Rjz5400

Yea here in the SW where we have the moon dust I clean every mag that hits the dirt, every time... Rifle shotgun pistol doesn't matter. It helps to have multiples for every length so you can clean at home later.

Ordered a hs512c wish me luck thanks for the tips. No shipping or tax 250 here https://www.simmonssportinggoods.com/holosun-hs512c-hs-classic-1x-65-moa-ring-2-moa-red-dot-black-cr2032-lithium/

A friend at rm3g found the buffer tube had a bunch of that packing grease from the factory, slowing the spring down a lot and causing feeding issues. I've not heard that before but it's something we came up with and it fixed the cycling and feeding issues.

A friend at rm3g found the buffer tube had a bunch of that packing grease from the factory, slowing the spring down a lot and causing feeding issues. I've not heard that before but it's something we came up 2ith and it fixed the cycling and feeding issues.

Yea I think I'm in the minority, I'd did lots of the inspecting and debugging found in the megathread before even firing a shot. It's run 99.9 out of the box after some cleaning and tuneing. No break in and only has issues if I drop the mags into moon dust out here in NM. Holosun 512c is looking like a possibility and running the zero a little further out so I don't have such a drastic rise and fall in my Poi vs my POA ..

It does seem like the holosun/eotech circle+ dot would help with the holds, like bottom edge, center, top edge for various distances.

Kinda kicking myself I didn't grab one the other day from psa, were like 250. No height over bore prob with that big of an optic? For birdshot I mean

anyone in here also using the VR80 for 3 gun Open obv.? im having BIG trouble with optics and accuracy. I am very used to a standard dropped and offset stock and shooting a bead = height over bore = zero. used to shoot my m3k one for one for a whole match! now i had a stage with 7 missed clays! Ive tried a direct mount vortex viper and using a riser to keep my head more upright (separate fitting issue). and recently when my optic went down i tried shooting just over the rail and couldn't make any hits at 5 or 10 yards. considered holosun 512c and using no optic it's mostly a height issue, what optics have people found work? what distance do you center your spread pattern at? how do you deal with having your cheek above the bore so much? i'm not interested in advise like " its a shotgun point and shoot" I and I hope may others may be shooting 3 to 15 moa targets that must break or knockdown at ranges from 5 to 50 yards and even much further, so if that's not you thanks for reading and keeping outside opinions outside. ( last bit was added for a FB group but if matches you shoot don't have "precision targets" the strategy may not crossover)

What good advise, I did find a sheet of free stainless from a buddy and do quite a bit of practice. I was able to roll 4 corner tacks toward the outside and get both the height and width out of them. More than a fair bit of filing later and its back to full function dry. Once I lube it up if it continues to drag anywhere I may lap it in with some paste but I don't want it to get loose again and start over. So for now I'm done! Fun fact my Tig welder on DC only goes down to about 11 amps, witch is good enough for 22-18 stainless. If you are real careful. Man I can't make files small enough for this forum

That's good enough for me! Looks like the bows are only 25$? So if it blows out I can try again

Yea for sure I was thinking a front and rear "button" on each corner, might even be able to add the height and width with 4 tacks. Ltdmstr have you done it or welding experience ?

Oh yea that too is an option, thanks. I'll consider it. I've not done much structural solder. Plenty I mean PLENTY or electrical though I wonder if the alumiloy the aluminum brazing rod like the harbor freight blowtorch deal might not be silver solder. I think it is. Although Tig welding does not require the same amount of cleanliness as brazing/solder that's for sure.

My experience and complaint about building on bmf frame grip is logged here, if you want a "reliable" ie loose fit drop in build go for it!

My experience and complaint about building on bmf frame grip is logged here, if you want a "reliable" ie loose fit drop in build go for it!

I ended up buying a Lyman trim die. It sure seems like a small base die, very easy in and out of my guage! It was 45$ shipped from precision reloading. Steel and came with both lock rings.

