Boomstick303

When I was first introduced to the Garmin it was on Area 419's channel. In their launch video it mentioned they used it at a range with a couple of Garmins, and the Garmin does have the ability to hop channels. At minute 3:55 in the video it goes into that. I think it would be fine. Not sure why the manual would not mention that. Garmin is pretty detailed in manuals for other products.

I need to shoot ISPC targets more in that we almost never do in our section. I find I aim too high on the targets collecting unwanted Charlies.

I you have not already invest in some ISPC targets.

My experience has been am FMJ that has exposed lead on the back of the bullet will lead the comp. Its not anywhere near as fast as coated bullets but it still leads up. JHP is the way to go if you want to prevent leading.

There is something for having consistent ammo PF.

Nice, that race is no joke!

What kind of wind are we talking about? I have used my reloaded 55 gr bullets to flash that exact flasher at 400 yds. We have found there are more problems with that flasher than 55 gr ammo hitting targets out to 500 yds. I guess I can see that if the steel was so heavy that it does not move at that distance, but we use normal AR steel and they move enough to set off the flasher. I will shoot 55 gr all day long out to 500 yds without issue in light wind conditions. I can see the utility in the use of heavier bullets when conditions are windy. Then I think it becomes more of a question of how good your wind game is for long distance shooting that the weight of the bullet. Fudds are funny.

The OP did not specify exactly so that would help answer the question. This is completely up to the rule set used, and if the Match Director wrote rules that differ then the rule set into the Written stage brief. I have seen it done both ways at a variety of matches. We had a Fixed Time stage where there were not penalties from not engaging targets but penalties for misses. It was also scored as Hit Factor scoring, so I gamed the stage to figure out what was an acceptable HF for that stage and only shot that number of targets that were required to reach that HF. I think I finished somewhere between 3rd to 5th on that stage. Needless to say the next week on a similar stage there were penalties involved for misses and gunshot targets. You need to completely understand the rule set and how the written stage brief is written to be able to game it. This also means having some crud understanding of what a possible HF for that stage would be if there is a HF, or an acceptable number of targets is to be competitive if HF scoring is not involved.

What did you end up with?

Yes and no. I am not sure if the overall process saves time but it removes tons of headaches, in that you will be processing all brass before loading. Essentially two passes. Automation works so quick any hiccup is a way bigger deal than using a manual press. If your press is set up automated properly everything flies by quickly. Processing, and reloading is a much easier process. Like most things attention to detail is paramount. After loading premed brass manually and automated, I will always used completely prepped brass. It make for a much better loading experience, manually or automated. So Automation makes both processes quick and easy as long as you are detail oriented, but you will be making two passes with the ammo before it's loaded.

I have pretty much given up on not processing 9 mm brass before reloading. It was tolerable when the press was manual, but not that the press is Automated, you pretty much have to use processed brass, or it makes the automation a headache. After going to Automation, if I have to go back or get a second manual press I would still use process brass moving forward. I would have never known how much better of a loading session is when the brass is completely processed when Automated or manual. It does seem like more and more 9 mm brass is coming crimped as well.

I would hit up Centenial Gun Club (CGC) to see if they can order any JP parts. JP Distributors in Colorado can still order parts and guns from JP is my understanding. If CGC Cannot help you then look into an online outfit called Arnzen arms. They carry a lot of JP stock and they have the bolt in stock currently. You may want to inquire about the barrel and comp with Arnzen arms as well. They might be able to help. I have ordered from them but not had any direct discussions with them but have heard from others they are pretty easy to work with. https://arnzenarms.com/product/jp-rifles/bolt-carrier-for-9mm-carbine-short-stroke-compatible-polished-stainless-steel You don't have to use the SCS system with their bolt, and many use that Kynshot Heavy Damped Hydraulic buffer (or similar) setup with the orange spring spring. I tested that system and did not find that it made that much difference for me against a couple of other buffer systems. Others swear by it. I love the JP MLok haggard for my JP5, but I do not think it is worth the cost if you are looking to go the budget route. I would go with the Tac Com if you want a super light rig. I think people make way to much about creating super light PCC rigs, but this is all personal preference at the end of the day. The JP MLok hand guard is pretty light. Something to keep in mind is that if you want to add anything like a laser or other items to the hand guard that you would not be able to do that with the Tac Com Hand guard if it is the one I picture. If you have questions about the Tac Com Hand Guard I think Josh Horner runs one on the PCC he built. He runs the Aurora Matches, so maybe pick his brain. I am not familiar with the Area EPC-9, but from what I have read on it I think the components you have identified will work just fine. You sound like you have a good build in mind, let me know if you have any questions and I will help you out as much as I can.

