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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. In case anyone finds this useful. Use at your own risk.
  2. In case anyone finds this helpful. Use at your own risk.
  3. Pretty sure that I just answered my own question... managed to find a member that had a some B and D flags spread throughout their current 6 averaged classifications, and it appears B and D flags do not count towards the 8 most recent.
  4. That's how I feel shooting classifiers sometimes!
  5. Edit: Pretty sure that I just answered my own question... managed to find a member that had a some B and D flags spread throughout their current 6 averaged classifications, and it appears B and D flags do not count towards the 8 most recent. I show two classifiers today and I'm working to get to B in Open. One classifier was a 59.01% and I intentionally zeroed the other one after taking a follow-up shot on a Virginia count classifier. I also did a reshoot of that 59.01% and had a malfunction, so that will get a D flag. Here's what my classification record looks like as of today. My question is whether or not the 66% will fall off at the bottom in addition to the 48% or just the 48% with the pending B flag, D flag, and 59.01% today? Assuming I don't end up losing the 66%, then I should up with a 60.43% after the classifiers are uploaded and the program is run.
  6. Totally sure it is the 9mm side. I've tried the 38 Super side before and because the sleeve ridge that crimps is not as far down you end up having to screw the microcrimp down all the way before it even starts touching a 9mm case. Apparently, this is a known issue with the Redding microadjustable crimp dies based on the previous post that @HOGRIDERwas nice enough to provide from Redding. I just find it interesting it happens on the 9mm die and not my 40 S&W adjustable crimp die.
  7. For sure the crimp die and it is only the 9mm Redding microcrimp. No issues with the 40 Redding microcrimp. I also have no sticking with the 9mm Dillon & Redding taper crimp dies (the one without the micrometer).
  8. Good to have the validation. Thank you! Funny that it only happens on the 9mm microcrimp and not the 40 one. My 40 is as smooth as can be. To your point the regular Dillon and Redding taper crimp dies to not have the thump.
  9. I've had some of the T brass and I usually chuck it. From memory I recall the flash hole being very small to the point where it would pull a decapping rod out my die. Norma brass is very good. Don't throw that away.
  10. I love the Redding dies. I use the Competition set for 9mm, 40, and 357. I use the microcrimp for 40 and it is very smooth to crimp with. How smooth is your 9mm microcrimp? For some reason, mine jerks when removing the case from the die. It is very noticeable and has made me revert back to using the Redding taper crimp die for 9mm, which is also excellent.
  11. The Everglades MRH is a phenomenal holster that has fit every 2011/1911 that I've used it with. Very smooth draw compared to the DA Alpha-X. You can get an Alpha-X running somewhat smoothly with some filing here and there on the block, but from my experience it is always hit or miss and really benefits when you use the muzzle support. Not that the Alpha-X is bad, but the MRH is just a different level.
  12. Pretty common issues with the Dillon seating plugs for 40 and 9mm and truncated cone bullets. I'm not familiar with the Blue Bullets profile, but if they are remotely round nosed, I would suggest you seat with the round nose side of the plug. There are certain dies like the Redding Competition Seating die that ONLY seat using the ogive. The issue with the Dillon flat nose side of the seating plug is run out and it is very easy to seat a bullet that isn't straight. Does it matter in the long run? According to some articles like this one (https://americanhandgunner.com/gear/crooked-seated-bullets-and-accuracy/), it does not.
  13. I don't think they are different from any other press. When I received my XL750 last year, I fought with primers being crushed and not seated deep enough for months. Turns out the primer punch was just very slightly off from the shell plate. All it required was turning the primer slide screw a bit more so the primer slide went further and aligned with the shell plate. As everyone knows shell plate tension on the XL750/650 is very important. If not tight enough then you end up with all kinds of weird issues. My point being that every press has its own complexities and tuning required that requires a shakedown before you're running optimally. Taking apart a press (at least the shell plate, priming, etc.) to get more confident with how it operates has helped me and getting my Apex 10 stood up and finely tuned. Some of it has been Mark7 being newer to the game than Dillon, where the core of the 650/1050 design hasn't changed significantly in years, but from what I have seen Mark7 has been good at addressing those issues when they arise and sending customers new parts (like the primer disk for the Apex10).
  14. Do you have a primer pocket gauge? If not I recommend that you get one. I’ve also found out that I shouldn’t confuse brass with small/tight primer pockets with brass that is crimped. The swager will fix the latter but not the former. I received my Apex 10 a couple of weeks ago and it took awhile to get swaging working reliably. The shell plate should only flex minimally (1/16th of an inch). When you first set it up, you will probably see the swage rod lift the case and shell plate if you don’t have the hold down die setup aggressively enough. I had to add more hold down to the point where I see the hold down touch the shell plate spring without a case. Probably over 1-1.5 turns after I felt resistance from the case web. I also had issues seating primers early on. I can only recommend that you keep the disk as clean as possible and have the primer punch flush against the bushing when it is in the rest position. You should also check your shell plate tightness and index. You should not be able to rotate the shell plate with one hand. If you can then the nut needs to be tighter. The shell plate should have zero to very little flex (press down with your fingers at Station 10). If you see your shell plate move AT ALL to the left or right when the toolhead lowers then your index needs to be fixed per the directions in the manual.
  15. Thanks for the feedback from everyone. I ended up going the Mark 7 route. DAA had them in stock at the end of last week, and I pulled the trigger. Placed the order on Wednesday and received it Saturday. Went Apex 10 for a number of reasons: Recent price increases from Dillon - by the time you factor in the upgrades for the 1100 like a CNC toolhead and some other parts, you're approaching Apex 10 territory. Separate stations for expansion and swaging on the Apex 10 - as I'll describe below this is my 1st time setting up swaging and hold down on a press (coming from an XL750). Would be a lot more difficult to deal with expansion and swaging on the same station with an 1100/1050. 9 real stations on the Apex 10 vs 6 on the 1100 (or 7 with the CNC toolhead) - if I want to put a bullet feeder and a powder check on the Apex 10 down the road, no problem. On the RL1100 I would have to give up a powder check or move seating and crimping to the same station. My only concern going with the Apex 10 was support and ease of setup compared to Dillon. I'll say the press came 99% tuned from the factory. Had it setup in a few hours and took another day of playing around, setting up dies, and fine tuning. @SSGJohnV and others on the FB Mark7 reloading group have been very helpful, as well as the videos that Mark7 has on YouTube. The only things that I've had to adjust were swaging (which comes completely turned off) and primer depth. I had a couple of crushed primers, but it was tied to me adjusting the swaging more aggressively or me seating too deep. I did have some binding on the primer disk, but that quickly cleared up after cycling the press a few times. The case feeder also feels a lot more solid than the Dillon. The only things that I've come across on the Mark7 that I'm not a fan of: The powder measure is a lot more complicated that the Dillon in good and bad ways. It is very smooth, but you really have to lock down the nut otherwise you will get drifts in your drops after 10-20 rounds. Adjustability is not as quick as the Dillon because of this. The baffle design also feels cheap. Basically, just a piece of metal that floats. Anytime you dump the measure you have to reset the baffle. It is also not as intuitive as the Dillon to setup, but that's me being new to the platform. Another place to hang a bin would be nice for bullets.
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