Farmer

@ColoradoNick Looks like 8% is as good as it gets so far this year. Code: LONGTRAINOFABUSE

You thinkin you found part of the problem???

I understand what you’re saying about the feeder and not the rollsizer itself. On my Lee APP I noticed the black crud buildup on the tubes and collator funnel. Thought it was just discoloration at first but with closer examination there’s all kinds of crap in it. (Bits of brass ect) It’s also kinda sticky and almost abrasive to the point of hanging onto the brass. I did the same as you and cleaned everything and even on the shake-N-feed it made a difference. Even with washed brass it shows up, just not as bad as with semi clean.

It seems to have a coating on it either from the last process or as a tarnish preventer. And like I said above there’s that sharp edge on the mouth. The sizer and expander just rolls it over but it’s like sizing and loading brass that’s .001-.002” thicker in that area.

I’ve done that before with no problems. I just taper crimped with a Redding PCD (or carefully roll crimped) until it was against the bullet.

In a previous post. The other thing I like about it is that it doesn’t spike like Clays does. I just notice that accuracy falls off when it’s too hot.

Look very closely (with magnification) at the recoil shield on the left hand side for signs of dings or dents. Have seen cranes get bent when cases aren’t fully in the cylinder and someone tries to slam the cyl shut. I also re-watched your video of the rub marks on the crane and noticed one at the front and one at the back opposite side.

Sounds like you either have a loading or comp problem.

I had a crimp die that was tight and rough inside. I took a bore mop of a larger caliber, slathered on some Mothers mag wheel polish, chucked it in the drill press and polished away. Only took a few minutes and it smoothed it right up. Just for the heck of it take a handful of brass and chamfer the outside mouths of them and see how they go through. So many have a burr on the edges even after several loadings.

Somebody chamber that with a hand crank bit brace?

Ahh yes, the familiar “Don’t you have something else to do?”

Beings you have an indicator check the center pin and extractor for runout.

I was going to suggest what gargoil66 has suggested. Reason being is if the crane was bent the clearances wouldn’t change side to side or up and down as the cylinder is rotated. They generally stay wider at one side than the other and at opposite sides front to back. Yours almost sounds like the cylinder bore was drilled crooked or not square. Unless you have dial indicators it would be hard to tell and there could be other issues like gargoil66 stated. I also know it’s a pain sending things off for repairs but most of the time you’ll be money and time ahead.

Now that could also be that the barrel isn’t cut square. But check the clearance at the back by the shield to see if it follows the same trend. It should be opposite of the front. Also rotate the cyl 180 and check the front clearance to see if it changes.

I would check the clearance between the cylinder and the recoil shield to see if it varies as the cylinder turns. Or the clearance between the cylinder and barrel to see if it’s even. If it’s not square it could bind and also throw timing off. Look for other wear patterns too.

Crane bent?

E3 is really clean and accurate too, it’s just kinda flaky and doesn’t go through some powder measure’s very well at low chg weights. I usually run 3.2 for 125’s, 2.8 for 147’s for 130 Pf.

I did not know this gentleman but I would like to send thoughts and prayers to his family.

I wonder if when they loosen a little they enlarge the threaded hole slightly and that’s why they won’t stay tight. My neighbor had a piece of equipment that had 4 bolts that would not stay tight even with loctight. He was tempted to weld them in but it needed to be taken apart occasionally. The holes were slightly loose from the bolts coming loose and moving around. I installed new bolts, lock washers, torqued them, then safety wired the bolts. Still tight four years later.

That’s the problem, you either get good feeding with less sizing or the opposite. I noticed RCBS has a bit different angle on theirs VS Lee (more rounded), not sure about Hornaday as I only have rifle dies of those. Here’s an early RCBS carbide that’s a real “honey” to use, but it sizes to the shell plate.

I ran into the same situation with 231 and 230 Gold Dots in the 45. Most show a max of 5.7-5.5 of 231. I had an old manual that showed psi in a ladder type loading and 6.3 was under the caution limit. I first thought they maybe changed the burn rate but I worked up to that and it was the most accurate, cleanest and left the primers with nice rounded edges. It also shoots the same in several 45’s and runs right at 890 fps.

Good deal. I’ve also noticed that with euro powders and they seem to reach peak psi more gently.

Do you mean a large tapered opening so the mouth of the case starts easily?

It’s 1/8 pipe thread. Any decent hardware store should have it or any auto parts store should have both.

I think sometimes they don’t fall free of the pocket and get drug around. I had a bunch hang up in my Lee APP and didn’t notice right away that one had pushed the de-capping pin up just a hair. Re-set and good to go.