Hockeycor22
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Posts posted by Hockeycor22
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I would be conserned with shooting major loads in that gun. But that’s just my concern. It’s a shorter barrel and on a polymer frame. Most people repling to the autocomp loads are most likely shooting them out of a 2011 platform with a 5” or 5.4” barrel. This gives you a .5”-1” longer barrel for increased velocity on a much heavier and tighter fit gun.
The reason son autocomp is used in 9major loads is it’s one of only a few powders that can fit in the case and push the projective the velocity while giving the comp gas to function.
Of if you are using autocomp, I would try 5.4 or 5.6, just enough to get some gas to the comp and cycle the gun. That’s just my two cents. Hope it helps
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4 hours ago, Thomas H said:
Heh.
That's what they say, yes. That's not what it is.
Note: I also shoot IDPA. That doesn't change the fact that "more real life scenarios" is NOT what happens in IDPA matches. (I'll note also that there are plenty of cases where in USPSA you shoot from behind a barricade, often in classifiers.)
IDPA is definitely geared more towards defensive shooting over uspsa. I mean, you need a cover over your gun, you get penilized if you drop anmag with rounds in it and you must shoot with your body behind cover.
Im not an IDPA shooter but isn’t there a BUG (back up gun) division where your barrel must be 4” or less?
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Custom is the way to go. Call and talk to the different builders mentioned and get a feel for who you would like to work with. Find someone your comfortable and trust and get one in the works. Good luck on your build
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On 3/11/2019 at 2:09 PM, MikeyScuba said:
One shot here and it's less than 1%. I do get rid of Sumbro which is troublesome. Range brass
Lee U die and roll-sized.
There’s your answer, they are
roll sized. Brings the brass back to
factory spec. I was around 10-15% not case gauging before roll sizing. Now 1% or less. but only about 1% wouldn’t fit into 2011 barrel
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On 1/2/2020 at 12:59 PM, ltdmstr said:
If you're existing dropper isn't restricted by the spring tube, the standard version should work fine. All the Pro version does is add more weight in case there's some type of restriction that's preventing the dropper from functioning properly. If that's happening seems to me the correct fix would be to adjust the collator and spring tube so there's no restriction vs. adding more weight to the dropper.
The pro is taller and holds more rounds on it. The little one works just fine. Some people put a 99 cent spring on it to make sure it retracts. I personally haven’t had that issue but will do so if I run into it.
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I have the u die on all my caliber conversions. Remove the lee lock nut with the rubber o ring and replace it with the gold Dillon ones. Works out just fine and holds tight
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On 12/24/2019 at 8:27 PM, DJRyan13 said:
U die and roll size seems overkill, no?
Wouldn’t you want to roll size then resize? If there’s a buldge in the case, casepro eliminates it for you. Sizing die might not take it out completely and just push it towards the bottom.
i still like the u due personally on 9 major to prevent push back....but maybe it’s overkill
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5 hours ago, admcd said:
The red flashy thing from MIB is nothing compared to a blue square of plastic in an RO's hand.
World's best mind eraser.
Haha isn’t that the truth. You can walk a stage 10 times and then instantly forget what your game plan was.
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11 minutes ago, inertia said:
Waiting for the honcho, the frame is tapped so I can go either way when it shows up. If the slide stop is no-go I will still have the normal stop and can pick up a frame mounted solution. Coming from a CZ TSO I run a rest now but its not the one that comes on the gun, mine sits a little further back than the original one is basically right where the slide stop would be, 2011 will be different so trial and error is my plan.
That makes sense. At least the thumb rests are not terribly exspensive so it won’t be too bad for you. Everyone different and prefer different things so make it your gun and rock it
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9 hours ago, inertia said:
Thanks! Up high there I see. PT has re-released thumb rest slide stop so I am going to try that first but if that's not right for me I may go this direction.
I tried the slide stop one and it wasn’t for me. My frame was already tapped so I had the ability to choose between a few. Do you have a Honcho?
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On 11/30/2019 at 10:42 AM, Bmans45 said:
I would like to see more about this . Could you get any pictures or likes?
Could you post a pic or pm with what you did? Thank you. I was looking into doing infared on the discharge chute so it would count completed rounds only
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On 11/22/2019 at 7:22 PM, HesedTech said:
This thread is getting old, but the OP asked how can a case sized by the push through die fail after loading? The answer is the bullet bulges the case in the loading process.
