chomorro
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Posts posted by chomorro
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I had a shadow 1 that I put thousand through it and didnt even know the reduced power firing pin spring was broken and missing coils.
Good thing it still worked fine lol
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Yeah California off roster bump
Really, why? California? MSRP is about $1,350.
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Gun cost me way over 2k so 40 bucks saved makes a difference lol. After all this Corona stuff and ffls being slammed though now it's just a matter of not wanting to wait 6 weeks to get it back.l and wait in line for two hours to drop off and pick up.I dont get it. You want to save 40 dollars on a 1000+ gun.
I did it myself and it was easy, but if you have to ask, I would spent the 40 bucks.
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Not yet, I bought the vice and have all tools necessary. I was hoping to do a pre and post comparison first. OEM, vs 10x vs czc bushing modification. I have a extra shadow 2 slide getting milled and fitted for the 1911 style bushing.chomorro, did you end up replacing the bushing yourself?
Just curious....
Rob
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I guess the real comparison will be 10x vs 1911 so maybe I will just attempt the install sooner.
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It's not the dimensions that dont fit the dawson is the same dimensions. The factory is on top on the picture. The mag release notch for the retaining screw is too far inward so it wont catch the factory slot to stay seated.OK, thanks for confirming that was what you got from Dawson.
In your picture, which one was your stock RIA and which was the Dawson? I'm guessing the top one was stock, which from your picture, appears to be wider/thicker than the other one. Do you happen to have any dimensions? I tired Googling what the standard 2011 mag release dimensions where, and I was not able to find anything other than the length the button protrudes past the frame, so I can't compare to know if the RIA one I have is thicker or not.
Here's some of the dimensions I took of mine ... not sure if I'm using the correct terminology or not:
overall length = 1.3085"
main body thickness (half circle) = 0.1860"
main body thickness (full circle) = 0.3080" --> I think this is the dimensions shown in your picture
Note that I'm trying to use STI Gen 1 mags and I'm getting some issues with them locking properly when the mags are loaded (with any number of rounds, not just full). Mags have been tuned per Dawson specs. It seems that others have successfully used the STI Gen 1 mags with this "same" RIA before, but not sure what additional measures were needed.
It seems that RIA makes some subtle changes here and there and not sure if those are reflected in the model #'s or not. One example of this is my rear sights are blacked out, as shown here:... but a review for the "same" gun from 2016 here: https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/gun-review-rock-island-armory-pro-match-ultra-40-10mm-1911s/ shows the rear sights with two white dots. Just using that as an example to essentially say that someone else with the "same" gun might get something to work that someone else might not be able to get work (without some additional mods).
I ended up using a para mag release and it worked great, and fixed my mag seating problems.
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Yes that's the one I bought because of the reviews. It does not fit. Take a picture of your mag release and compare it to mine.
Which part # did you buy that didn't work? This one -> https://dawsonprecision.com/mag-releases-sti-2011-by-dawson-precision/ has two reviews on their site with people saying it worked fine in their RIA ... one review is from September 2018, and one is from February 2020, the latter stating he has a 10mm Pro Match Tac Ultra HC. I'm asking because I have a .40 Pro Match Ultra HC (51738) that I was looking to replace the mag release on and was interested in that Dawson. Thanks.
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I dont live in a free state but I always wanted a shadow 2 orange. I ended up buying an extra shadow 2 slide and having it milled for czc plates and bushing modification. Should be done in a few weeks.
So I have my factory slide and this optic slide. I really wanted a direct milling but optics keep changing and I would rather change a plate then get another slide.
I will have an official opinion once I get my slide back.
Oh yeah most important part. I had a fully cajunized sp01 shadow with 10x barrel bushing. Factory shadow 2 made me look like a pro shooter when I picked it up so I went shadow 2 all the way. So of your two options I would say bull shadow maybe.
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At least it didnt jam!
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I'm thinking I might try this. Just use my file and blueing pen. Hopefully it doesnt look horrible.I found it was easier to reshape my existing safeties than to retrofit one that's retained in a different manner.
