gnappi

I know this is an older thread, but my osteopath got me in traction and it saved me from surgery. You can't stop, cheat on the daily time, mess with the recommended weight in the bag, follow the Dr. directions, and above all learn to completely relax. The relaxation part was the biggest and most difficult thing to do. It took a few weeks but once I found out I was not REALLY relaxing my upper body, I made progress getting the herniated disk back to normal and not needing the traction, or surgery. This was nearly 30 years ago and I haven't had a relapse. For anyone going through this, give traction a try.

I had it years back, took a LONG time to go away. Fortunately I'm a lefty (right eye dominant), but always shot right handed and took this time to move 100% of my shooting to the left arm. I got a few lefty holsters, an extra long slide stop (no way to sling shot it, my right hand couldn't do it) and I did a good job getting my "weak hand" up to snuff to nearly equal my right hand side which is actually my weak side. Screwy huh?

Series 80 bits can be removed, I personally don't unless I put an 80 slide on a 70 frame. The extractor issues seem to have been worked out. Long term it may be an issue if you, like me don't trade guns like you change socks. I had a Peters Stahl Omega which broke extractors... I got a couple of the last few spares in the U.S. before they became unobtanium and I traded it away to a machinist who was able to make all the spares he needed. So if Sig completely bails out of the 1911 market, will EGW make them forever? Dunno. I won't buy a S&W either... remember I don't trade guns like I change socks

Being literally raised in a machine shop, dimples are the QC dept way of assuring it passes the Brinell test for hardness. Two dimples usually means the manufacturer AND the client who ordered the part (or subbed it out) tested it. Now if there were three (I really doubt it on a commercial part) dimples, I'd suspect the third was military, four? Not a way I can see logical. A "system" of two levels (or more) of "quality" makes no sense. They either pass or not.

Wowser! Still, I wouldn't call the 9x25 unremarkable. It's a formidable cartridge for just about any purpose I can dream up. Someday I'd like to shoot a pin match with it. But pin matches disappeared too, I guess because they couldn't find pins small enough for the 9 to take off the table cleanly.

I've had Tanfo pistols since I got the first 10mm compact to hit the LGS in Florida waayyy back.

AFAIK there is no dot "system", what I "think" you may be referring to may be hardness testing punches? There was a Star and or a dot system on shotgun barrels to indicate the choke / constriction, but I know of none on any other firearms.

Well, I called Patriot and they said they do NOT have barrels in .38 super and they do not do re-chamber work. J&L OTOH will re-chamber my barrel and we're working out the details. Thanks all PS, I no longer have use for a 9mm barrel and buying a new slide would be impractical.

I powder coat my cast bullets but haven't chronographed them vs. jacketed, I'll say this, the bores stay clean and there's no smoke on the range I used to get from wax lubes. I completely stopped using jacketed bullets . In my comped guns there's no issues at all using it. One thing for sure, they REALLY need a decent mouth bell to keep from shearing the side of the bullet if it's tumble coated and sized. If not my 450 will get little moon shaped slivers in and around the shell plate gunking it up. Tumble coating (shake and bake) and sizing may leave a little extruded rim on the base of the bullet which a poorly prepped case mouth will cut off and drop onto your press.

Were the comps steel or aluminum?

Another idea.. I have a LOT of super brass, and a mini lathe is inexpensive enough (about the price of 2k SC brass if it were available) I could easily turn the rims down the .020" or so easily. Food for thought

I would except I'm heavily invested in other super pistols, as well super brass and with brass scarce I'm better off staying the course with super.

I'm loading a long, L-O-N-G time, I have a couple of little bits I genned up to make it a tad easier. The coffee container is useful as a small batch "tumbler" of sorts when I don't want to take the big Dillon rotary case separator down. All I needed was a stainless dog bowl from the thrift store, a 1/4" drill bit, and a dremel sanding drum to deburr it. The Star lubrisizer plate I drew up and had a local machinist make it for me. One for 9mm/super, one for .40/10mm, one for .45 calibers. With powder coating I no longer needed left side access screw to purge wax lube and the three sizers take less space. The Acro bins are mounted to a cheap "L" bracket bought at the local Lowes or Home Depot for about $4.00 instead of nearly $50 for the Acro part. Easy access shell holder storage from smallest to largest. I used to make my speed loader holders from an oak plank before I discovered 5 star holders. Not cheap but they work I'd like to see your ideas.

