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Jschonhaut

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Everything posted by Jschonhaut

  1. Well that settles it... Trigger return spring just popped - out of nowhere I might add. Means time to order some parts. Got a new TRS, titan hammer, and extreme sear. We'll see how it goes. Haven't returned the bolo yet, so timing must be on my side I guess.
  2. Yeah I would... but... mine came with the 2 piece sear originally. So no one piece sear to revert back to unfortunately. Eventually I'll get the extreme sear when the unica sear craps out or next round of parts and pieces... whatever comes first. The rest is just experimenting - like you said.
  3. All right so... update Dropped in the new extreme disconnector. It works ALMOST perfectly. With the stock hammer I've got full functionality in double action and drum half cock. The single action breaks and resets. However on a SUPER slow single action pull (so slow I have to use a second finger to support it) I am getting a drop back into a double action pull. Will this ever occur in actual use? No probably not. So I think I can overlook it as long as continued use does not exacerbate the problem. As long as it doesn't get more severe than that I'm all right. With the unica hammer the single action drops back into double on almost every pull. So think I'm retiring that hammer for the time being. A user, haiedras, pointed out a few posts earlier that the unica sear can wear prematurely on the tail and can cause this to happen. Upon further inspection I believe that is what is happening as I can see bare metal on the underside of the sear tail. So... unica sear is what is causing this issue I believe. So what now? I am going to keep using the stock hammer with the unica sear as-is for the time being. I'll be returning the new unica sear and bolo unused unopened. Eventually I expect the issue with the unica sear to worsen so the drop from single to double action becomes more frequent even with the stock hammer. At that point I'll likely get myself an extreme sear instead. And from there I'll eventually get the titan hammer and bolo to complement it. Thanks for all your help everyone. Appreciate the support and advice.
  4. Had to do over again... hindsight is always 20/20. I will eventually try the titan I'm sure. But that'll be another $200 investment between the hammer the sear and the bolo... plus shipping. Rather space that expense out a bit if I can. But I'm one of those that likes to tinker so it'll be a matter of time before I try it I'm sure. I bought the unica stuff because it was supposed to be a drop in part that required little to no fitting from what I had initially read. Well, we all know how that turned out... When i had the unica working I was really happy with it. Take the 18lb plunger spring for example. When I was using that with the stock hammer I was getting light strikes. But switched to the unica and I was even able to go down from a 14 to a 13 hammer spring and it was working great with the 18 lb plunger. And the reset is only 1 or 2 millimeters. So the hammer does make a difference. But at this point I'm just looking to get my gun working as cheaply as possible. I'm hoping I can just use the new disconnector with the stock hammer. And if that works all right I may try it with the unica as well. But I'm worried I'm going to put it in there and one of my old problems will resurface - either the single action won't reset or the hammer will drop into a double action pull or... something else will happen. That's the only reason I'd try using the bolo with the unica. If the stock disco doesn't work right with either hammer then I'm out $20 for the disco and I've got to roll the dice on fitting the bolo to the unica. And if that doesn't work... Well... Titan and new sear?... send it to PD?... I don't know. Hopefully it doesn't come to that.
  5. Well... I've got an extreme disco, a bolo, and a new unica sear on order. I'm going to try the disco with the stock hammer first. I'll just return the bolo and sear if it's working all right and use the stock hammer. If I end up using the unica hammer I need the new sear because I fitted the sear to the safety with the stock hammer originally and the unica doesn't work quite right with the safety anymore (rookie mistake). I'm tempted to try the bolo with the unica but... I'll see if it works with the stock disco first. Go from there. I'll report back soon as it arrives and I try that disco.
  6. That sounds a lot like one of the problems I was running into where on a slow trigger pull on single action the hammer would fall back into a double action pull. That's why I filed the 45 degree angle into my disco wing. I'm going to link a few images of my sear. Do any of these images show the sear losing the edge you're talking about? Sear 1 Sear 2 Sear 3
  7. Your guess is as good as mine with why the trigger wouldn't reset. Single action would drop. I'd rack the slide and the trigger would just hang back not click back into place. No overtravel screw at the time. If memory serves I was using the stock hammer at the time. 14lb hammer spring. I don't remember what else was in there at the time. Probably the stock plunger spring, reduced power sear and trigger. It was a few weeks ago. That wasn't a terrible fix tho. Few minutes with a file and it was working. My gun is quirkier than most I believe. Nothing seems to work quite the way it was supposed to. Take the safety for example. The pin in the ambi safety is supposed to pop out with a 16th punch. Nope. Ended up having to dremel it off after an allen key I was using got stuck in there. The pin was not only way smaller than a 16th punch but curved and warped and not a uniform thickness throughout. Been a bit of a nightmare honestly. This whole thing. It may come down to replacing the sear and the hammer. Haven't ruled that out with the Titan hammer yet. I'm sure the unica sear and titan won't play nice either.
