Compare how much bullet is in the case compared to your usual load. Subtract a tenth for every .020 deeper your Nosler bullet is. Just a general rule that should keep you safe.
That seems long. I’d shorten it to about 1.135-1.130 and re-chrono and test for function. You’ll pick up a little fps (possibly) with the .010” less. Once it functions then you can up your charge if needed. The XDM’s will generally tolerate a wide velocity range as far as extraction goes as long as you’re grip is good. Also is your crimp good and recoil spring good too?
@BJBTake your bug spray for those B-52 mosquitoes. That or a shotgun.
Most places that I’ve ordered stuff from usually have an extra charge for Alaska deliveries, you might just look on Powder Valley’s website to see if they have any info. Maybe check with RMR or your favorite bullet manufacturer also to see what they provide.
I must be the oddball that reads the rule book, asks questions and tries to be prepared before setting foot at a range. I would rather show up without a gun to just watch/help and learn the ropes a bit before hand.
Hey here comes old 3 fingers! My #12 Speer shows max at 15.1 for 158 but 15.9 for a 180gn Silhouette load. You’ll probably come back with a 1/2” group @ 50 yards.
On that bottom pin is that carbon build up back where the taper widens or is that peened from hitting the pin channel? Looks shaped differently (longer) than the others. That could have made it stick and cause the AD. Primer wipe can also break or wear the tip down too.
Sometimes once the primer is struck and not fired it will break or crumble the mixture pellet and then it’s done. No amount of smacking will set it off. I had several in a batch of Rem primers I once had. The revolver I used them in didn’t hit dead center and rendered quite a few inert. When I pulled the bullet and dumped the powder you could see the yellowish powder mixed in and in the bottom of the case.
I also think that “match grade” is many times a sales pitch.
That’s where I thought the rules were a bit muddy. To me the whole idea is about safety but if you have a couple of yahoo’s back in the corner showing off their new guns that kinda defeats the rules. I guess if that was the case they should be asked to leave.
If you want the impressive fireball load them in the middle. As you get to max or above H110/296 clean up and the big fire disappears. It’s a great magnum powder but not for sissy loads.
Clarification on the creeping rule please. When they say movement at the start signal are they referring to when the RO says “standby” or the actual “beep”?
Especially with RF. I had a bad mag that was a pita to figure out. Would do the ugly 22 jam where it darn near bent the bullet in half while skinning the lead off, and not all the time. Mag lips were just off enough to let an occasional one pop out before it was ready.
I know from years past when we would make blanks or use those Speer plastic bullets we would drill the flash holes out to keep the primer from backing out and locking up a revolver. The reasoning there was that there wasn’t any pushback from a heavy projectile to re-seat the primer. I do know that I had some Norma 270 brass that had small flash holes (smaller than WW) and once I uniformed them to standard size I gained around 40 fps and my ES dropped. When I get a chance I’ll test some 9 and 45’s with the larger holes just to see if there’s any difference.