Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Baragasam

  1. I paid $259.16 total shipped for the 9mm & .223 carbide sizing / depriming (combo) dies. They were to be used on the Evolution. Any make/model alternatives suggestions?
  2. Anyone ordered Dillon dies this year? If so, how's the lead time so far?
  3. Mark 7 has 2 mechanical powder measures that I've seen. Once with a machined body (2 actuating arms on the powder barrel) and one with a cast body (1 actuating arm on the powder barrel). I only have experience with the machined body one with 2 actuating arms. I've had constant issues with the screws on the barrel coming loose even after hand tightening multiple times. I also use one body for 2 drums (pistol & rifle) and have had those custom screws snap right where the thread ends during loosening. Mark 7 replaced one of my drums once and the second time that has happened they told me to purchase a new one so one of my drums only has 1 actuating arm like their cast body version powder measure. I've since ditched their screws, purchased matching thread grade 8 screws from Lowe's and they've been working great without coming loose or snapping.
  4. Happy new years to you too @Sigarmsp226 as well as everyone on this forum! I was in MS for work training several years ago! Biloxi if I remembered correctly, beautiful shoreline. Although it can be assumed that the press and it's components were machined properly, tuning might be needed during the assembly process. It took me about a month just to get 9mm right but the results were amazing compared to my previous setups (much less defects, more accurate loads, less wastage and downtime). 223 is quite a bit more of a challenge that I am still working hard on getting right. Another forum member here by the name of @RGA has been spectacularly helpful to me with his wealth of knowledge. He shares many of our experiences and frustrations with Mark 7 as well as the Evolution.
  5. thank you @TRPOperator for sharing your experience. I was wondering if there was a possibility of parts being out of spec. Aside from the tool head was the primer shuttle/slide/bar out of spec too?
  6. No problem at all @Sigarmsp226! I'm a visual learner so pictures is always helpful when there's so many terminologies involved. You should not need to over-tighten the shell plate as that may cause other issues. The indexing pawl which is a little arm that moves the shell plate to the next position at the end of the Upwards stroke is very small and over tightening the shell plate may cause premature wear on that part as well as the shell plate in my guess. Without shells on the shell plate try and see if it lines up properly with primers and what other effects happen to the primer slide/shuttle during the downstroke. Signing off for now, wishing everyone on this forum a safe and happy new years eve and that all our reloading problems will be solved
  7. Per the Mark 7 manual 2.0: There are only really 2 adjustment points that we can do which is #1 and #3, #2 is set right (on my press) from factory. @MountainMan is correct, the shuttle during priming in it's forward position is aligned through the primer slide/shuttle alignment rod that is built into the toolhead (circled in red below). When the alignment rod is not in the shuttle/slide it will not be aligned to the primer punch.
  8. @MountainMan's advise on the priming system setup is spot on. I too removed the plastic triangle tip cover that covers the priming shuttle "slide" as it travels from the bottom of the primer tube to the bottom of the shell plate. It was causing hang-ups for me there as well whenever the press was experiencing shakes or vibrations. Having a sturdy reloading platform is crucial to every complex reloading system in my experience. Adjusting the shuttle stop position when it's retracted under the primer tube also eliminated some failures for me as well as @MountainMan suggests. I also adjusted the primer shuttle actuating bar/spring/nut system on the back (please refer to maintenance manual) so that the shuttle is engaged earlier on the downstroke which has helped a lot as well. The engagement is much more direct. I too also wonder what those impression marks on the shuttle are as mine doesn't have them. Good lookout on that one @MountainMan I also tried @MountainMan's idea of using the sizing die without the decapper on the priming station. I added a snake camera to where the decapper was which allowed me to see on my laptop what the primers were doing as they are being seated into the primer pocket. My problem was the priming punch/pin moving the shells ever so slightly to where it tilts and hits the bottom body of the sizing die instead of going into the sizing die. You're welcome @Sigarmsp226! The Evolution press is definitely not for the beginner reloader and you are making great progress with the available information. I too had many complications when I moved onto the Evolution and am still learning. But by design idea it is the best on the market for my hobby reloading needs in my experience. Correct me if I'm wrong but from my findings the Evo is the only press on the market that you can install a primer orientation sensor on. I reload once fired mixed range brass. With 9mm I don't prep my brass aside from cleaning it and culling nickel plated cases after cleaning (I reload those too but separately as a personal preference). I also have plans on automating (manual loading is not for me) and the Evo is by far the only press that is built with automation first and foremost by design and at consumer prices. You are not doing yourself a disservice by selling your RL1100 for the Evolution if you want the current best consumer/hobby/light-commercial (as advertised by Mark 7) automated reloading machine that has an in-house automation add-on and with the most advanced (as of 2020) monitoring capabilities. In regards to the cyclic speed it's not only how fast rounds are being produced but also how fast the shell plate is being indexed (up-stroke) and how fast the down-stroke is. Happy new years to you all as well! Hopefully this coming year brings us that primer oscillator 2.0 and Bosch trimmer 2.0! As well as customer retention management....