While I agree if you are going to spend money on a barrel replacement that it should be fitted in the P320 to see true benefits of a barrel swap, Bar-sto and KKM chamber are different than the stock Sig barrels which have unsupported chambers. In my eyes that is an added benefit, but not enough to justify the cost. What I did find is that the Bar-sto barrel I installed on my P320 was not as finicky when it came to ammo. Meaning, I did not get a huge shift in Point Of Impact when switching from ammo to ammo. That barrel has made my P320 more accurate and more consistent which is worth the cost. This was using Gun Smith fitted barrels though. For the OP, I would ask what ammo was used? Not all ammo performs the same out of a given barrel. Stock P320 barrels hate slow ammo. People generalize this by saying that P320 barrels hate 147 gr bullets which is not necessarily true. I got 147 gr bullets to group fine out of the stock barrel by speeding the bullet up. But that kind of defeats the purpose of using a heavier bullet for USPSA use when we are trying to dial in a specific Power Factor. In those barrels faster is better in regards to grouping, so it makes sense to use a lighter bullet.

That makes sense. I bought a Mark 7 second hand, and it came with the BulletSense Sensor, but claimed it did not work. I will need to attach it to seem if it will work. Probably the second most useful sensor.

Which sensor did you order? If it was not the SwageSense sensor, I feel that is the most important one for the Mark 7.

Something that is not being discussed here is feed quality. The same OAL is going to possibly feed different from pistol to pistol depending on where the bullet impacts the feed ramp in relation to a given OAL. Not only should you be insuring the bullet's OAL fits the chamber of the barrel one must look at how the OAL interacts with the feed ramp. @CHA-LEE did an rather lengthy write up on here that explains it well.

I do not notice any smoke with Sport Pistol, when shooting anything other than coated bullets. I do notice some smoke when shooting coated, and seems to be worse when atmoshpere humidity is higher for some reason.

Do you experience any sort of static electricity build up with this surface?

After talking to a couple of people using the Commercial size Roll Sizer, they have the same issue I do in that the 223 brass will tip over before being walked into the disc. The brass maintains this tipped over attitude until they are discharged out of the Roll Sizer. I am not sure if this will cause a lot of issues regarding to chambering, but I stand there and tip the brass upright before it is sucked into the disc to prevent any further issues. I would like to be able to not have to babysit the Roll Sizer when rolling 223 brass. I am curious if anyone has come up with a fix. I have tried creating a leaf spring that has not been perfected, but I thought I would ask before spending any more time on this approach if someone has already identified a solution.

Based on a couple of reviews on the YouTubes I trust seems more consistent that the Lab Radar. For the most part I do like the Lab Radar, but as mentioned above it is HUGE and it is not the most user friendly. I intend to downsize to the new Garmin once they are available on a regular basis.

There is a lot on the forum about the lack of accuracy for the stock P320 barrels using 147 gr bullets at Power Factors (PF) of around 130. The bullet is traveling too slow. I have done extensive testing to figure this out and it seems to come down to velocity. To get any bullet to be accurate I found a minimum of 1050 FPS was required regardless of the bullet weight. The barrel seems to hate slower velocities which 147 gr bullets get loaded to for 125 -130 PF. I found the faster the bullet out that barrel the more accurate it tends to be proven through groupings and testing at different velocities. I also noted a rather large change in Point of Impact shift when shifting between ammo that have vastly different velocities. Keep in mind this is with the stock barrels. I did not see this with the Barstow after market barrels I have switched to. I load just about any ammo to at least 1100 FPS with 124gr bullets to ensure accuracy and that I make PF when traveling to Level 2 and up matches that chrono ammo.

I noted that too and I was actually surprised at seeing them at Nationals to be honest. I can see some utility if you had to go prone on a stage, or had to shoot the PCC at an angle through a port where the longer mags could bang into the side of the port on angled shots. Other than some specific situations I cannot see the benefit. With that said I may make the investment to at least have that option for those specific situations. I will most likely never use one for 99% of the stages out there.

A group of us did some testing using this drum mag. Some things to take into consideration when using them. The feed of the mag through the mag well is single stack. This created a situation where the majority of the weight in the mag is very low and wide. We watched the gun and mag in video during a stage run and you can see the PCC tilting with the mag creating a pendulum affect. Much more noticeable movement on the whole than when using stick Glock mags. This means there is possible added dot movement. It affected getting on target faster for acceptable shots due to the unusual movement for the shooter and thus increased stage times when ran back to back with normal stick mags. One can probably train to remove this variable, but I think it is something to keep in mind for those who want to use them in competition settings and maybe did not know about how the mag is configured and the possibility of added dot movement when using them. Yes, yes, yes I understand pros are using them, and I am sure they either have the fundamentals that this never bothered them or they worked out the kinks through practice, but not everyone has the funds, or time to put the bullets down range when making changes like this so the change is seamless for us mere mortals. No one is running those drum mags in our section.

From discussion on the board it seems like this is completely personal preference. I would shoot the 4.6" before switching. I have never had a 5 " 2011 and the Atlas Athena comes as a 4.6" gun, and I cannot see any gained benefit other than weight going with a 5" 2011. I like the weight of the Athena and think it is well balanced while not being heavy. 9mm so reoil is not really a thing with that gun with proper grip. I will say I love the Sig AXG Full Size (4.7" barrel size) much more vs any 5" P320 I have shot, which I have just about shot all of the P320 5" variants.