to zero your red dot at is. Some suggest doing it at 25 yards, while others say 10-15. I'm curious what people suggest for a zero distance and why?
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An Exacto knife will make it fit.
So the Sig cases are absolute crap. Not fitted foam, just two pieces of egg crate foam you sandwich the gun and magazines and everything else between. The hinge pins constantly fall out, latches are flimsy, it’s just junk. It’ll fit in with the dot attached, but I don’t expect the case would last more than one or two range trips without breaking. -
Trying to find a case to fit a P320 with RDS. I have a large Pelican case with custom foam insert to store the remainder of my pistols, but the optic makes it too tall. Thoughts?
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I have a bad astigmatism and after looking through a few RDS, the SRO was the best looking of the bunch. Only one that had an actual usable dot.
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I started out shooting skeet so closing one eye feels horribly unnatural to me. Sometimes I lose the sight picture but as someone else said, a slight squint with my non dominant eye always helps pick it right back up.
For anyone who wants, they make a product called Magic Dots that are words better than scotch tape or chapstick if you’re trying to transition.
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After being into skeet shooting for the past couple years, I decided to switch things up and try my hand at IDPA and USPSA shooting. I’ve shot pistols for years, but mostly just out back plinking for kicks and giggles. In an effort to take things a bit more seriously, I picked up a P320 Legion and now have a few questions about how to set this pistol up to best suit my needs.
1 - Red dot. I already have a Springer RMR adapter installed which required a tiny bit of filing and a couple taps with a mallet to get into place. I’ve decided on an SRO, just not what MOA. It seems the camp is pretty split between 2.5 and 5.
2 - Grip tape. My hands get sweaty for sure, even on the coldest days. I usually shoot with gloves on but I’d love to find a way to enhance the grip. There are a few options as far as tapes and treatments go, but not many reviews comparing them. Talon tape, Springer grip tape, silicon carbide treatment, etc. I’ve already added a GoGun *thumb rest [generic]*, but what would be the next best step?
3 - Holster. I have a solid belt, but now need a holster to go on it. I like the Black Scorpion Pro HD holster but there aren’t many reviews on it. Lots of positive reviews on the Red Hill Tactical but not much info on what attachment system to go with.
4 - Anything else I should look into?
Anti Fog for Anti Reflective Lenses
in Gear & Accessories
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Really bad idea to do this. Toothpaste is a fine abrasive (which is how it cleans your teeth). Putting this on an optical surface will create marring and fine scratches.
The science behind a lot of these solutions is that they reduce surface tension, creating a layer of water instead of drops of water which cause diffraction of light. Anything that leaves a film of detergent will ideally do this, but many will also inadvertently negatively effect the resolving ability of the optics.