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BlkSC

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    Wichita, KS
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    Brandon

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  1. PM sent I received a reply from Matrix last night, he said he doesn't produce them anymore but he has a couple of aluminum rail measuring tools left. Unless you see a problem with them being aluminum, I'll buy one from him. I'm assuming that if a person was gentle with it, the aluminum wouldn't be an issue. The blocks I'm looking at includes as follows: All in inches, 81 blocks total 0.050 0.100 - 0.101 in 0.0001 increments 0.101 - 0.150 in 0.001 increments .200 - 1 in 0.050 increments 1 - 4" in 1" increments My thought was the gage blocks could be used where these two tools would be used on a 2011?
  2. I keep seeing references to the rail measuring tool that Matrix has but the links never work and I can't find it on their website. I'll shoot them an email, see if one is still available. I may be interested. My first two 2011's are going to be a matching set but I plan on building a .40 2011 in the future. Is it carbon steel? Also, I recently came across a guy that uses gage pins that fit in each side of the rail, then measures between the gage pins, adds the two gage pins to the measurement and, boom, has the distance. Does this seem like an accurate way of doing this instead of using the rail measuring tool? I have plans to purchase a 0.061-.250" gage pin set, gage block set, and depth micrometer. Are the gage pins and blocks a good purchase for building these? Thanks again, I appreciate everyone that has taken time to respond
  3. Can't figure out how to edit this post the way I want or delete it...see below
  4. I ended up ordering most of the parts Rogue Tac sells (my understanding is Rogue Tac was formerly Limited 10) to build two 9mm 2011's along with the Matrix rail jig. The rest of the parts I bought from various places, quite a few from EGW. I'm now acquiring the rest of the measuring tools needed (depth micrometer, outside micrometer, etc.) so I can get started. Do you guys use a slide measuring tool like Deep River Customs sells? I can measure the width at the rear of the slide with calipers but I can't see any other way of verifying the width the full length of the slide. Or do you trust the quality of the slides you use and just use the measurement at the rear? One other question...right now, lol. I've been considering stainless grips, and if not on either of these two, perhaps on my next one, but it seems all of them have a pinned grip safety. Is it possible to have a steel grip and maintain a functional grip safety?
  5. From quite a bit of reading, that's the conclusion I had come to as well on the aluminum frames. And I'll get a hold of L-10, thank you very much for your time!
  6. L-10 is who I've read so many good things about but I'd like to do a stainless frame and they don't make one while Black Mountain does. But speaking of L-10, what's your opinion of the Tennalum frames? I know it has a higher strength to weight ratio to even 6Al-4V titanium but I'm curious about the long term durability when used in a frame. My understanding is that the Type III hard coat anodizing commonly used on AR upper and lower receivers is to prevent the aluminum from wearing...that is where my concern is based on using aluminum for a frame as I wouldn't have it anodized.
  7. I've built many AR-15's and a couple Polymer 80 based Glocks and I've decided I want to attempt to build a 2011 (lol, yes, I know it's not even in the same level as building an AR or Glock). Does anybody have any experience with the Black Mountain 80% frames? Thanks
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