  8. That's what I'm worried about - with that soft metal underneath I'm thinking that that angle I put in the disconnector created an issue where the part became weak and wore down the surfaces I fitted. I guess it doesn't matter if it's the stock disconnector or the extreme one either. I had read the hammer hooks and whatnot were surface hardened like that but wasn't aware the disconnector was too. In any case my understanding is that the BOLO would not have that same issue as it is hard metal throughout. Correct? And I get that the bolo wasn't intended for the unica parts but fitting the disconnector to fix my issues wasn't a piece of cake either. Once fitted I'm thinking the bolo would not have the same issue of wear on the fitted surfaces. Looking through the forum people gave managed to use the bolo with the unica parts. So it's feasible. A headache probably, but so was fitting the stock disconnector.
  9. The disco that comes with the stock hammer has a marking, 802 and then 1 a bit lower. The one that comes with the unica hammer is 802 and a 3 a bit lower. They look nearly identical. My bet is the unica comes with the extreme disconnector. The over travel screw taken all the way out. I actually only introduced the screw about a week ago. Mine was missing from factory - weird - but I had an old grub screw that fit - lucky. A few pics of the trigger bar. Trigger Bar 1 Trigger bar 2 Trigger bar 3 So considering the bolo not being designed for the unica better solution will probably be to get either a stock disco or an extreme disco I guess. I'm fine with that. My only concern is fitment and wear on the parts that need fitting over time. If I put a new disconnector in and I have to fit it in order for the timing of the trigger to work right should I dry fire much more sparingly for example, or expect that I am going to have to fit a new disconnector every few thousand rounds... or is there a better way?
  10. All right... parts list Unica heavy hammer (problems occur with stock hammer, as well) Unica one piece sear Unica firing pin PD firing pin spring PD sear spring PD trigger spring Henning 18 plunger, but use the stock plunger as well in testing - both were working fine PD hammer spring (I have 10, 12 , 13, 14 - 14 and 13 were working without issue... 12 was iffy firing factory ammo. 10 doesn't work at all with factory ammo - no surprise there. Note - I did have to cut a coil or so off the 12 and 14 to get them to fit in my gun with the Unica hammer - otherwise the hammer wouldn't go far back enough to lock for single action with the Unica hammer. Tested with Unica Hammer and Stock hammer. The same issues are occurring. In fitting the 45 degree angle on the disconnector, I fudged it the first time. So in testing these hammers I have to switch the disconnector between them. So it's the same disconnector I'm working with. It appears that I have a Gen 1 Trigger bar. Everything polished to mirror finish. Trigger bar, plunger bar, top of plunger, underside of sear cage, parts inside that rub against them all, struts on either hammer, pins for hammer, sear, the hole the hammer spring sits in, etc...