Not a very economical option.

I have a Tanfo Gold custom slide in 9mm I'll no longer use as a 9mm. I do use .38 super though, has anyone rechambered a Tanfo? Who is a go to smith to do it?

It's a shame too... even Sig bailed out on the cartridge. It may be a bit of a PITA to get it sorted out on what bullets it likes and paying a bit more attention to load than a 9, 40 or .45 but once it's all sussed out the results are well worth it.

Agreed, the KKM .357 Sig barrel I bought (5.5" threaded) is tack accurate in my .40 caliber 2.0. I have not done anything to the trigger so I suspect KKM is a better frame / slide fit?

I don't use range brass at matches, but once fired I pick up at the indoor range I train at is ok. Those shooters are not reloaders so that works out. I don't have or want brass prep hardware to be using bulged brass.

Whitefish, I don't find reloading it a chore at all I usually prep a bunch of brass and load when needed. Case forming Lee carbide under size FL 10mm size die RCBS .357 Sig neck size to push the shoulder back (The Dillon size die is hard on my right arm) Reloading after fire forming Lee under size FL 10mm size die Dillon neck size Dillon powder measure to expand the neck Dillon die seat Dillon die crimp I tried seat/crimp dies but they don't work well with powder coated bullets.

Thanks all for the heads up on the frame. This one was built reinforced with a welded plate on the side before chrome plating it. Overall a nice job but your points are well taken. I have been shooting coated bullets exclusively for a few years in a few 10mm's as well as compensated guns... a S&W M&P in .357 Sig, a Tanfo in Super, and a Springfield Factory comp in .40 without issues. The 8 mags in this one are Para, so maybe I'd be GTG.

I looked at this a while ago and on a sample of one, welding the rounded area of the frame is not the only issue. A Wilson / Nowlin ramp will sit too far forward in the frame. You may need to have the frame milled to move the square face of the W/N ramp rearward. Then it actually may not be necessary to fill the rounded area at all? I wonder if this would make a "universal" ramp frame?

First off, it's not about whether the 9x25 is obsolete, impractical, unused, or other argument against the caliber. One way or another I'll have an open 9x25 it's just the tack I take getting there. I have an RIA hi cap frame frame and R1 long slide build as well as a 4.25" slide on a single stack DW frame. I started loading the 9x25 about a year ago in large part because I have well over 20k large pistol primers (with a lot more available) to "dispose" of and very few SPP's, an unlimited supply 140 and 150 grain 9mm home cast / powder coated bullets, and two 5 gallon buckets of 10mm brass with half of that already formed / fire formed to 9x25. I cast 9mm bullets for my .38 super and .357 Sigs and do not load 9mm's. I find the 9x25 is a hoot to shoot and I was thinking about building an open gun in 9x25. Recently I stumbled on an open Para / Caspian build with a C-more, 8 mags, dies and lots of loaded ammo and brass. While I don't need the ammo, brass or dies the seller won't separate the package So, I'm thinking a ground up or custom build would be a lot more expensive than the <$2k the seller is asking for his package. Thoughts?

I have a 5" M&P in .40 and I got a 5.45" carver threaded KKM .357 Sig barrel for it. I installed a steel "tanker" style comp, and debris coming from the sides makes it unusable indoors but the barrel is accurate, and I did not have to tweak my loads to get it to function. Recoil is minimal but whether the reduced recoil is by virtue of the ports or just the added weight, I can't say but whichever it is, muzzle rise is not much compared to shooting it without the comp.

Agreed about the third round being coincidence. I'd just go back to the OEM FP and spring unless you were trying to solve this problem with the Henning parts. When you say reamed, explain? Does it plunk OK?

I now carry AIWB a Colt lw Commander in 38 Super. Wude body guns are uncomfortable there.