BHogan

Thanks RePete. So, i guess aim for that 7.1gr FMJ load as the max vs the 6.2 LRN, or 7.5 CPRN? What's even more strange to me in all this is while the Alliant Data is shows that LRN as a 6.2gr max load, in the Speer loading data they show the same bullet as having a 7.2gr max. Same company, same bullet, a full grain difference between the two data sets, just has me nervous as something must be wrong. I should probably get a chrono i guess. I worked up some at 6.0 and 6.2, I might just keep going on up to 7.2 in .2 increments as you suggest and watch for whatever I can.

Hello, I'm working up some 230gr XTreme plated bullets with BE-86, and I'm scratching my head on the charge weights I'm finding on Alliant's site. They show CPRN as having the highest max weight, well above LRN and even above FMJ. In fact, they've got CPRN higher than +P FMJ @230 grain. I've noticed the same thing in their data for other powders and calibers too - the charge weights for the CPRN seem very high across the board. Per Speer's site the CPRN seems to be a garden-variety. .451 plated bullet vs their TMJ bullet which they say say should be loaded like an FMJ due to the much thicker plating. Any insights into why the CPRN data are so loaded so heavy? I asked Alliant but of course all they can say is that their data is specfic to that exact Speer bullet, so I guess the question is whether there's something unusual about the Speer plated bullets that leads to less pressure at an equivalent charge weight than other plated bullets:

That's a heck of an offer - I'll DM you. After spending way too much time and energy thinking over this grip thing, I think just might put my tax return to work for me and order both. Something about the internet, it's amazing how much time a guy can waste agonizing over little decisions like this lol

This is interesting, you're saying in your case you found the lemon graters grippier than the bogies? I really want 'em but I'm finding such conflicting info, and for $85 I don't want to make the wrong choice. I shouldn't put so much stock in the looks of course, but those cz aluminum in titanium really have my number!

I really like the looks of the aluminum but worry about how grippy they are too. Guys that have run them and left them for Loks, are they actually slippery, or just not as hand-velroey as the bogies?

Thanks Steve-O. I realized the prices are pretty good, I'll probably just get 13-15 so I can experiment with different springs and loads.

Thanks Stuart. Is the reason it's happening with a full mag likely because of the extra mass the mag spring is working against slowing it down? That seems to make sense. I'll get that ordered tonight. +5%? Also, what would you recommend on the recoil spring for most factory ammo, like 14#? I'm running a 13# hammer spring.

Well, I've run few hundred more rounds though it and what I'm finding is that it's both mags, and only at the top of the mag, like in the first 4-5 rounds, and basically every time now.. Seems to happen most often around round 2 or 3 that makes any sense. It's getting stuck right at the base of the feed ramp and to clear it I have to drop the mag and the round usually hit falls through down the well. These are 18 round mags, and I'm wondering if they're binding up when full. Is it possible they just need to loosen up? Would storing them full help at all?

Here's the final, if I go any less than this there's still bell. Thanks for all the help everyone, I may be back with more questions! (HPJ thanks for the heads up on other things to watch for).

Well, now I'm just blowing off work, this is way more fun. Is this about right or still too much?

Thanks for the info sigarms, I'll definitely check it out. I went through and sorted 1000 rounds myself, in the end there were like 8 WCCs and just a few other crimped cases, so to make it simple I just took them out of the mix. Had a chance to pull a few. Obviously the three on the left are over crimped, but what a out the one on the right. Should I be trying to have zero scoring of the bullet or will there always be some? Again these are x-treme standard plated.

Good catch...I did mean .1!

Thanks for the additional input guys, I really do appreciate the help as I get started. Ran a few tonight as a maiden voyage, plated 124 Xtreme round nose over Vihtavuori's recommended starting load of 3n37, 5.4gn. A couple things I learned (like just how bad that ski jump really is, and why there's so many things on the market to smooth out the shell plate indexing, WTH!). A couple new questions too: 1) how much variability should I be seeing in the powder throws, is like .1 (full tenth) pretty normal? 2). Is this too much crimp? I'm trying to just take out the bell like I've read but it seems so go from bell to taper all at once. (Edited to put my decimal in the right place)

I'll update and let you all know how I make out, have a box from Powder Valley coming tonight, hope to get started Saturday. Thanks again for all the help!

