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George

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    Shotgun Stage Library

    in Multi-gun Rules / Stage Design / Match Administration

    Posted

    OK, I finally got a chance to restore a stage library listing on the server. I made it a catch all multi-gun stage listing. I am still looking through my disk archives for all of the previous content and will upload it as/when I find it. I posted all the stages I could pull together quickly to get things started. If anyone wants to contribute any designs, email them to me - bayarearifle at g mail dot com

    Multi-Gun Stage Library

    Rifle only USPSA Style Match

    in Other Shooting Sports

    Posted

    Richmond Rod & Gun Club holds 2 club level multi-gun matches per year along with a championship level rifle only match in late July and a championship level shotgun only match in late September.




    Bay Area Rifle Championship Website: http://www.3gunrules.com



    California Action Shotgun Challenge FB Page: https://www.facebook.com/CalActionSgChallenge

    Any Old School Motorcycle Racers Out There?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    Just to whet your whistle, here is an on-board video from 2008 of my friend Carlos Neves winning an AFM Formula II race on his 2006 RS250. Most of the rest of the bikes in this race are TZ250's. The RS250 when properly tuned is a formidable racing machine.

    Part 1: Here Carlos leaves all the other 2T's behind pretty quick

    Part 2: In second half of race he starts slicing through the 4T bikes started jn a second wave from different class.

    Infineon Raceway in Sonoma, CA

    Any Old School Motorcycle Racers Out There?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    Also, parts are still available at Rising Sun Cycles in New England and from Accu-Products in Ohio. They specialize in GP machines and can always get stuff the OEM Honda dealers cannot get.

    Redline PowerSports is also a good GP parts source but usually pricier than the ones above.

    http://www.redline-ci.com

    Service intervals are 300 miles on top end piston, wrist pin, circlips and bearing). Bottom end (crank, seals and main bearings) need service at 1200-1300 miles (this means full replace). These intervals are based on full race type use. With proper care and easy riding mode (revs kept under 12.5k and not flogging it) these intervals can be extended to 500+ on topend and 1600+ on lower.

    Trans usually only needs service once in a great while if at all if it is good shape to start. 300 miles is a lot on a racetrack, usually 3-5 track days minimum.

    Any Old School Motorcycle Racers Out There?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    Don't warmup with static rev constantly, blip throttle continuously after about 20 seconds at static 4-5k revs. Do blips to take revs to about 6-7k, repeat until temp is at or above 50c before riding. Then run easy on revs until it's above 55c before revving it out al the way (12.5k should be considered rev limit especially on an unknown engine condition). BTW, there is no idle mode on these bikes, it will stop running if you close throttle, thats the way they are designed.

    Use the Maxima for storage procedure fuel run as I mentioned earlier. It is not designed for the revs and stresses these bikes put on the bearings, specifically the rollers in lower end and the piston. If they don't roll the engine is toast.

    If you do decide to test ride it with the Maxima, limit revs to under 10k, maybe even 9k. But you won't appreciate this bike until it revs past 10k.

    These GP racers are indeed particular in their care and feeding, but there is nothing else like them in this world. Once you ride one the way it was intended you will never be happy riding anything else fast.

    Any Old School Motorcycle Racers Out There?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    You can run on any good leaded gas 105 octane or better. Use 28:1 premix ratio, Castrol A747 is best choice but hard to find now. Motul 8002T roadrace is best choice 2T oil nowadays.

    VP gas stations usually carry several options in leaded high octane. Make sure to drain carbs and tank after riding if not using again soon. Also good idea to put a teaspoon of standard motor oil into each sparkplug hole after draining premix, then rotate engine throughly to distribute oil as most race pre-mixes not good for longtime rust prevention.

    Another good way to properly lube internals after running with race gas is to use a small amount of outboard motor (non-synthetic) premix at 25:1 after draining race mix and run engine for a couple minutes at med low revs to get internals lubed. Don't ride bike using this mixture, lube purposes only.

    BTW, always warm up to at least 50c temp before riding and don't rev all the way out till engine is fully warmed.