So I am seriously considering adding some material to my bow to take up a lot of slack in the vertical direction of my trigger. All I have read involver buying a new trigger, none are big enough, or peening to stretch a bit. I don't think any amount of peen will take up 1/8 vertical and 1/8 horizontal. Also I feel like peening with be just as if not more likely to warp the overall shape. I'm open to being wrong about that. At first I thought I was having trigger freeze or short stroking the very short Tigger but after careful examination I can "stall" the trigger by pressing downwards as I press rearwards. This happens 100% of the time if you add downward pressure while pulling. It's not often but on over barricade targets or very close to the ground and sometimes after a reload I was stalling the trigger ( bow lifts when shoe presses down and the back of the bow jams against the frame) which was confirmed after a detail strip by witness marks on both the bow and the frame. To get ahead of your questions it is basically due to the black mountain firearms frame having enormous dimensions basically everywhere, and a combination of my trigger shoe choice (extra short) and what I think is lazy machining on the frame where it broaches the trigger guard. The trigger bow track isn't close to holding the bow vertically and the shoe opening is open air at the top so the trigger has room to pivot a few degrees. To be fair my friend who has the same frame grip almost was very very happy to have it "drop in" but meanwhile I was so disappointed at Every fitting area bieng undersized or oversized respectively making it impossible to get the tight fit I was after in building a custom 2011. The rails 8ty pe r centers, trigger track and guard area, grip to frame, were all loose. I used a lot of bearing retainer and locktight along with a heavy cerrekote *sp job to take some of it up. I also added a set screw to my trigger bow to at least limit the total vertical play on it to an extent. Bottom line I have a Tig machine, I'm setup for stainless, and I understand the refitting that will be involved. My question is does anyone have experience with this bow or welding any 1911 or2011 bow? My plan is to use a copper buck to work off of and possibly laywire technics to add 4 buttons to the top of the bow and then possibly to the outside edges also to prevent "twist" as the track is too wide as you can imagine. Picture the pistol versions of a '"hotdog down a hallway" Thanks for reading and your experience. Atlas, shooters connection, and geppert GPI? did not have any experience or technical info about the bow or my idea. Geppert is in Germany and didn't respond to my English email request for info regarding metallurgy or best practice. Lastly I realize the stud for the adjustable shoe is welded from the factory. Pics if I take some fresh ones maybe tomorrow

Nice, that's a good idea mostly for those outer 2 dies. I use a lot of Lee dies that are redicuolous long like the Dillon ones

Has anyone just ground down a regular toolhead?

Wanna triway in 223? I expand necks anyway and tumble after prep so the giruad is going out the door. Handling ever case again or ever is a thing of the past. I tried all the tricks I just couldn't grip 223 for more than 30 min at a time to trim with the triway.

I have no problem dedicating a toolhead to trimming, it sure looks like a few minutes with the grinder could magically transform a normal dillon toolhead into a "short" trim one. anybody notice any other difference like in the webbing or supports? seems like it just needs more clearance to get the trimmer down right?

I've heard since starting to look into it some people use 38 special or 9mm seating or crimping dies. It does seem a bit confusing. Thanks

So other than the crimp die (if needed) people can just use regular .38/.357/"38super"? This might be a game changer for me as I already load 38 special for my revolver so I have those dies.

Anybody have luck after removing the bolt hold lever and clipping the firing pin spring? Using both JP lightened springs I mean. I've read a few places that the hammer hits the tab for the bolt hold open, and that clipping 3 or 4 coils from the very stiff FP spring helps if you use lighter springs for the trigger and hammer. I have jp yellow and also bull moose tactical springs. Thoughts?

There is the "it's unloaded!" attitude, and it's problem. One of the 4 basic rules is Treat All Guns As Loaded All The Time. Another Don't Point The Muzzle at Anything You Aren't Willing To Destroy. Seems simple to me and I encounter it out of 150 shooters maybe once or more. Rules or no rules don't point a gun at me or anyone else, ever. Easy I just wanted to edit and add that I myself taken a trip to dairy queen, with good reason and have seen others DQ also. Just saying that the goal should be to start from the 4 basic rules of safe gun handling and if only 1 is broken at a time, no-one gets shot. I like that margin of error for the deadly weapons we use for the sport/game. "It's empty!" Comes up way too often

Ended up cutting off the rail section right under my hand from the top, it made the grip smaller and more round, I may do the front one also, there is a big airgap anyway so it doesn't really make it weaker I think.