Check your cases before loading, but after sizing and the push through die, and then after. Look at the head stamps and see if there is a pattern, if not maybe you are occasionally seating bullets crooked causing the case side to bulge.
Just a couple of more ideas in a graying thread.
Exactly. If there’s a bundle, we will say a block buldge, even the lee die don’t get rid of it fully. It will push it towards the bottom. To fully eliminate, you would need to roll size.
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On 9/3/2019 at 11:47 AM, Mcfoto said:
Beatings until he gets it right...
Okay, seriously. I'm cross eyed dominant. When learning to shoot, I found myself using a modified Weaver stance with my feet canted to the right. Worked great in most applications but really sucked around the left side of walls. Since, I've been using more of an Isosceles with my head turned. That seems to work in almost all applications.
Exactly. I’m right handed and left eye dominant. Modified isocoles and just turn my head to the right so I can keep both eyes open. I tried the tape or smudging of the left lens but my brain couldn’t figure it out. I just have to close my left eye on a rifle and shotgun.
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On 5/20/2018 at 9:26 PM, kujo929 said:
That sounds like a fun experiment. Will have to set “can you count” up and try it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We have done that before at practice. Put a little piece of tap over the glass or don’t turn the dot on. You can actually hit the targets at a reasonable distance just off muscle memory alone
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1 hour ago, admcd said:
I scored this. I can verify it was, in fact, 12.
I think someone might have video....
Some of the best life lessons are learned the hard way. Lessons learned: read the stage briefings and try not to forget them when the buzzer goes BEEP!
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4 hours ago, inertia said:
Can I ask which rest you run on the Honcho? Pic?
Let me know if you want specific pics and I can send them to you
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4 hours ago, inertia said:
Can I ask which rest you run on the Honcho? Pic?
I run the go gun *thumb rest [generic]* open version. I got it from Atlas and got a spacer for it for when I run open. So for open it’s the optic mount and *thumb rest [generic]*. For limited it the *thumb rest [generic]* with the spacer so it dosent rub the slide. Pics to follow below
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Might be difficult to get out as it’s probably lock tighted in. I have a spare Allen wrench and just hit it with some heat. It usually comes right out
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41 minutes ago, admcd said:
This.
I bought a separate head, powder drop and everything. I think Dillon calls it the quick change kit. Can change calibers in about 5 minutes. As suggested, you really should consider a separate primer assembly - I just swap it out in it's entirity when I need to switch from Large primer to small.
I really only load 9minor, 9major and 40 so it’s all the same primer assembly. But I could see how that would be important. Best of luck reloading a new caliber
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On 12/13/2019 at 5:06 PM, GregInAtl said:
I assume that since I have been loading 45acp, that I won't have to change the powder bar, right. They both use small powder bar?
It’s much easier if you just have a designated powder drop for each tool head. I know it’s an extra $100 or so but it’s worth it to have one for each tool head. Once you change calibers just double check your powder charge is where you left it last time and your good to go.
Its much easier to not have to mess with the tool head. Pull the two pins and swap out.
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Federal syntec is a good option. There sponsored by the uspsa or vise versa and are guaranteed to make power factor. Unless you plan on chronoing ammo before buy a large quantity, most 40 will be well above power factor and be a little snappy compared to ammo designed for uspsa
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Yes I have. I got 12 my first match. It was 6 targets with 3 shooting positions. It was sapposed to be 2 round each free style first box. Second box 1 shot each freestyle 1 shot each stong hand. Well I double taped each target strong hand. Last box was strong hand then weak hand.......I think you can gather what I did. Let’s just say lesson learned, ready and study stage briefing
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I have seen guys load, make ready and forget to remove optic cover. I’m moving to open and got something that shouldn’t allow me to forget
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On 11/16/2019 at 6:01 PM, avastcosmicarena said:
I ordered a honcho and currently own 0 2011 mags. Can someone suggest to me what sizes I should get and how many of each?
Depends on the division you want to shoot and caliber.
match day:
open usually 1-170 and 2-140
limited 3/4-140
limited 10 alotttttt
keep in mind extras are always a good thing as the springs wear, one gets temperamental or you do what I did and accidently step in the feed lips during a match
Match video editing
in PC & Other
Posted
I have a nock off go pro so it’s not an actual go pro. Can you still use the go pro software for video editing? Thank you