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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Ben53

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Everything posted by Ben53

  1. I've always found that shooting against or with better shooters will help improve, shooting against shooters of lower ability doesn't push you at all.
  2. No, you should not move to 9mm with that pistol. First, it's worth more than you can buy a good 9mm for, and you'd likely destroy that collector value. 2nd, 9mm works at a much higher pressure than .38 wadcutter, and I believe that pistol is also a blow-back operation, not a locked breech. Please don't try to make it into a 9mm. Possible? Probably, but not a good idea at all, in my opinion.
  3. I'm using the JW Systems ball bearing plate, I like it. Provides a bit more support than the short Dillon plate.
  4. Agree with the above; looks like something superficial in the finish. I don't see anything to worry about in the photo you provided.
  5. I'd been reloading for decades, but just started reloading 9mmP just a few short years ago. Was reloading on a 550, which I have had for about 20 years. Anyway, first box of reloads I took to the range for a fun shoot with some friends, I had a squib and stuck a jacketed bullet in the barrel. Very embarrassing!!! First squib I can remember in many, many years. That ended my shooting for the day, but I chalked it up to a learning experience, that you can never be too careful.
  6. Most factory 9mm barrels have fairly generous chambers, and I've never heard of a tight Glock chamber. My G34 isn't very picky, any well-made reload runs reliably through it. IMHO any good quality die set will work for you. Suggestion: even though it's a carbide or titanium-coated sizing die, consider using something like One-Shot lube on your brass for sizing. It will make things MUCH more smooth! I use a mix of liquid Lanolin and HEET and it works great.
  7. Bullseye... Unique is good but dirty. Bullseye was used in target loads for decades with 148 wadcutters. I know that's not what you're loading, but I think you'd have good success with bullseye. I've also used Red Dot with good results. Nice revolver. I do like Pythons. I had a 4" 686 but let it go; wish I'd kept it!
  8. I've had a couple done by Mahovsky's Metalife. I would use him again. Good work at a fair price. You might want to check him out.
  9. Interesting discussion here. I use Lubriplate on rails and barrel unlock bevel, and either light motor oil or light oil on internal parts. Has been working well. After a shoot I usually field strip and do a quick wipe-down and light re-lube, certainly not a detail cleaning. I'm using Sport Pistol which is very clean, and have never had any problems even here in North Carolina where things can get hot. May have to switch to Rotella! I know a lot of motorcycle riders swear by Rotella as an excellent lube and high wear resistance.
  10. I agree with copterdriver. I'm running a 13 lb spring in my SFx, 5.5 lb striker spring, and never had any problems going to battery. I'm thinking some sort of ammo issue also.
  11. I have, and have owned any number of .22 pistols from major US manufacturers (Colt, Browning, High Standard, S&W, Ruger), and my go-to for most plinking and informal target shooting these days is the Ruger 22/45 I have. Minor trigger work makes it great for the kinds of shooting I'm prone to do. It's accurate and reliable. The Mk II is a great pistol in itself, but the 22/45 fits my hand great, the balance is good, and it's hard for me to find anything wrong with it. Not saying I'd keep it and get rid of the rest, but I do like it a lot. If you've done much 1911 shooting I'd bet that you'll like it a lot too! I can't imagine any young person who enjoys shooting that wouldn't love to have one. Mine is not a lightweight; I find the lightweights are too hard to hold steady.
  12. Agree with Cuz, iron sights are better... learn how to shoot with them first. Will make him a better, more well-rounded shooter in the long run, IMHO.
  13. You might also try running a bore brush part way in from the chamber end, then pull it back out, hopefully bringing the case back with it. I've seen that work. Good luck. PLEASE DO NOT try to pry between the chamber and the case.. you will likely ruin the chamber of the barrel and have to replace it. Worst case scenario, visit a gunsmith.
  14. Wish I could help. I have and use CFE Pistol and like it, but don't have any 115 grain loads to share. Good luck.
  15. Take a look at these from NDZ: https://www.ndzperformance.com/NDZ-Glock-Gen-1-3-SST-Guide-Rod-17-22-24-31-34-35-p/ndz-glk-gro-g17.htm I use them and like them a lot. I have no interest in this company other than being a satisfied customer.
  16. Lots of good information there, thank you very much!! I've noticed the factory trigger parts not lasting, I think they're MIM parts. Did not know about the firing pins, so appreciate that, as well as the trigger info.
  17. I'm watching this thread, I have the same RIA handgun with 4 factory mags. According to reviews at Taylor, the extensions fit and work fine on these magazines, so I may buy one to try... never hurts to have a couple more rounds in the magazine, eh?
  18. Roudyb has good suggestions. I keep a small cooler full of water bottles and use Propel in them to help with electrolytes/hydration. I have to drink a LOT!! I turn 68 in September and can't handle the heat like I used to... and it sucks.
  19. I like a thin coat of something slippery in those contact/slide areas. I usually use Lubriplate as I have plenty of it.
  20. I had no luck with an aftermarket connector when I installed mine (Gen 4 G34), but with the original factory connector the Timney worked perfectly, and the trigger pull was good. You might want to try that.
  21. I run my fired brass/range pick-up through a Lee APP to deprime only. Same set-up works for both 9mm and .40 S&W, just have to adjust the height of the case feed. Then a trip through the FART with SS media, separate and dry in dehydrator. This takes very little time. Then light lube with something like One-Shot (I use a homemade version) and sizing, priming, etc. is all done on the press. Light lube doesn't even need to be removed. It's fast and keeps my brass and press very clean.
  22. First, make sure you get all the lead out of the bore. Once leading starts, it grows fast. Next, if you have a .356" bore then you should be good with same size bullets, although it's common practice to shoot .001 or .002" oversized in many handguns. With lead, that won't hurt a thing, and you can consider any "coated" bullet, like Blue Bullets, to load the same as plain lead. Jacketed is a different story, and you'd want to stick with .356 if at all possible. I'm not sure about jacketed, but there are a number of companies making coated bullets that will size them to .356.
  23. +1 on the SwampFox Justice.
  24. I have to agree with Hiker88. I shoot both Canik TP9SFx and Glocks, and like both. I look forward to getting my hands on one of these as soon as I can and wringing it out! Will be interesting to see how things develop. I do like that it uses Glock magazines as they're everywhere...
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