Makitaman

Thanks for your permission!

Get you a cheap tumbler from harbor freight just for dirty brass, clean brass before anything, if you have to wash it in a bucket of soap and water. I prep my brass completely before running it through my Dillon. It keeps your case feeder, press, dies, everything clean. It's a hobby enjoy it. YouTube has plenty of information on the subject. My original post was just the concern of the pressure on the shell plate doing a full length sizing.

Slowly getting my XL750 setup. Got a question that's probably been covered before. Using a full resizing die seems like a lot of stress on the shell plate, is this normal? Doesn't matter what dies used Lyman, rcbs, Lee's which are too short, don't have any dillon dies to try. I'm used to doing all the resizing on a separate press where I have a solid shell plate contact, it's extra work but it sure makes everything run smoothly afterwards plus it opens up #1 position on my XL750. No worries of a stuck case or breaking a pin on a cimped or berdan case. Just curious on some of the other users with similar setups and their way of doing things. I'm setting up for 223 which doesn't compare to a straight wall case. Resizing separately helps you sort out the cases with any splits, or cases that needs to be trimmed before loading. If you resize beforehand I think speeds you up with less wear on the XL750. Plus if you end up with a long case after sizing, then what? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Been loading for several years but never stopped learning. Sleeping pill about to kick in! Thanks Makitaman

Sorry for the typo should read 1873 Winchester . Yeah I always slug the barrels. Figured someone had a similar rifle setup with a load worked out. Like to use titegroup and a 225 grain bullet if possible. I have a uberti 5.5" barrel also hoping to be able to get load worked out to shoot decent in both. Thanks

Got a Winchester .45 Colt 1893 on the way and was hoping someone has a good load for it. I really wanted to shoot a 225gr but could sacrifice bullet weight some for the right load. Planning on purchasing a Uberti handgun in same caliber. Just a good starting load I know it'll have to be tweaked a little. I need the load to be able to take out a hog if necessary. Slinging it out of a rifle shouldn't be a problem but out of a 5.5" barrel on hand gun might require some give and take. I know some of you gotta have a load. Let me know asap thanks guys

Thanks Bob, yeah I've got everything for casting except 44-40 molds. I have also got some bullets ordered from about three different places. I plan on buying what I shoot, but wanted to have the gear if I had to cast. I'm hoping .429 will be good for both. Thanks

Thanks Bob. The Uberti slugged at .428 and the Winchester at. .4285. Hoping to get by accuracy wise with .429 really only want to cast one size for both, Winchester at .429 will be a little sloppy. Think maybe I can cast at .430 and size it down to .429? Trying to get all this figured out before I order the moulds and resize dies. Lee dies are reasonable those steel ones ain't cheap. I don't have anything for 44 caliber just .30 and 9mm.

Thanks Bob. Is their a personal choice of casting moulds you prefer. The Uberti slugged at .428 and the Winchester at. .4285. Hoping to get by accuracy wise with .429 really only want to cast one size for both, Winchester at .429 will be a little sloppy. Think maybe I can cast at .430 and size it down to .429? Trying to get all this figured out before I order the moulds and resize dies. Lee dies are reasonable those steel ones ain't cheap. I don't have anything for 44 caliber just .30 and 9mm.

Bought a few boxes of Magtech and it'll be my last. Ammo won't even chamber in the cylinder on the revolver I'm sure its going to fit the same in 73 Winchester not even going to try. Ammo fits too tight, brass has got to have a headspace issue. I got several pieces of brass on the way so I'll have everything to load my own by first of the year. I've got to figure out what dies to use. Any recommendations on die set would be greatly appreciated. I want a roll crimp and expander die, and of course the full sizing /decap die. Let me hear from y'all on the recommended die set. Thanks for all your help!

Thanks, yeah saw several doing it but only one mentions spraying a lite lube before sizing. Think we got squared away now.

