OnVacation

I've got a Browning Superposed I picked up a few years ago that doesn't fit me right (I'm 6'6", no gun fits me right out of the box). This particular one was already cut down, so a longer pad won't fix the problem - It's a pre-salt with the round knob stock. from what I can tell, there are three stock options for the superposed - early long tang, early superlight with long tang, and late short tang. since I'm switching stocks, I'd prefer to go to a superlight with the straight-wrist stock (personal reasons). If I choose a short tang superlight stock would I need to get a short tang trigger guard, or would I need to get an early triggerguard for a long tang and inlet the stock? I'm not familiar with disassembly on the short tang, but from pictures I can find it looks like the short tang trigger guards would not work on the earlier receivers. Appreciate the advice!

I used CHPWS for most recent optic cut, and D2 for most recent serrations and sight cuts. I'll probably stick with D2 for the time being, CHPWS was quick, but coating quality was wanting. With D2 be specific with what you want - had him thread a barrel for a cone comp and forgot to ask to have the front of the slide milled to match (the 1° cut to match barrel at lockup). Not a big deal, but learned to be more specific in the future.

I'll vouch for that. He's quick, price was fair and work was quality. There's no Ala Carte menu for most work. Everyone wants something a little different, the price reflects how unique and complex you want to go.

Found this picture of a setup for welding in my search Looks like they used a bolt with some copper lugs. I'd be more inclined to use an old barrel link, but hoping someone experienced can chime in on whether it's worth the work over using a close fit bolt.

Was afraid of that. Wonder if I can talk the wife into letting me buy a tig...

I thought about this, but it's an early 70s vintage commander and the pin to frame fit is still super tight. I don't want to have to ream the frame if I don't need to

Seems as though welding up barrel feet (and hoods) has become less common as aftermarket barrel quality has increased over the last two decades or so and prices have come down. Still, seems like welding up feet is a quick easy way to improve lockup for someone with the requisite talent with a torch, and saves money for those of us tinkering in our spare time. I know the laser welding is the new hotness but requires sending my barrel off, and is just outsourcing the work I'd rather learn to do myself. I've got a few older 1911s I'd like to tighten up without investing in new barrels. I've replaced the bushings but still have a fair amount of play at the hood (vertical) that I think could be alleviated by recutting the feet. I'm decent with a mig torch and thinking of getting an old cheap barrel to practice on (i dont have a tig torch... yet...). Any good resources or tips to ease the learning curve for this job? I've heard of people soldering on shim stock as well, is this a better route? If so what kind of jig setup are people using to get a good joint? I've tried researching here and several places but can't find much more information than just to try it.

Try a light solution of vinegar in an ultrasonic cleaner. I use it for old bolts all the time. It'll strip parkerizing and some bluing as well, so watch how long you leave it in. Run it nice and hot, immediately spray with a water displacement formula, then properly coat with your preferred oil.

caveat emptor on black mountain. lead times are often longer than reported on their site and several people had problems with paying and not getting the product; communication is non-existent. with 80% market being crushed with the new ATF rule not even sure they're shipping frames at all anymore.

this^^ Did something similar before - I tried to design so it was advantageous for the shooter to carry the prop through the whole COF rather than run the prop to the finish line and shoot the stage in reverse (having the final position be far enough forward and an awkward flow if running backwards helped. stage layout is critical to making it so most shooters want to just suck it up and carry the prop, but there will be one or two who decide to try their luck and sprint with the object to the end then engage all targets freestyle. We used kettlebells and ammo cans in the past for this, and normally required they be upright, on a table as their final position (this kept people from chucking the object to the finish line and picking it up later.) We used heavier weights, but we were shooting in Afghanistan and all our shooters had plenty of hand strength - I'd use something in the 10lb range for a stateside shoot I think. Nothing to stop the shooter from setting the prop down between firing positions or for reloads. I made it so there were 8 poppers visible from starting point; 3 silhouettes, a steel activator and swinger visible from finish point, and I believe 9 rounds required between the two points which required movement to or through various positions. I wanted to make it so shooters could avoid reloading while holding the prop, but if they missed they had to deal with putting the prop down and picking it up again. I found target distance along the COF was critical - too hard of shots and shooters would avoid shooting strong hand, too easy and it wasn't a dilemma on how to engage. Tuxedo'd targets were helpful for that. I tried to find that stage on my sketchup account but all my files from sketchup seem to be missing for some reason.

I found 147s to be soft and had good return target for my with my P226. Havent tried them in the new double stack yet, but fully expecting them to work similarly well. I found the cost difference to be negligible in loading and just liked the feel better than 124gr. That said, I never tried them on the clock to see if there was an actual difference in drills, and I'm not consistent enough I'd be confident saying any difference was due to the bullet as opposed to me warming up or just having a rough rep.

^^^^ Agreed. when I was an MD I tried to make it a point to add these stages on a regular basis. part of a good stage design is coming up with a selection of stages that is fun yet challenging for the majority of competitors on a given day. some long shots, some fast stages, some stages with technical challenges, some carnival stuff (swingers, etc.). I normally tried to pair a new shooter with someone more experienced, made sure they never shot first, and always harped on safety for any stage with a target close to the 90, or where shooters had to retreat upstage. it wasn't coaching, it was safety first. We never had a problem, and had very few DQs in the matches I ran.