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Wasnt took hard to take apart and get back together but do you cut off that extensions on the second picture so it will fit the RIA? Or is there a vendor who makes an ambi safety that does not include that section.The sear pin has a little notch in it that the safety gets captured by. You pull the left side out first, then rotate the right side up and out of the notch of the sear pin and remove it.
I actually like that method more than the ones that are captured by the grips.
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I was thinking about filing the Sharp edges of my safety and just using a blueing pen to cover it up.
I removed the safety and noticed it doesnt have the piece that sticks out on the right side to go under the grip. When you guys replace the factory ambi with another one are you filing that piece off? Or is there a version that drops in?
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Watched some videos and it seems. I need to watch for nose dive and also trim my recoil springs so the slide doesnt short stroke.The tinkerer in me wonders if you could polish the feed ramp and tube the mag lips to get it to run reliably with that 9lb spring.
Is the muzzle nose diving with the 12lb spring? Tuning the spring is important for function, safety, and reliability (and longevity), but is also an important part of tuning the behavior for good return to zero...
Looks like another trip to the range
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Unfortunately 1911 style weapons are new to me. Let me look that up.The tinkerer in me wonders if you could polish the feed ramp and tube the mag lips to get it to run reliably with that 9lb spring.
Is the muzzle nose diving with the 12lb spring? Tuning the spring is important for function, safety, and reliability (and longevity), but is also an important part of tuning the behavior for good return to zero...
The 9lb spring did work pretty well just a few failures to fully chamber
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Just got back from the range. Tried 9lb recoil spring and thought every thing was fixed but had a few failures to feed after a few rounds with both round nose and flat nose rounds.
Then I tried the 12lb spring which is supposedly factory weight but was ALOT harder to install in and compress then the factory one i had.
Did rapid fire with round nose for two box of 50 and no issues. Flat nose had one jam.
So I think the problem is fixed! Was not the magazines or the release it seems. Maybe my recoil spring was worn out.
I did dig into my hands with the sharp safety doing rapid fire. That's my next mod for sure.
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I just recently bought a chamber checker for 9mm and 5.56 because I had some bad 5
56 rounds cause completely stuck rounds.
I chamber checked all my existing 9mm and there definitely is a difference in tolerance. Out of 5 boxes of pmc bronze, only one box fully passed the chamber check gauge. The rest were acceptable and could be used but to fully seat some assistance from the slide is needed.
It was interesting seeing the differences, I may actually change my budget brands even though they still function fine.
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Mine has shot everything I have tried in bulk. I had one issue with factory reloads with not enough powder and the bullet was stuck in the chamber and very dangerous.
But everything chambered fine.
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Just watched the videos. My calipers only read to the second decimal so not sure how I'm going to get the front .005 wider then the rear hahha.Find the Hayes video on YouTube that talks about adjusting the 22tcm mags and see if yours need that. Also Atlas has a mag tuning video with proper feedlip measurements, might need to open up the front of the feedlip a bit to aid the bullet tip up and feed better.
I ended up measuring all my new mags and all of them are .32 inch front and back. Tried cycling again with dummy rounds and they all functioned fine. Video states it should be .35 inch rear and .355 front so I am off according to that.
I'm starting to think it's the flat nose rounds I was using. They are 124 grain flat nosed vs standard 115 grain round nose.
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Hahha yeah I was debating the plate system from cz customs which is closest to the OR or the specific mill from CGW.If getting a slide cut is all you can do, then I’d say go for it, just use someone who’s established and not new to the party.
FYI/FWIW, if you can’t get one cut to use P-10OR/S2OR plates, you can just choose a “team”, IMHO the best “teams” right now are: team Trijicon/Holosun, or team C-More/Sig Romeo3Max/XL... lol.
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Thank you!I kind of got lucky and saw the CO rule change as far as weight (old 45oz max to new/now 59oz max) the day before I was going to send off a new-to-me regular S2 to get cut/milled... then, somehow got lucky again and scored one of the first S2 OR's released in the US. I'm sure the rule change has pissed a lot of guys off who had spent the money to make weight (and I was very nearly one of them)...
