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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Hihellosup's Achievements

Looks for Range

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  1. I was about to comment about turning off the stabilization of your camera because it is clearly not following your true head movements, but god damn does it look good once you get used to it
  2. Things that actually make divisions feel different off the top of my head: Irons vs dots Power factor Capacity Goofy ass race guns with comps and frame mounted dots. Giving a f*#k about trigger pull weight, pistol weight, stippling, etc is ridiculous. You aren't held back by the amount of money you can invest in your pistol. That stuff only matters at the absolute top level, where eeking out every tiny advantage is critical, and everyone is dumping money into their guns anyway. This entire idea that we should have divisions based on "someone can buy a more expensive pistol than me!" is insane. Divisions should exist for different play-styles (it's a game), not to put poor people in one category, people who can afford slightly more expensive guns in another, and then people who can afford very expensive guns in open.
  3. The hammer absolutely does matter, even on a pistol. Simple experiment - take a hammer fired pistol, hammer down. Run the slide, which cocks the hammer. Do it again now that the hammer is cocked - it will be MUCH easier. Changing the hammer spring in my CZ changed how it feels to cock it. I can't tell you how noticable in feel it is in a pcc with a hiperfire trigger, but I can tell you that in my ar-15, I swapped out my Ruger 2 stage trigger for a Rise Armament 535 drop in trigger, and the gun wouldn't cycle properly anymore, which was due to the BCG velocity changing. The velocity change was caused by the new trigger requiring a different amount of force to reset the hammer. I had to re-adjust the gas system. My point is that changing the hammer spring weight does affect the bolt cycle. The bolt has to overcome the weight of the buffer spring, as well as the hammer spring when it cycles.
  4. I have an eye dominance/focusing issue in my right eye - it's like my right eye is constantly focusing in and out the way a camera auto focuses if I keep both eyes open and try to align iron sights/reticles. Basically makes it impossible to focus on precise shots with both eyes open, so I close my left eye when I shoot magnified optics as well. However, I shoot red dot stuff both eyes open 99% of the time, and close my left eye for difficult shots. The target starts doubling for me otherwise! It's true though, it took me a while to stop closing my left eye all the time. I keep my optic all the way back.
  5. Moving your zero closer does surprisingly little for mitigating holdover, while also introducing holdunder for targets further than your zero. You may have a tolerance for trajectory over the top of your dot, but I zero for the furthest distance I will shoot, and get used to the holdover that is going to be present anyway. Personally I don't ever want to think about holding under a target. The exception is if I need a sharper trajectory to reach further targets. In PCC, we're talking like 75+ yards (depending on bullet weight/velocity) for that. 9mm loaded to 125pf (just picking the lowest you'd ever load) with an optic that is ~2.6 inches over bore can reach about 50 yards or so without the trajectory traveling above the dot, before it begins to drop. I'd keep your zeros the same unless you're zeroing your primary optic past that range. The extra optic is for leans. TLDR; zero optics at the furthest distance you will shoot, zero them the same, learn your holdover. Doesn't apply for matches beyond 75 yards.
  6. Using an eotech, this is my experience: If you shoot both eyes open, the further back the sight is, the more space you have for your dot to exist. This is because the viewing area is larger. You can see the dot sooner when mounting the gun, and an easier time tracking it in your peripherals during transitions. The "downside" is you have more space that neither eye can see from your barrel/handguard/sight housing blocking your field of view. This is below your sightline though, so it's up to you whether you care about that. Moving the optic forward reduces how much of your handguard/barrel/sight blocks your vision, at the cost of having less space for your dot to exist in your field of view. Unless you have something going on like your charging handle hand slamming your optic mount, or your glass is getting smoked, shoot both eyes open and mount it as far back as you can without it hitting your face. If you shoot 1 eye open, mount it as far forward as you can, because the optic housing blocks more field of view the closer it is to your eye, now that you don't have your other eye granting you vision past it.
  7. If your wrist is comfortable, then you don't need a longer LOP. That's really all it's for - it just changes your wrist angle. A shorter gun swings faster, so I'd say run as short a stock as you can comfortably grip the gun. On the opposite side of that, some people feel that a longer stock reduces dot bounce, and more importantly balances the gun better. Pick whichever you value, but I feel that transition speed is more important. You can also replace the pistol grip with one that has a more vertical angle to make shorter LOP's more comfortable. A2 angle grips almost force you to run a longer LOP than I'd say you need.
  8. I have walker razor slims, but they will get in the way unless I do the following: Pull the ear muffs UP so that the bottom of the ear muffs are as high as they can be. Roll the headband forward towards the front of my head, which changes the angle of the bottom of the ear muffs, in turn providing more clearance. You could also roll it backwards but it will probably fall off your head. That usually is enough for me, but you can also rotate your face inwards towards the gun, which will bring your ear further away from the stock. Lastly, you can buy an expensive stock like XLR's which has a small cheek riser, and a large gap between the buffer tube and the butt of the stock which leaves tons of room for ear muffs. My recommendation is to stick to the first 2 things I mentioned, and eventually you will learn how to get a cheek weld without too much interference. Rotating your face inward is a last resort because it will cause you to look through the edge of your glasses which is not a good place to be. Keeping your face as flat to the target as you can will also give you better vision of a stage.
  9. Am I going to blow my dumbass up if I take the tungsten deadblow weight out of the bolt? I know you can have potentially serious issues with blowback guns if the reciprocating mass is too light. I'd be shooting 130pf ammo I weighed out the 3 main components: Bolt without recoil assembly or deadblow weight: 11.9oz or 336g Recoil assembly: 3.1oz or 89g Deadblow weight: 9.5oz or 268g So the combined weight of the bolt and recoil assembly is 15oz with no deadblow weight in. It's technically a little lower because the polymer guide rod isn't reciprocating
  10. Ah, thank you. I know coated are common here but I was unsure when no one else mentioned it. I'm in for a few then! Coincidentally, there is a new video up on Military Arms Channel where he has horrible feeding problems in a new Stribog PCC using federal syntech PCC ammo. In his update video, he speculated the same as the other poster - that the straight walled magazine didn't like the polymer on polymer friction.
  11. So any coated bullets are a no-go for these magazines? I'm specifically shooting Brazos 147's, which are a "hi-tek gold" coating. OEM Glock 33rd + Taran base pads pay for themselves (eventually) if I can shoot cheaper coated bullets.
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