Hockeycor22

I have a nock off go pro so it’s not an actual go pro. Can you still use the go pro software for video editing? Thank you

I would be conserned with shooting major loads in that gun. But that’s just my concern. It’s a shorter barrel and on a polymer frame. Most people repling to the autocomp loads are most likely shooting them out of a 2011 platform with a 5” or 5.4” barrel. This gives you a .5”-1” longer barrel for increased velocity on a much heavier and tighter fit gun. The reason son autocomp is used in 9major loads is it’s one of only a few powders that can fit in the case and push the projective the velocity while giving the comp gas to function. Of if you are using autocomp, I would try 5.4 or 5.6, just enough to get some gas to the comp and cycle the gun. That’s just my two cents. Hope it helps

IDPA is definitely geared more towards defensive shooting over uspsa. I mean, you need a cover over your gun, you get penilized if you drop anmag with rounds in it and you must shoot with your body behind cover. Im not an IDPA shooter but isn’t there a BUG (back up gun) division where your barrel must be 4” or less?

Custom is the way to go. Call and talk to the different builders mentioned and get a feel for who you would like to work with. Find someone your comfortable and trust and get one in the works. Good luck on your build

There’s your answer, they are roll sized. Brings the brass back to factory spec. I was around 10-15% not case gauging before roll sizing. Now 1% or less. but only about 1% wouldn’t fit into 2011 barrel

The pro is taller and holds more rounds on it. The little one works just fine. Some people put a 99 cent spring on it to make sure it retracts. I personally haven’t had that issue but will do so if I run into it.

I have the u die on all my caliber conversions. Remove the lee lock nut with the rubber o ring and replace it with the gold Dillon ones. Works out just fine and holds tight

Wouldn’t you want to roll size then resize? If there’s a buldge in the case, casepro eliminates it for you. Sizing die might not take it out completely and just push it towards the bottom. i still like the u due personally on 9 major to prevent push back....but maybe it’s overkill

Haha isn’t that the truth. You can walk a stage 10 times and then instantly forget what your game plan was.

That makes sense. At least the thumb rests are not terribly exspensive so it won’t be too bad for you. Everyone different and prefer different things so make it your gun and rock it

I tried the slide stop one and it wasn’t for me. My frame was already tapped so I had the ability to choose between a few. Do you have a Honcho?

Could you post a pic or pm with what you did? Thank you. I was looking into doing infared on the discharge chute so it would count completed rounds only

Exactly. If there’s a bundle, we will say a block buldge, even the lee die don’t get rid of it fully. It will push it towards the bottom. To fully eliminate, you would need to roll size.

Exactly. I’m right handed and left eye dominant. Modified isocoles and just turn my head to the right so I can keep both eyes open. I tried the tape or smudging of the left lens but my brain couldn’t figure it out. I just have to close my left eye on a rifle and shotgun.

We have done that before at practice. Put a little piece of tap over the glass or don’t turn the dot on. You can actually hit the targets at a reasonable distance just off muscle memory alone

Some of the best life lessons are learned the hard way. Lessons learned: read the stage briefings and try not to forget them when the buzzer goes BEEP!

Let me know if you want specific pics and I can send them to you

I run the go gun *thumb rest [generic]* open version. I got it from Atlas and got a spacer for it for when I run open. So for open it’s the optic mount and *thumb rest [generic]*. For limited it the *thumb rest [generic]* with the spacer so it dosent rub the slide. Pics to follow below

Might be difficult to get out as it’s probably lock tighted in. I have a spare Allen wrench and just hit it with some heat. It usually comes right out

I really only load 9minor, 9major and 40 so it’s all the same primer assembly. But I could see how that would be important. Best of luck reloading a new caliber

It’s much easier if you just have a designated powder drop for each tool head. I know it’s an extra $100 or so but it’s worth it to have one for each tool head. Once you change calibers just double check your powder charge is where you left it last time and your good to go. Its much easier to not have to mess with the tool head. Pull the two pins and swap out.

Federal syntec is a good option. There sponsored by the uspsa or vise versa and are guaranteed to make power factor. Unless you plan on chronoing ammo before buy a large quantity, most 40 will be well above power factor and be a little snappy compared to ammo designed for uspsa

Yes I have. I got 12 my first match. It was 6 targets with 3 shooting positions. It was sapposed to be 2 round each free style first box. Second box 1 shot each freestyle 1 shot each stong hand. Well I double taped each target strong hand. Last box was strong hand then weak hand.......I think you can gather what I did. Let’s just say lesson learned, ready and study stage briefing

I have seen guys load, make ready and forget to remove optic cover. I’m moving to open and got something that shouldn’t allow me to forget

Depends on the division you want to shoot and caliber. match day: open usually 1-170 and 2-140 limited 3/4-140 limited 10 alotttttt keep in mind extras are always a good thing as the springs wear, one gets temperamental or you do what I did and accidently step in the feed lips during a match