Cost-wise, it ended up being nearly a wash getting the factory S2OR vs getting a regular one cut (and I mean cut for the optic only... which is a bunch cheaper than what the extra milling a lot of guys had to do in order to make weight previously cost). But, that's only because I also somehow didn't have to pay top dollar for mine, they're so new right now that most of them (if you can find one) are overpriced by $100-150 or more right now if the dealer knows what they've got. And, I got my regular S2 for $1000, which is a hard price to find at this time now too.
Honestly though, that took a lot of things breaking right for me for things to get close money-wise, and once you factor in re-nitriding/coating the slide, and shipping and such... IMHO, chances are having a regular S2 cut for an optic is still probably more expensive than just buying an S2OR.
Then there's the wait time, some of the shops turn things around faster than others, but most are 3-4 weeks if not longer, and then seems you usually have to end up picking a lesser slide finish (like Cerakote or whatever instead of Nitride/DLC) versus adding to your turnaround time...
For me, the factory S2OR is the better way to go because I'm new to CO and with me not 1000% in love with a particular optic just yet, having my slide not married to a certain optic/cut for now and forever is a huge plus. Also, and I haven't really heard about this with Cz's/Shadow's, but if an aftermarket shop cuts your slide and it cracks/breaks, you're out of luck, no warranty... not that big of a deal if it's a Glock where sub-$200 optics-ready slides are out there all-day no problem, but it is a problem when a Shadow slide is around $500-750 and tough to track down.
As far as a cut/milled slide having the optic sit lower: yeah, maybe some of them by a few millimeters, but that's about it... the optic sits pretty low on the factory S2OR, I was definitely surprised how low the optic sits.
Unfortunately I do not live in a free state so I cannot just purchase a shadow 2 or shadow 2 OR.
So I have to get it milled for plates or get lucky on purchasing a OR slide somewhere.
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I did not know this. One of the reasons I was hesitating on a shadow 2 OR slide is plate availability but many manufacturers make plates for the p10f now.Price of OR gun is about same as a Shadow 2 and getting milled.
both will benefit fro trigger work, so overall price is about the same.
OR gun uses same plate as P10 OR. So perhaps that’s a benefit.
don’t overthink it. Get either and shoot!
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I'm just going to grab as many things to check and head to the range for this. Too bad I just cant make a change and go shoot in my backyard lol. I probably wont get results for a awhile.agree. especially because the replacement catch seems to sit at a different spot.
the throat and ramp don't look too rough, but a little polish might not hurt.
It does look like the barrel is sitting a bit far forward, but I'm not familiar with normal throat gap in 9mms. I know in .45s the goal is ~1/32". I'm sure someone else will chime in on that as well. Might check the general gunsmithing section as well, someone there will know the proper setback for the 9mm 1911s.
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I will try that, I had having the half seated problem before this release though. Bought some different recoil springs to try then out and see if the helps as well.Try swapping in the factory mag release and see if it happens. It's possible that the mags are sitting slightly too low - I ran into that exact problem with a 1911 I built on a RIA frame. Might not fix it, but worth a shot (and free!).
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Just got back from the range only ran 50 rounds through the 2011. Since I was competing with my friends I was using my shadow 2.
Good news is no issues at all with the extended mag release.
Out of 50 rounds I had two jams with 5 round mag changes. One looked like this, and the other was a half seated round. This is a dummy round I tried to replicate.
Before i go sending it off to hayes customs or a smith. Any ideas what would cause this?
I was using flat nosed 124 grain 9mm. I would assume the flat nose made it harder to load since the ramp is so vertical?
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I could be wrong I just read in the beginning of this thread there lots of non ramped 2011s and I bought mine used so not sure what has been done to it.Is that a 9mm? I didn't know they made tac-ultras in non-ramped barrel versions.
but yeah, the ramping doesn't look super smooth. If you had a FTF cycling I'd recommend doing a good polish on the feed ramp. Cheap investment of time if it keeps it eating freely...
Mine is a 9mm 22tcm combo model.
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Competitors - How often do you clean your CZ’s?
in CZ
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You just reminded me I haven't cleaned mine since last range trip. I clean after every trip but I wad under the impression it was too prevent rust etc. That's not the case?
When I first started shooting I didnt clean anything and after a few months my shotgun, mags, even various ar15 parts had surface rust. And that is in a safe with the necessary accessories.
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