  9. Hey @Sigarmsp226, When my evolution gets dirty from reloading the priming system starts to jam up (sideway primers, jammed/rough primer shuttle movement, priming pin gets dirty and can cause hiccups too). I typically do a cleanup during caliber changes and follow the maintenance manual for greases/oils. But since you just started on yours I doubt that's the case. My Evolution was shipped with the small primer shuttle installed which looks like yours. Works with both SPP and SRP. I used the same priming pin for both but calibrated seating depth differently for various primers and calibers. Here's a list of variables which I found on the Evolution that helped with priming issues (these are just my findings, use their maintenance manual for direct instruction): -Ensure the shell plate is properly installed with the shell plate nut: this decreases flex of the shell plate and allows the cases to be aligned properly. -Priming hold down dies has helped make priming much more consistent in both depth and overall rigidity during the primer insertion process. I use the Dillon and Lyman Universal hold down dies. The Dillon one flares/bells the case mouth ever so slightly to seat FMJs. My experience is cast bullets tend to shave a bit with just the Dillon die so I use a Lee universal expander as well. With the Bullet Feeder, do not use the Double Alpha powder funnel in the Bullet Feeder package in the Mark 7 Mechanical Powder measure to expand case mouths as Mark 7 will not warrant their mechanical powder measure if done so (per Michael Landrum and Misty Kapke from Mark 7). -Make sure the swage station (if priming and swaging at the same time) also has a hold down die. This prevents the swaging action from flexing the shell plate upwards and out of level. -Cyclic speed is crucial: Complex reloading machines can never go too slow but going too fast tends to cause failures. Primers and shells can shake/vibrate/jump out of place which prevents proper line up during the down stroke. -When there's abnormal resistance met at the down stroke, do not go further as that can cause further complications. Without sensors the stations I typically had resistance during hang-ups were: Decap, Swage, Priming and bullet seat station if the bullet tips over.
  10. Hey thanks for getting back to us if anything. It's always good to have more information on how Mark 7's customer service works which in my opinion creates transparency for not only current customers but new customers alike. I have no doubt the new powder measure is just as accurate as the older iteration. We all have our own perceived value on things. But I agree they should update their advertising to current inventory as it would be false and misleading.
  11. Sorry to hear bud, same experience as you with their CS right now. They both used to be really good but I guess they're swamped with inquiry right now and trying to take care of 'newer' customers first. Like I said your best bet is hold onto the "cheaper" powder measure and don't open it until they respond back while in the meantime finding yourself a powder measure that you like. Aside from the hardware issues I've had with their powder measure it's been really accurate to use with both ball and flake powders. Give Mark 7 a call, I don't think they're so good with emails.
  12. WOW, sounds like a downgrade more than an upgrade. Planned or unplanned automation shouldn't mean getting a "crappier" powder measure. I personally went with the EVO vs a Dillon because of planned automation. I know Mark VII was bought out by Lyman and ever since then many aspects of the company and their products has changed. Ask them for a refund on the powder measure and get yourself another brand of powder measure from other companies. If you paid the same for a lesser of-a-quality product than expected without any notice that is what I would do.
  13. You're possibly correct. It could also be them simplifying the design to eliminate weak points too. Until we get a straight answer from them I would not assume until then. I also forgot to mention when I first received my Mark VII it was missing a lot of the caliber conversion parts too (I ordered it in 9mm, 223 and 308). They took care of that quite promptly but any quality or functionality issues they try to sweep it under the rug or play it off.
  14. Here's her email Misty Kapke <misty@markvii-loading.com>. She's.......sometimes helpful. I've also gotten help from their other CS Michael Landrum <mlandrum@markvii-loading.com> whom I think he may have forgotten about my support ticket by now... (Been trying to send my rifle rotary drum to them for repairs because of a snapped factory screw: hence why I suggested upgrading to the Lowe's grade 8's; problem solved)
  15. Yup, this is the same as mine. 2 linkage arms on each side. @Sigarmsp226 is right they have a new design. I'm surprised they didn't contact the previous owners with the last gen for a recall. I wondered what was their reasoning on changing the design....
