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ElvisUSMC

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Everything posted by ElvisUSMC

  1. I've installed a Henning Flat trigger into my Stock III 10mm. Yes, moving to SA only was intentional. Henning said is was possible, but it required tuning. Concurrent with the install I put a EGW SA hammer and EGW SA hard sear in as well. The trigger functions and it is freak'n awesome! It has a very short take up, crisp wall and immediate break. The problem: If I pull the trigger, and hold the trigger, cycle the slide, the hammer auto drops. The hammer rides the back of the slide as the gun goes into battery. THERE IS NO HAMMER/TRIGGER RESET If I do the same thing, but hold the hammer back, after cycling the slide, and slowly release the trigger, the trigger resets after a VERY short forward travel and catches the hammer. Also, the safety will not engage with the hammer fully cocked. It will only engage at the half-cock notch, which is very close to full hammer down. However, in that position, if the safety is switched to off, the trigger functions and the hammer falls that very short distance to down. Observing the sear when the hammer is fully back, the port side (left, if looking at the gun from back to front) of the sear is about 2/3rds raised but does not have enough clearance for the safety bar/riser to fit under it and block the sear. So I need help working through this...if even possible. I don't want to start removing metal until I know from where, and how much, and/or if it's a parts issue? There is no place for an interrupter on the EGW SA hammer so there isn't one in the gun currently, did I miss a component that is part of the SA assembly? I haven't live fired it and won't until I resolve this, because I don't consider it safe. Please help me work though this. I'm on mandatory self-isolation and this is one of my projects. Parts in the gun: Henning Spring kit (14lb hammer spring) Henning XL Firing pin EAA xtreme Firing pin safety EGW SA Hard sear EGW SA P9 Hammer Henning Flat Trigger (Pre and over travel screws in "factory" New in box settings)
  2. Thanks for the load advice, does the .40 not work well with 200gr coated around 850fps? A 180gr needs to be around 950fps to be just above Major, right? Does one feel "softer" or is it about the recoil profile and sights back on target? I've shot a few USPSA lvl1, and 3-gun matches with X5's and 1911's. I've got a Shadow 2 all tuned up but since I have the Stock III, I figured it would be cool to have a Limited version of the S2. I shoot at a local range as much as is feasible but finding a range that has bay's and steel without an exclusive pay-through-your-nose plan is really tough.
  3. Thank you, that's the important info i needed to make an informed decision.
  4. I have a Tanfoglio Stock III in 10mm. It's a great pistol, by far my most accurate, and after tuning shoots awesome. However, I like to shoot USPSA from time to time, and I'd like to shoot it in Limited (Major), but I'm warring with developing 10mm Soft Major loads and the cost, vs .40 that is loaded to 10mm length and makes about 3-5% over Major PF. Should I even try to shoot .40 like this in a competition environment? Or if that's what I want to do, do I need to get a .40 conversion barrel (Patriot Defense)? Or is there trick out there about finding cheap 10mm brass and a soft major PF factor load with 200gr?
  5. I bought the trigger direct from them in Jan 20. I looked at their website and didn't see anything about a P-10F OR disclaimer. I'll probably send it in to CZ once they open post plague shutdown.
  6. 1) I have a US made P10F OR, and it's slide to frame lock up is rather loose (0.04" play L/R with vertical play as well) and rattles like an old 1911 when shaken. I've put about 300 rnds through it and can't get it to hold a tight group. For example, using the same ammo, I can shoot inside its group by half with my P-09, P-10C, and Shadow 2. 2) Also, I installed a HB industries Theta Trigger and striker spring and 15lb recoil spring. Every 2-3 rnds the trigger doesn't reset, although the slide has fully cycled and loaded the next round. I could cause this malfunction during dry-fire by functioning the trigger, pulling up on the slide, and cycling it while pulling up. I've taken the pistol back to stock but I can't replicate the malfunction. I like how this pistol feels and my P10C functions flawlessly with the same mods above. It's very frustrating and eroding my confidence with this specific pistol. Edit: PS: I should also add that I originally installed the aluminum CGW trigger before the HBI Theta, it did the same malfunction. Thoughts?
  7. The 20lb recoil spring is a huge improvement. The stock spring is just that, stock, to all calibers in the Stock III. I've done the full tune on the Stock III (10mm) and it is probably my favorite pistol, and it is absolutely the most accurate. This is accounting for the Shadow 2 with accubushing w/full polish and CGW short reach trigger kit. The Stock III shoots inside it by half. My Stock III 10mm has the confit guiderod, 20lb wolf recoil spring, reduced 14lb hammer spring, and the most important thing, a full polish on all the touching surfaces. I went back to the stock wood grips after getting some flat g10 bogies Lok grips, the fit is better and my hand doesn't get torn up.
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