I've got VM with the RCI x-rail. It always ran well for me (configured for open with a stupid large muzzle break and a ginormous trijicon reflex optic...). comfortable and easy to shoot well, even with low brass gamer loads. haven't tried to get service parts for it recently... not super widespread adoption on the VM, so a bit concerned that parts may eventually become harder to get, but figure that'll be several years down the line (hopefully...)

Sending a slide to dan for some cuts, along with a barrel to get threaded for a cone comp. His work seems great. Gary's speed and quality combined with his pricepoint were hard to beat, hoping Dan can be my go-to until I can stabilize and get a mill and lathe of my own.

I really dig my DAA pouches on my ELS belt. They sit out a bit far but hasn't ever been a problem. ELS means I can always put a different pouch on if I want lower profile. Running Taccom caddy, but will probably upgrade to a spring loaded carrier at some point when I get back in the game. Heard good reviews on the King Competition caddy.

I liked to spray things with water before the cut when using rotary tools, helps keep down airborne particulate (or so I've heard). I started using hack saw after I had a kid and got worried about his lungs; always found CF to clean up well if using a sharp file when done

I pulled my elftmann out after having issues with light primer strikes. they replaced a broken spring, but I never went back. Currently running a WMD NP3 trigger in my tac-ops rifle (cleaned up and polished engagement surfaces on hammer and trigger, lightweight trigger spring, full power hammer spring, and pre-travel eliminator grip screw). it's cheap, goes bang, has good feel and I like the reset on it. I put the same trigger in my dad's AR10 and he loved it. I've got an ALG trigger in another where I polished the engagement surfaces, swapped springs, and used a pre-travel eliminator screw. did the same thing with a stainless trigger from anderson. An experienced shooter wouldn't mistake them for a high-end trigger, but they've never slowed me down, and I've never noticed the trigger pull when shooting at distance. they're cheap but they work well for me.

quick update for those searching - I opened a dispute and BMF shipped the day the dispute was set to close. frames received in good condition. I'd be hesitant to do business with them again in the future due to lack of communication and long shipping times, but the quality still seems high, so thats good. Really dig their frames, so hopefully they come back on the the net again in the future.

Now that Gary Natale has retired I'm trying to find a new smith for slide work. simple stuff like flat topping, milling for rackers, milling for sights, cutting serrations, and some lightening work, as well as barrel threading for compensators. I can do most everything else I think. Obviously Gary was notorious for his quick turnaround and great work and fair prices, and would like to find someone suitable. I've been doing most my own work, but I'm not currently in a career position where I can acquire a mill or lathe to do my own work (future aspirations, once the PCS moves come to a halt). I'm good with mailing, and I expect that to be mandatory being currently located in Hawaii. I'm good with up-and-coming shops and trying out home machinists who are looking for some side jobs. Hoping to establish a relationship with someone as I work to move forward on some projects I've had on the back burner for a while, and looking for some recommendations for someone who doesn't necessarily pop up on google...

Unsure on that part, but since you didn't get a reply... I went with a QD cup for stages where a shotgun sling made sense (few and far between). simple installation to drill the forend for the required hole - I made sure and get one that was threaded for security, didn't want the cup pulling free from the epoxy under harsh use. quicker for me to remove the sling for stages where it isn't removed to pull the QD connectors than to remove or add a conventional sling back on. I did the same with a QD cup on the stock to provide options... Make sure you are careful fitting before drill the hole so you have sufficient clearance behind the forend so it doesn't interfere with proper fit.

RCI used to make a monotube for the Stoeger; made it super easy to add an extension and get length. I think I'm running a +4 on my 3500 to get 10 in the tube (currently stored in a different state while I'm stationed here, or I'd get specs and pictures). not currently listed on their website, but they may still make it if you call

I will love this. the HOA and landlord won't, but I won't care...

Hate to necro this, mods feel free to move if this is in the wrong place, but trying to find a way to contact BMF. I ordered a frame a while back, was happy, and ordered two more, but BMF seems to have gone radio silent and I cant get in touch with them. Anyone have a good contact number or know why hes fallen off the planet? Out several hundred dollars and would like to either get my frames delivered or get my money back. Anyone heard anything from him recently? I placed my order in March and havent heard from him since he confirmed my order, which definitely should have shipped by now.

This was a huge help and resulted in the biggest decrease in bugs. Ended up scalping the front yard grass and doing heavy treatment of the diatomaceous earth, then reseeding and fertilizing. I think they were hiding in the lawn in the thick grass. Shorter lawn seems to be helping. We kept them out of the house, but the lawn was the source I think. Some cockroaches, but TONS of beetles in the grass I didnt know were there until I scalped the lawn. Shall see how long the treatment lasts...

I didnt want to live in Hawaii, per se. But, the army said go, so I'm here. In sunny paradise. Hot, sunny paradise. I can manage most the issues. High ammo prices? Dry fire, shoot airsoft. Gas prices high? Get a Sam's club membership. But the beetles in my yard are creepy. It's too hot to work in my garage with the door closed, but as soon as I open the garage door the bugs are crawling in. Over the car parts. Across the pelican cases. And through my crocs. Errrggghhhaaawww I can manage everything else. But the cockroaches that insist on crawling over the bug killer spray, through my crocks, and up my legs during dry fire? Its enough to result in a flesh wound from an airsoft pellet. And those dang pellets hurt!!!