  16. I too have issues getting 9mm and 223 cases to feed 100% initially. I tried solving this issue on 9mm by vice clamping the factory 3D printed ramp to the bowl and adding the spring in front of the ramp. I still sometimes get 9mm cases stuck and will try drilling a piece of triangle metal into the bowl near the pinch point next year when I get back to it. 223 caliber's main issue is dropping into the feed tube consistently. I can seem to adjust the trap door perfectly to the point where it drops base down. Too far open and my cases sometimes doesn't drop quick enough and causes a jam at the trap door. Also, the amount being put into the case feeder bowl is very important. How much one puts into the bowl affects the collating speed which affects the case drop speed which requires the user to adjust the trap door. Keeping the limits on the amount of brass being fed into the bowl each time I find is also crucial. Honestly a poor design in case feeding which Mark 7 should recall.
  17. Hi! Apologies for the late reply. I took the existing bolts to Lowes to use on their thread finder board mounted on the shelves in the hardware aisle. I also got the longer option since there's no exact length match to the factory Mark 7 screws. You also want to get a bunch of flat washers to help everything stay flush. I also use just a tiny bit of blue loctite to hold everything together. Do not and I repeat do not use their factory screws, it's one of the most pain in the ass parts I've dealt with on this press and their customer service in taking care of this is truly lacking.
  18. I use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Homgeek-Milligram-Calibration-Tweezers-Weighing/dp/B071GYVQF3/ref=psdc_678508011_t1_B07X1R442K?th=1 You are correct, mine fluctuates at 0.02 grain as well. The powder measure rarely dropped with enough deviation to change more than 0.02 grains to show me that it has changed at all for the pistol powder. Some helpful tips I got were to weigh charges in a room that has little to no air draft, turn on the scale for several minutes (apparently there's a "warm up") and always calibrate the scale before usage (typically that's once a day for me or if I take pauses of hours in between).
  19. I have adjusted the plunger assembly to have almost a quarter inch of space between the assembly and the housing. I always weigh my charges down to 0.01 grain consistency, so far no issues with the gap affecting the charge. The mechanical measure is actually very accurate in terms of powder charge especially for flake style powders (typical pistol or shotgun powders). Ball powder (rifle typically) is also very accurate but I've had deviations of as much as 0.3 grains for ball/rifle powder and about 0.02 grain difference for pistol/flake powders. I definitely recommend using grade 8 screws if you can find any and washers as spacers. The proprietary factory screws are garbage.
  20. Several things I want to add from my findings of reloading 9mm and 223 Rem on this press. 9mm or any pistol/straight walled cartridge that does not require trimming is great. But it is when one runs into having to trim cases that becomes an issue on the press. 223 or any bottlenecked cases for the matter requires sizing lube in order to properly size cases and prevent stuck cases which can start to gunk up the case feeder bowl and tube as well as the rest of the press itself. I reload strictly once fired brass and not virgin brass like most of the youtube reviews/overviews show which means more carbon/dirt/gunk to deal with. I load in volume and therefore wet tumble my once fired brass in a cement mixer with dish soap. Now the problem here is attempting to do one pass reloading on the press. Technically it is possible to do it if a trimmer/sizer combo die is set up on the swage station although not ideal as there are 3 tasks being done in a single station (size+trim+swage). I do not believe this press is truly able to do 1 pass reloading with any bottlenecked calibers WITH MIXED RANGE BRASS (Military crimps, dirt, carbon etc). It is not hard to convert but be aware that if you do reload once fired mixed brass, it is best to do it in 2 passes. Even then the press will still be gunked up from contaminants inside the primer pocket (after it is decapped) and inside the case.
  21. I'm currently experiencing similar customer service as you. Having issues with the quality of the hardware on their mechanical powder measure.
  22. Not sure if I should start a new thread for this but is anyone having issues with the mechanical powder measure rotary barrel screw? I do not use the powder measure station to flare 9mm or 223 cases and adjust the drop height to have some space between the adjuster (plunger assembly) and housing (main body). I've snapped 2 of the factory stainless steel bolts that connect the arm to the barrel during disassembly (not usage/reloading). The bolts snaps exactly between the threads and smooth shaft. I've since upgraded the bolts to grade 8s from my local hardware store and that eliminated the issue. I do not torque these bolts down, once they stop turning I snug it with a hex key (no "1/8ths extra turn" or anything like that). They also come loose often during reloading and I've had the powdery drum barrel arms come off as the screws back out. The first time this has happened on my pistol drum barrel Mark Vii replaced it for free but the second time this happened they wanted me to purchase a whole new rebuild kit for over $100. I'm attempting to extract the snapped bolt but it will be a tough job being that the screw is so deep and small. Aside from the previously mentioned weak points on the press such as the primer feed shuttle, this is another weak point of their mechanical powder measure.
  • Create New...