Bummer, I went through and sorted the first 500, and definitely saw most, if not all, of those headstamps in there at least once. Thanks everyone for all the great input. I'm tempted to just order new brass and not deal with it, or maybe I'll give it a go nice and slow and see. One good thing, I'm 52 years old with two young kids...when I get quiet time I'm in no rush to be done with whatever I'm doing!

Thanks M700, made my day. I spent about two hours reading about primer tube explosions late last night and have myself proper worried now

Read this after my last post...that's definitely reassuring, especially after I've polished all 1000 of these damn things in my fancy new Frankford rotary tumbler. I don't want to start over, lol

What a pain...this one too right? I feel like the only way to bet sure as a noob is to either order new stuff, or decap and swage it all?

Hello, I'm brand new to reloading...I've been reading constantly for over a month, and have a Dillon 650 that's ready to go for the 9mm and 45 ACP I plan to run. I've got myself all worked up over primer safety though, and I'm particularly concerned about crimped primers and could use some expert help. I know I'm looking for that secondary circle around the primer, but I'm not sure my eyes would recognize it and some brass, like blazer and S&B seems to have a bit more space around the primer (maybe just a bigger chamfer?) that I'm not sure about. I bought 1000 Starline 45 cases, but got range brass for the 9mm and I'm kicking myself. I know WCC are supposed to be a concern so I'll start there... Are any of the cases in these two photos crimped? I'm thinking the ones with the dots maybe?

Thanks for all the responses. I was thinking after I posted and realized I can't say for sure it's not the same mag each time, so did go ahead and mark them so i can monitor. The follower on one feels like it kind of hangs up right about where in the mag I'm getting the FTF, always seems to be with about four rounds to go. I'll keep bangin' away and see what i learn! It's been three different cartridges, 115gr Federal and Blazer, and 124gr S&B, all just basic FMJ. I shot all the S&B, but looks like the Federal is .1153" and the Blazer is .1156". I'll definitely give that a shot, seems like a good shortcut to break in anyway, thanks!

Hi, hoping to get some help with a band new SP-01. I've had it for about three weeks and have run about 200 rounds through it at the most, and it's had a FTF about every third mag from day one. The rounds are just not making it into the chamber, so when I drop the mag they drop out. I've tried a variety of ammo including AE, Blazer brass, and S&B, which is a littl hotter than the other two. Am I right that it's likely just short cycling from too heavy a recoil spring? Anything else I should look at? Thanks!

Thanks, I'm going to try the 11.5# spring and see how that goes. This is a mostly a home defense gun so I don't mind a bit of weight on the DA. I talked to David and I think part of the problem is that I was taking DA pulls from hammer down vs half cocked. From half, it's right on 8# as described, on the nose, Now I just need to figure out how to get my fat fingers to get those trigger set screws started. That's the hardest thing I've ever done, lol

I did I did, along with the floating pin. What I haven't done yet is install the travel limit set screws on the trigger (those little things are tough to get started!), but that shouldn't impact break weight right? I'm also wondering if I can trust my wheeler gauge. When I hang a 5# weight from it it does read about exactly that, but I still don't trust it. I may buy another just to put my mind at ease. As far as lubrication, okay to just put a drop of gun oil right on the top of the sear cage assembly and let it leak down in?

Hello! What a great thread this is. I'm a newbie to the site and CZs, but used this thread to do the CGW Short Reset and Reduced Reach kits in my SP-01. This made it VERY easy. My pull is higher than I expected though, and wondering if anyone might have advice. With the 13# blue spring my DA is still well over the 8# limit of my Wheeler pull gauge, and my SA is right around 4.25-4.5#. I didn't go crazy polishing but did all the areas in Atlas's original post with 800 grit followed up with a quick once over with flitz. Any idea why i might still be like a pound or so higher than what everyone else seems to be getting? I mentioned in an earlier post that even after just doing the firing pin, spring, and FPB block spring my DA seemed to go up a bit, despite the plunger being glassy smooth in its travel. Is it possible it's just a lubrication issue?

Ah, I bet that's it. I haven't done that part of the kit yet, I just took kind of a sneak peek pull after I did the slide stuff because I wondered how much of a difference the plunger spring alone would make. Maybe it's not clearing the firing pin right without the new lifter in yet or something