XrayDoc88

I've been reading in the Lyman manual. It says to sort my brass by lot number. My current goal is to simply create some decent range ammo. I have a lot of my own once fired brass, but it is a mixture of many different brands. I don't have the boxes and no lot numbers. Should I try to sort the brass by headstamps? Or can I just label cartridges going forward so I'll know how many times I've reloaded that case, trimmed it, etc?

As I stated initially, I'm going to learn on 9mm. I've gradually been buying the essential tools. There are a few items I haven't purchased however. Is it common to have to trim 9mm cases? Should I get a case trimmer and deburring tool before I start? If yes, any recommendations on which ones? Also, should I buy any 9mm gauges? I already have a quality micrometer.

Ah, decisions, decisions! What have I got myself into?

OK, that makes sense. I guess if you're not trying to reach a certain power factor for competition, then any pistol velocity goal is somewhat arbitrary. Perhaps having a rifle velocity goal would make a little more sense if you wanted to be certain of terminal ballistics for hunting. Since I've never "worked up a load" (except in the bathroom ), how does it usually go without a chronograph? I know you start at the low end of charge. Assuming you're a good shooter, does the accuracy tend to gradually improve with extra powder grains and then get worse at some point? Or if you have great accuracy at the lowest powder charge, do you just stop? Exactly how do you typically determine that your load data is where you want to stop?

Thanks for the tip! Do others prefer using One-Shot over other brands of case lube?

Am I correct in assuming that talented reloaders NEED a chronograph to help optimize loads? I believe that you can determine accuracy results and avoid excessive pressure loads simply by visual observation. But without a chronograph, there's no way to know if you've reached an optimal velocity? I know they're expensive, but does anyone have or recommend the Labradar? I saw that they were on a modest sale currently. If not worth the money, what would you recommend?

I purchased carbide dies for my 9mm reloading. I understand that I don't need to use case lube. But would those with experience using carbide dies still recommend using case lube? Also, when reloading in general, do you just use case lube for the resizing step, not expanding, not bullet seating nor bullet crimping? P.S. I just started reading the Lyman 50th edition reloading handbook. It's getting me excited!

superdude, do you also like the RMR JHP or just the truncated cone bullets?

Again, thank you. That's very helpful. And RMR looks pretty good! I had not heard of them before. I was considering 124 gr HAP, but they're a lot more money!

Thanks so much for everyone's input. I already have learned a lot and feel more capable of making my first powder and bullet purchases without screwing up. superdude, I wil check all of your links. I love that kind of detail. We actually belong to two different ranges, one indoor and one outdoor. We shoot a lot. I'm certain I'll upgrade to a progressive once I fully understand what I'm doing. This may be an advanced question or silly concern. I've read that the most accurate reloads tend to occur when the powder level reaches the bullet base or is even slightly compressed by the bullet. Is this something that people even think about when reloading? Is that why the published COL will not be the same for all bullets? The charts seem to always list the same COL for the same bullet, even though the powders are all different. I would think that the powder volumes would vary greatly because of different compositions and different grain weights. Does anyone care if their case is "topped off" with powder or do you just pay attention to your actual shooting results?

You're probably correct. But I can think up some really bizarre ones!

I"m sure you're correct about the frustration (slowness) of 9mm and a single stage press. When I first started lurking on some reloading forums, the majority highly recommended learning on a single stage press. So, after much personal torment, I followed their advice and gave up my plans of buying a Dillon 650XL. I think I'll probably buy a progressive press in the future however.

Great explanation. Thanks. So ideally should a powder be chosen to match barrel length? Is there any way to actually do this? My main concealed pocket carry gun has a 3.1" barrel. Do I need a faster burning powder so that unburnt powder doesn't exit the muzzle? Or will the slowest burning powder still be consumed before exiting a short barrel? I found this relative burn rate chart in a Hodgdon manual. It actually lists CFE Pistol as burning slower than WSR.

MemphisMechanic, oh my gosh! Is that your personal research above for that many different bullets in 9mm? Your suggestion is very interesting. I never considered trying to match "feel" with completely different bullet weights and velocities. I have no idea what kind of powder is in an HST round, so maybe my approach was silly. Same bullet weight and type, with different powder must recoil differently anyway. I'm not certain if the top line would definitely be cheaper however. I haven't bought any bullets or powder yet. My plan to purchase CFE Pistol powder was simply based on browsing reloading forums and seeing many reloaders who really liked using that powder. I settled on Zero bullets because of the similar construction and weight and their lower price to Hornady XTP bullets. (I don't think you can buy Federal HST bullets.)

No, I've never reloaded any pistol or rifle ammo ever. I reloaded some shotgun shells with my grandpa as a kid, but I'm old now. Let me clarify my wish to start reloading. I did think a lot about the financial sense or lack of sense for reloading 9mm. I buy 1000 rounds at a time and I really don't expect to save much money. It's also not critical that my reloaded ammo "feels" exactly like my carry ammo. I just thought it was a nice goal. I assumed that using similar weight and similar construction bullets would help. Plus, when the zombie apocalypse begins, I'd rather have lots of 147gr ammo available, reloaded or store bought. My main reasons for starting to reload are: to develop a potentially valuable skill when the country collapses under liberal rule; to start a new hobby as I approach retirement; to reuse brass (I hate just throwing it away); and possibly to even learn how to develop higher accuracy rifle loads for long range shooting. I've already purchased a single stage press and some 9mm dies, so I'm committed to at least start learning with 9mm reloads.

I'll start with one question, see how it goes, and then work up! My wife and I carry Federal 9mm 147gr HST for self defense. We shoot a lot of 9mm and I want to start reloading target rounds that will feel similar to our chosen carry ammo. My current plan is to use range brass, Hodgdon CFE Pistol powder, CCI 500 primers and Zero 147gr JHP bullets. I've been unable to find a load data chart that specifies the Zero 147gr JHP bullet however. Is it OK to use the attached data from Hodgdon that describes another 147gr JHP bullet instead? I would assume that the two bullets will not have the exact same length and this might affect pressures, but I don't know how else to proceed.

I've decided to start reloading, and I've got some questions. I'm going to start with 9mm since that is the caliber that my wife and I shoot the most. I'm hoping this forum has some real experts that can answer my technical concerns. I'll post my questions in the 9mm reloading section. See you there!