    Also, if you will only ride it sparingly on street, then make sure to fill cooling system with high quality auto-motive coolant, not anti-freeze. This can be left in for storage to prevent cooling system corrosion. But for track use, always flush coolant with distilled water and run only 100% distilled water, or distilled water with Redline Water Wetter mix as tracks will not allow regular coolant to be used.

    Any Old School Motorcycle Racers Out There?

    in Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum

    Posted

    Hardest part will be restoring the engine finish

    Very difficult to restore finish on engine cases and cylinders while they are assembled. Best result I have seen was after a complete teardown, wash cases with very hot water and simple green cleaner. Use a stiff bristle toothbrush to scrub and then dry after final hot water rinse and then finish with compressed air to blow all cases passages dry. Make sure any non-removeable steel dowel pins and insert areas are oiled afterwards to prevent rust. Same for cylinders, just make sure to heat dry them ASAP after final rinse in oven at very low temp for 1/2 hour to dry completely, then do a solvent rinse to prevent any rust.

    If cases are heavily tarnished from aluminum oxidization, using a very fine steel wool or even better use a ScotchBrite pad to polish external surfaces while doing hot water and simple green wash should bring the aluminum finish back again by removing the roughness caused by heavy oxidization pitting. Do not use steel wool or scotch brite pad on internal case areas.

    BTW, having the original factory Comstar wheels with it greatly increases it's collector value status. Looks like yours is a real gem :-)

    BTW, BTW, Homestead Florida has a nice racetrack and there are track day providers who run riding events there. There is also a good track in Barber Alabama and the Road Atlanta track in Georgia, all in your neck of the woods (close enuff anyway)

    Make Apple LED Cinema Display 24-Inch work with Mac G5 Tower

    in Macintosh

    Posted

    You can also use the cheaper standard Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter if you get a DVI female to female coupler.

    Here is an apple discussion forum about that.

    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1752411?start=0&tstart=0

    The $29 Apple MDP to DVI adapter can be found here.

    http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB570Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dvi-adapter

    F-F DVI couplers can be found here.

    http://www.sfcable.com/30DV-03400.html?c=dvi-adapters

    NIGHTMARE LOADING 223 !

    in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment

    Posted

    Any brand dies should work fine with 550B even though I highly recommend the Dillon .223 die set.

    First off, are you using the proper shell plate buttons for .223? The .223 ones look very close to the 9mm ones but they are NOT the same and cases will have a sloppy fit if you do not use the proper locating buttons on the shell plate,

    Check this first as it is the most likely issue I can think of.

    OK Appleheads what gives?

    in Macintosh

    Posted

    Is there a way in Safari -- on a PC -- to import bookmarks or favorites from other browsers? That's what's really keeping me from giving Safari a whirl; it looks like it could be a good and cool browser, but I don't want to start over if I don't have to....

    I haven't tried this in PC version of safari, but File menu should show an import bookmarks function, at least on mac versions it does ;)

    Other way to go, export from IE bookmarks in HTML, safari will import HTML bookmarks fine on all platforms.

    Hope this helps

    Accurate # 7

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    When I ran 147's in my Glock 17L I used 5.0gr to get 130PF. OAL used and your "actual" bullet diameter will cause powder charge needed to get to 135PF to vary quite a bit. Could be as little as 5.2 to 5.4gr to as much as 6.8gr, all depending.

    AA7 in 9mm under a heavy bullet was a very good recipe IME. I used a magnum SP primer to get more consistent ignition and it did help to tighten SD over the chrono.

    Marking reloaded ammo

    in General Reloading

    Posted

    I load mainly .40 and .38SC. I mark my .38SC used for local matches once they're in a blue Dillon ammo box with a red Sharpie. Start one from end of the row and go to other end so that each cartridge has a red line. I get .40 for free so I dont mark it; I just leave it for the other guys.

    Same method here, ammo loaded with cases I want to find and identify get loaded in ammo cases head stamp up. Then I use a red sharpie in one direction and black in the other to put a red/black X on every case head. Tumbling always takes the sharpie marking off the case heads.

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