Thanks guys, I know it was a bit confusing. Just trying to get familiar with this new process seems everyone has a different way and outcome. Main concern was resize after coating (not the brass). Probably buy a few from different sources before investing. Thanks

Not sure if it's been covered I'm sure it's been talked about but maybe not in detail. I understand the resize process and if I were to just stick to lube and resize no problem. I would like to try a few hundred rounds of PC bullets just to experiment with cleanness with any leading. A lot of mixed reviews out there. I understand no lube necessary with PC, but what if you resize after PC is it safe to do without lube? I've seen it done online after PC but yet to see at least a small amount of lube on the bullet. Stands to reason if the firearm has no leading or residue from PC nether should the sizing die. Probably a crazy question, wouldn't the resize die remove some PC and deposit in the die? Even if PC build up is extremely thin, it's got to leave traces. Lube build up has gotta be easier to clean out than PC. Bullet is matched to the rifling for best result but not always the case in resizing it depends on casting molds and PC build up. I guess question is more about, what are the steps in PC bullets if resizing is needed? Got to be a fine line here somewhere. Say bullet is .002 over sized just for example before or after PC then you resize? (Little extreme for most I hope) Just in case I lost a few trying to explain. Can't wait to see some of these replies. Thanks

Yeah that's the line. Thanks

Hey guys, quick question. Hornady Cowboy Handgun Ammunition 9075, 44-40 , 205 gr anyone use this factory ammo. I need it to shoot in both rifle and revolver. Then what about the brass is it worth fooling with to reload. Found a good price on it so thought about buy bulk of 500. I did pick up some magtech loaded ammo, those cases look like a challenge to reload. The crimp low down on the case it's their mark? Might be easier to remove the bullet dump powder run the brass back through sizer replace powder and try to save the bullet. Let me know on the hornady ammo it looks like they done it right. Thanks

Thanks Postal Bob. Tech support got back with me on the Winchester. Bore diameter of .4225 and groves .4285. Haven't heard anything from Back from Uberti so I might have to slug the barrel on that one. I would really like to get a load that works fair in both firearms. I'll check out the one you sent and the bullets you recommend. Got another question for you " why are their not any powder coated 44-40?" All the research I have done so far no one seems to coat them. Appreciate the information from your post thank you so much. That points me in the right direction.

OK guys I've got a Winchester 44/40 and a Taylor 44/40 on the way. Winchester is 24" barrel, Taylor's 5.5". I would like a load that I can be comfortable shooting from both fairly accurate (at least a starting point) I'm assuming both have the. 429 bore. I've ordered a couple boxes of different brand factory ammo, if satisfied with one of those I'll try and match up those specs if I have too. I know they'll both shoot different before someone throws that in there, I'm not trying to shoot flies at a 100 yards, I have firearms for that. If anyone can suggest a safe load data that they use, powder, bullet, brass , primers, would be greatly appreciated. This will save me some time, and materials. I would really like to load a powder coated bullet and get away from lubing, smoking and leading as much as possible. I know their some cowboy shooters out there with tons of information probably with the same setup. Thanks

Anyone ever used the SDB for 44-40? I have one I got for 9 mm but the 44-40 is not your average reload. I just noticed that they actually have one for 44-40 and I thought the SDB was for straight wall only. I plan on using my single stage press for reloading just curious about SDB set up for this caliber.

Cost is always a concern. I got several lever action including 38/357 , 44-40 is one I don't have. I agree with you after doing some figuring 44-40 would be the most costly ammo that I would load. Brass prices are terrible pricey. From all I have read plus the information I gotten here on the forum sounds like a pain to load. Why did they change the bore to .429 instead of the earlier models with .427? I've read some rifles still shoot great even with a couple thousands different, but it's got to have some effect on accuracy maybe even wobbly if to small. What I would really like to have is a older Winchester in 44/40 that's a shooter not a showcase piece. I'm open for any suggestions, just always wanted a 44-40 in a rifle and pistol. If you really love lever action and don't have one of those in your collection you don't have a complete collection. Thanks

Thanks guys really appreciate it. All my rounds will be just plinking ammo like for them to be accurate but not necessarily hot load. Thanks for the bore specs also. The cost was the main concern. Thanks

Hi everyone, recently joined up on your forum, I'm new here but not to reloading. I looking in to buying a 44-40 rifle and was curious about the cheapest some of you can reload this caliber . A Powder recommendation would be great. Got a general idea of cost as far as brass, and primers. Factory ammo is not cheap for the 44-40 anywhere from .76 to $1.25 a round. The powder is throwing me off on the cost not knowing what's best or recommended. Anyway if some of you have a idea or suggestions please let me know. I can always say no to buying this rifle.