JDalton203

Replied, thanks for the info Kurt!!

Same haha! I'll pull the video up as well as I am performing each drill.

Thanks sorry!

Also sorry for the late reply guys!

So it changed, for the first year or so no issues. Currently been fighting it for forever though. I thought this might be the case as well but I checked it every time and found the spring wasn't binding up, at least not from this issue. https://rothperformance.com/product/rci-follower/ This looks like the follower that came with my gun and I don't see any nicks/burrs or anything on it that would catch. What work do you do to the factory follower? I tried a low drag phase 5 follower for a little bit because I suspected the follower but it ran about the same. This is a good point on the mag spring, I generally bend the cut side a bit but I will try what you are saying and see if that helps. Some good points! I'll play around with the follower/mag spring again and double check that the carrier dog isn't wobbling around.

Dryfire 15 mins a day also, I try really hard not to change anything equipment wise but if I do I check it through a couple extra sessions and a range trip pre-match.

This sounds amazing haha!

This this this, it has helped me out so much lately. Also found this out from a Ben Stoeger video.

Had this issue as well, started and ended all of my dry fire sessions with 50 reps of just looking at the target and drawing. It eventually has settled in muscle memory.

Sounds like you're all set gear wise!

Welcome Ken! Awesome to have another guy from so close to home.

Whoops will do thanks and I will reach out!

If you are trying to keep costs super super low just to get back into things you can always go for an LEO trade-in glock (sometimes you can even find the sig) or something (you probably won't find the optics cut), but then youre only $300ish for the pistola. I bought a tp9sfx when I first started for like $450 from kygunco, for that price that's a hell of an optics cut pistol though not as heavy/nice as the rival-s. I think you can still find them for around there.

I should note that I did find this extremely informative thread by Jason that you guys helped out with awhile ago but didn't know if this was going to help solve my issue because my shells aren't making it all the way out onto the follower (though I have experienced this same issue but rarely).

My buddy runs a VR at our local matches and he was runing into the same thing so he picked up a holosun with a big viewing window and the big circle around the center dot. He says as long as the big circle is touching the clay he's been golden and is much quicker/easier to find.

So I've searched the deep dark places of the internet and tried a number of things but I am still having problems with my benelli 3 gun shotgun not feeding shells. Figured I would ask you guys and see if anyone thought of something or knows something I don't (a very common occurrence). Shotgun is a fairly stock benelli 3 gun version (I believe roth performance still does this work?) with a taccom carbon fiber +9 extended tube and their extension nut. This may be part of the issue but the nut is fairly a pain to keep in place, I finally started putting a dot of loctite on it to keep it tighten down. Follower is the one supplied by roth and the magazine springs are nordic components and generally cut to 14-16" past the tube though I literally tried running it full length this last time just to see if it would help out. I've had the gun about 2 years and I am guessing about 3k rounds through it. I haven't replaced any internals except for the magazine spring and tried a couple different followers. I generally shoot 7.5shot 3 dram at 1200 fps. It seems to do it with federals/fiocchis/winchester AAs. Same issue with shells running low 1100 to 1300fps, shot sizes from 6 to 9 have been tried with about the same issues (3 dram as well). I thought maybe since it was an inertia gun it very well could have been me trying to go too fast and not fully having the gun secure so I tested it a bunch at the range with a very steady hold and it does it whether I shoot fast or slow. Symptoms: Shells are getting caught part way out of the magazine tube, sometimes just barely, most of the time they are 90% of the way out. This happens about once or twice now a stage, with the tube completely full, or only partially full because of tac-ops. Fairly annoying because I have to shove my hand down there midstage and get them to come all of the way out, not sure why they are binding. Things I've tried: Cleaning the gun/keeping it lubed (no grease just oil, not excessive). Doesn't seem to make a difference. Tried an extended follower but the roth one is really just as long. Tried magazine spring lengths from 9-16" past the end of the magtube plus a completely uncut spring. The longer spring lengths seemed to help a little but no real difference. Checked to see if the shells are catching on anything, thought maybe it was the shell catch that roth has modified a little but it doesn't seem to be. The little lip around where the mag tube attaches to the receiver was another thought but I checked for sharp edges and found nothing and it appears to be just as normal as my stoegers and other benellis that don't have issues. Anyways, if someone has an idea I greatly appreciate it! I'll try and get some pictures next time I am at the range. Just an annoyance and I'm wasting time on the dreaded clock fixing it each stage. Thanks!!

I started on a progressive as well, you'll be just fine and started with 9mm helps because it's not that difficult or complicated. Shameless plug for the RMR guys, they make an excellent projectile along with our local accura outdoors guys. I say this and run probably 50/50 between these two plated options and 135 blue bullets (I shoot mostly 3 gun though so like a little more knock-down power for plates/spinners, I shoot 124s/125s for USPSA). I've had good luck with the slower (but dirtier) CFE Pistol for my ported barrels and tightgroup for my non-ported. I read a bunch of manuals when I got started and set everything up myself with the help of youtube, local reloading buddy came by and checked my setup though (cause I'm a little cautious haha), probably unnecessary. The posts before me have tons of awesome knowledge and these guys are awesome, good luck and enjoy!

I've used it quite a bit, don't think I have ever had this be an issue in 10k rounds or so, maybe others have but so far good to go for me.

Oh and the 160-300 degree temperatures that cerakote need for curing are much much lower than the heat treating process and really shouldn't play a factor in changing up the factory heat treat either. Good luck though! Always a bit daunting to try something new on your own guns haha.

I'm with Joe, tons of luck cerakoting slides/frames/etc but the duracoat goes on way too thick in my opinion for mating parts. I would stick to just the outside. Others may have had better luck than me with duracoat though! Can always blast it back off but then you would need to figure out how to coat the mating points with something else (re-blue/cerakote probably).

This solved a lot of my issues thanks! Great thread

Looks great! I've never ran the clamp on my tubes... even with my tubes that hold 12 total.

Thanks! Those are who I have been using but figured I would check, appreciate it

Like others have mentioned I've had really good luck with my FM products with the 16" upper on it, I enjoy shooting the AR style a lot more than the rifle style of the ruger carbine (though both have run flawlessly for me). Brownells/Primary Arms generally has the upper and lowers in stock, I bought them seperate to keep right at $700.