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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About gnappi

  • Birthday October 24

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Coral Springs, Florida
  • Interests
    Been shooting all my life, and since the 70's trap, skeet, Int skeet, 5 stand, pins, IPSC / USPSA. Ex-NRA and State of Florida Law Enforcement Instructor, and I still do CCW classes.

    I have cast smooth bore Minnie type ammo and loaded many odd calibers (some 35 or so) as well as "wildcats" and even a custom one of a kind cartridge. Fishing, boating (all fresh water) 12 months of the year in sunny Florida. I'm a tropical fruit tree collector / grower, and guitar player...I have no idea how I ever found the time to work before I retired.
  • Real Name
    Gary Napolitano

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Sees Sights Lift

Sees Sights Lift (7/11)

  1. For my 5" 2.0 FS I bought a 4.25" 2.0 .40 slide and fit as well as function are prefect. The slide sticks out ~1/4" from the dust cover it's now my carry piece. Now if I could find a 4.25" .357 Sig bbl I'd be all set
  2. IMO BUSA should offer them free to owners of the X'perf in the US. The X'pref wasn't the best thought out design.
  3. If you mean drill the threads on the barrel OD to form a pocket, I like that idea! Afterward I'd simply have to run my 1/2-28 die over the barrel threads to clean them up and locktite the brass setscrews in place. Thanks for the idea!
  4. Actually, UR both right, it's a modified "tanker" style and it's profile would interfere with the front sight as it is in the pic. I took the pic with the crush washer on after I tested it before drilling and tapping.
  5. An ad from an individual on South Florida gun trader.
  6. I have a threaded .357 Sig barrel for my 5" M&P and got a steel comp got it. It's effect is remarkable. Follow up shots are faster now. Due to the comp weight, porting or both? Dunno, don't care it works pretty good. The comp is slab sided so I had to drill and tap the sides for setscrews to index it correctly. I've ordered some brass Allen setscrews (First time ever Ace hardware did not have what I needed) and I'm wondering if anyone has tried using a piece of lead shotgun shot in the hole to keep from buggering up the threads on the barrel with the setscrew? Or will the brass setscrews be sufficient? Other ideas? Aluminum ? Here's the comp before tapping the holes. PS, I thought about heat and the lead shot but I don't think the bbl will get that hot?
  7. I got 9k CCI LPP @ $40 per K this week, talk about shocked when I saw the price in the ad? I couldn't get on my bike fast enough to ride the nearly 100 miles round trip. That caused a serious imbalance in my primer stock with 2x as many LPP's so I'm switching over to .45 and 10mm until the imbalance is balanced.
  8. I use pc'd bullets (cast and coated here) in all of my X5's. Smash a bullet with a mallet and if the pc does not flake off or crack it's as gtg as any plated bullet at similar velocity or even more.
  9. Bummer, then I'm happy I found the two that I did.
  10. Here's what I found about case gauges vs. the plunk test. Sometimes stuff may pass the plunk test but rotate / re-orient the case a bit and they will not drop all the way in. Case symmetry or lack of it can cause failures to chamber. My EGW case gauges will check the whole case (even the rim where needed) and if it fits the EGW, it will fit my chambers. Also for rimmed and semi rimmed cases the case gauge will tell if the rim has a problem. Anyway, I started out with the four caliber gauge and for production I wound up buying the 7 round models for all the calibers I load.
  11. I also use the slide stop to release the slide, and the stock part on my 2.0 was impossible to operate as a release. The PC has an extended SS (on the left side only which I'm not sure they will sell) and luckily I found two on Ebay. Now I can operate them like my 1911's, I just find it faster than the "slingshot" method. Anyway, failing finding a factory part you "could" get a standard part, heat it with a torch and form it outward and quench it in oil. I did this on my Sig X5 and I find it far easier to use now. So you know if your M&P has the frame safety you have to train to swipe down on the release. If applied poorly (up along the grip then down) you'll engage the frame safety. Not good in a match.
  12. Are the frames the same with both of these slides? From what I see in the auction sites, I "think" the 4 inch slides were made for the compact frame?
  13. Done that. I'm loading since the 70's not a tyro.
  14. RCBS dies and of course it's adjusted to touch the shell plate / holder.
  15. It doesn't matter whether I use a single stage or 550 press, too many of my .223 cases (once fired mixed head stamps) fail the plunk test in a case gauge after sizing. It's aggravating to say the least so I'm thinking about a Case Pro for .223 only. As I said, I'm using mixed head stamps but the issue remains even if I select cases by brand. I get about 15% plunk failures. I've resorted to sizing / decapping, plunk test, discard failed cases, prime and go forward so in reality I'm thinking that case loss is in the long run less of a hassle and expense than a case sizer? I don't shoot a LOT of .223 (maybe a thou a year) and do not have any issues with .357 Sig, .357 mag, .40, 10mm, .45, .45 Colt, or .45 WM so additional die kits are not an issue nor is production / speed. My Q's are for other .223 loaders who have used the Case Pro. It would be a bummer to roll the cases if it isn't 100% reliable, what's the consensus on the issue? Over the years, rather than pulling those loaded rounds that failed before getting somewhat better results with the SB die, I just saved them in a baggie. Can the Case Pro safely roll a loaded .223? Is the half mounting kit needed? Or can it be mounted to the bench and be run without any of the feed tubes? Finally, I'm puzzled by their claim to not need lube. The neck still needs sizing, no? Do Case Pro users then just use a universal decapping die and prime at the first station in say a 550 after running brass in the Case Pro?
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