SGT_Schultz

I agree it's a murky area. I agree with @slavex interpretation, since decocker CZs drop the hammer to that spot. It is not unsafe. If it was the penalty would be a DQ and not a bump to open. I don't have any CZs with a safety, so I don't know if the safety can even be engaged with the hammer at half cock. Something tells me that it depends on how the safety was fitted to the sear in each individual gun. The easiest thing to do is to do away with any mention of half cock in the rules. The difference in the force it takes to pull the trigger is hardly measurable, and I've tried. It's really only a difference in reach to the trigger.

I've shot in the rain. Didn't need a crisp dot to make the first hit and the slide cycle threw most of the water off. There are other gun related things that matter to cops that are of no concern to me.

So the frame was refinished as well.

Go to gunbroker and you'll find dozens of NIB Shadow 2s for $1100-$1200. I wouldn't trade straight across unless you're overestimating the value of your trade.

There is only one instance in which you're right: holstering a handgun with the hammer cocked and no safety engaged. Otherwise, no, it isn't a DQ.

@BhamCZ the fact that the slide has a different serial number wouldn't matter to me. it's the correct slide for a Shadow 2. That's all that matters. The serial numbers on the barrel and slide matter only to Europeans due to laws in their countries.

Can the safety on that pistol be engaged when the hammer is down?

That's not how it necessarily works. Tolerances are meaningless unless the basic dimensions are correct. All I'll say about this topic (design and mfg of mating parts) is that it's one in which I have professional expertise and I can spot BS a mile away.

Sorry about that. But it got me red to see some really bad advice given to a new shooter.

OK, first off most of the advice you've been give is very good with one notable exception that I already pointed out for you. So some of what I'm going to say might be repetitive but you might find some of it useful. Let's start with dry fire. The point of dry fire isn't to play clickity click with the trigger. Resetting the trigger after every pull in every dry fire drill is a complete waste of time. Save that for trigger manipulation drills. For everything else you do in dry fire: draws, reloads, transitions, movement with the gun, unloaded starts (from the holster and from a table), etc you don't even need to touch the trigger at all. And let me assure you that it's all those non-trigger pressing drills the ones that will provide you with the most benefit. That's not to say that you shouldn't work on a clean trigger press without jerking it. But a strong, correct grip will fix most of your trigger press problems. At the stage where you are the first live fire priority is basic marksmanship and developing a grip that will make the pistol recoil predictably and brings the sights back on target in alignment without having to fix it afterwards. As soon as you have basic marksmanship down relatively well (to me that means you can land 10/10 shots in the A zone at 25 yards at a slow pace) then you need to start amping up the speed of your shooting in parallel to developing your grip. A grip is useless if it can hold together when shooting one round per second but falls apart when trying to shoot two or three rounds per second. I can't stress this enough, shooting speed will not happen on its own after you get "more accurate". You have to force the issue and fail. As to the gun, it depends. If the Glock 19 is your carry gun, start with the G22. But even if you start with Glock, put some time with the CZ. As you develop you might find that the CZ might make shooting fast and accurately easier. Whatever you do make sure the pistol you choose has an extremely rough grip. You can get with in many ways. With the Glocks you can add skateboard tape, you can stipple them, or you can glue on silicon carbide. With the CZ, LOK Bogie grip panels are the ticket, as well as skateboard tape on the front and back straps. Also get some liquid chalk grip lotion from Amazon and put it on your hands every time you dry or live fire.

LOL This is plain bulls#!t @chrisrdba please don't listen to this bad advice. Never, EVER, give up on a stage no matter how badly you think you screwed up. While an unplanned slide lock reload is not good for your stage time, giving up after one seeds some really disastrous habits in your mind.

More than once I've planned a slide lock reload when there's a move between positions that takes more than a few steps in order to take advantage of that 11th round. It has to be a really short move before the extra .5 second it takes my support hand thumb to hit the slide release on my way to reestablishing my grip to make a negative difference.

I started in Production three years ago. I have quite a bit of feedback for you and I'll do it when am back on a real key board this evening. Typing a detailed answer on a phone sucks.

There's nothing strange about a range officer striving to know the rules to make a correct call. And yes, the official start of the course of fire matters very much. The starting condition for the pistols we're discussing here is defined in 8.1.2.3 and that starting condition applies during the course of fire, which begins at the make ready command. Personally I disagree with that special condition but my likes and dislikes don't enter into this.

That isn't what I'm saying at all and not sure how that got construed so. DA/SA guns without decockers are the minority and only two companies still make them in any significant numbers.

Not enough people are paying

I wonder why.......

As I said, I didn't care to list all the oddball exceptions.

I'm not saying that. The rulebook says that.

Actually, CZ and Tanfoglio are the only two companies that make DA/SA pistols without decockers. They also make DA/SA pistols with decockers. Pretty much everyone else who makes DA/SA pistols with a safety integrates it with the decocker, so the hammer decocks when you put the lever on safe and it cannot be carried cocked and locked. Beretta 92F is the most common of the type. I'm ignoring all the turkish clones out there.

I had a similar thought yesterday, and it was to bed the optic to the plate to make up any gaps just like you bed a picatinny base to the top of a rifle receiver. One had to be very careful to not bed around any reverse tapered surfaces of the sight or it will be mechanically locked in place permanently.

It doesn't matter what they said. Certain Holosun pistol RDS sights fit any plate made for the RMR (FCD included) because those Holosun models have the same base design as the RMR.

The pistols that we're talking about here are designed to be carried either cocked and locked or hammer down equally safely. Your safety argument doesn't apply. Whoever teaches that manually lowering the hammer is an AD waiting to happen is someone I wouldn't listen to because they clearly don't know how to do it safely. The statement that hammer down carry will lead to an AD on a dropped pistol MIGHT be true if a gun has no firing pin block AND its firing pin and/or firing pin spring are not OEM. It's definitely horses#!t if the pistol in question has a firing pin block. Production division was created, in part, to give non SAO pistols a division where they would not be at a disadvantage against SAO pistols. Sice carry optics was an outgrow of production, same applies. There will be massive opposition to allowing any pistol to start in single action in either division.

And speed will never come if you continue to focus in accuracy and hoping to somehow get faster. The old "slow is smooth and smooth is fast" saying is complete horses#!t. If you want to go fast you need to push to go fast. There's a lot more to it than that and I 100% agree with others who've said that getting competition-focused training sooner than later is very beneficial. You cannot limit yourself to your local area. Travel to one if you can't get what you need at home. Lastly, some top level shooters have published books with training and practice systems for self improvement. Ben Stoeger and Steve Anderson come to mind. If you want to start progressing spend the money on some of those books and put the time and energy into it. Three years with no measurable improvement means that the path that you're on now is ineffective and wasteful.

A fudgecicle nobody but a few crayon chewers and winder likkers want LOLWTF That's what appears when I type l i m i t e d m i n o r (without the spaces obviously).