  11. Hi all. I would appreciate some insight into my most current problem with my Tanfoglio Stock II. I've been working on this thing for about a month now trying to get it to work reliably in double and single action. And every time I think I have it sorted out a new problem emerges. I'll spare you EVERY detail, but some relevant background follows. After my first round of polishing the single action would not reset. I am using the stock disconnector. I filed down the material on the disconnector on it until it did (if it was a bolo it would be angle one I guess I'd call it). Got that fixed. A few hundred rounds in after that a new problem emerged where a slow trigger press in single action would drop the hammer back into a double action pull. This one took a lot of research to sort out how to fix it, but I eventually found a forum where CZ and Tanfos that were running into this issue could fix it by filing the wing of the disconnector into a 45 degree angle rather than a 90 degree angle. It worked. And has been working fine for about 500 rounds at least... ... Until, that is, I got back from the range the other day, broke down the pistol only to do a basic cleaning. Bore snake out the barrel, gun scrubber, towel off the residued areas, lube, oil, etc - nothing major. Put it back together. And now the hammer is dropping early in double action. Which is the possible problem that can emerge from filing that disconnector wing at the 45 degree angle that I mentioned I had to do earlier. FYI - I had the 18lb trigger plunger spring in there (paired with the 14lb as well as the 13lb PD hammer spring). I know that can cause the issue where the hammer drops early, as well. I switched back to the stock plunger spring to test and it's the same problem. Hammer drops early - like it never gets past the half cock mark. Looking at the disconnector (I'll post some pictures), the 45 degree angle I remember filing into it was not as severe as it looks to be now. There are also wear marks on the underside of the disconnector which I did not put in there. Good shot of the 45 degree angle Good shot of the wear *Couldn't post the actual images into the post - not sure why - but linked to a flickr account where I uploaded them* It seems to have worn very quickly and severely after those last 500 live rounds or so - not to mention I dry fire A LOT. Excessively even. And I guess that is where I struggle with what I should do now. Pretty confident I need a new disconnector. My question is ... WHY is this happening where I will fix something, function test it, and it will be 100% working and then a few hundred live rounds (probably a few thousand dry clicks to every hundred rounds) and a new problem emerges and in fixing that problem another problem can emerge as a result of the fix? Is excessive dry fire the cause of the wear? Is it that the stock disconnector is made of a material that once it is modified, its integrity is weakened and can wear faster? Basically... how can it be that I get everything working 100% and then something as insignificant as breaking the gun down to clean it can then just throw everything out of whack again? I'm considering getting a bolo instead of another stock disconnector. Would that be less prone to wear? Less finicky once it is fitted? Open to any and all suggestions. Thank you.
  12. Thanks for the tip! I'll swap back to the regular extractor spring and get the patriot defense firing pin spring next time I place an order.
  13. All right... so update. On a lark I relubricated everything... slide, springs, etc. Racked the slide like 30 times. And seems to be working now. I reintroduced the other parts, as well - extra power extractor, unica firing pin and the firing pin spring that came with the recoil spring, and the problem came back again. Racked the slide another 30 times or so and working again. Think everything needs a polish and some break in. Thanks for all the help.
  14. I have tried it from back of slide, front of slide, have tried using the slide release... same result every time. Even chambering without the magazine - just dropping the bullet into the chamber and closing the slide on it (at speed, as well as closing it slowly). Same thing. Have not run it in live fire - honestly I would be afraid to try that. I can see the back of the bullet when the chamber closes so I don't know what that would do if the bullet was fired. Probably nothing good I would imagine. It's also like the bullet is misaligned in there or something? I don't know. I would think there was something wrong with the feed ramp or the breech face if the problem didn't go away with the factory spring. I took out all the other parts I already dropped in, too - just to rule out any other variables. (I'd only gotten as far as the firing pin, firing pin spring, and extractor spring) so everything is back to stock right now. Just introducing the recoil spring recreates the issue.
  15. Hey thanks for chiming in. I must have watched your videos 3 times by now haha. Factory ammo (hoping to be able to fire factory ammo still when I finish with all my fiddling). Ammo is Winchester 115gr FMJ Took everything down again just now and bullets drop out the chamber just fine like they do in your video. Turning them... have to use two fingers to get them to turn, but they do turn fine. Not sure if I should be able to turn the bullet with just my thumb or not, but I can't.
  16. I guess that's possible... would the 9lb spring be too weak tho? I mean people use 8# even 6# springs in their stock 2s, right? I have only put about 100 rounds through the gun so far. Is it maybe not broken in enough yet or something? Maybe I need to polish the rails so the slide moves more freely? Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions here - just been lurking the forums, watching lots of YouTube videos. It's my first 9mm center fire. I've been shooting 22lr for the past 2 years.
  17. So... got a bunch of stuff from Ben Stoeger for my new Stock 2. Amongst which was a 9# wolff recoil spring. Got the standard full slide version. And when this recoil spring is in the gun the rounds won't go into battery. Slide just won't close completely. Switch back to the stock spring and closes up just fine. It's like 2 or 3 coils longer than the stock spring and my understanding is it's SUPPOSED to be that way(?). I'm tempted to cut it tho and see if that fixes the problem. Should I snip snip or try to send it back to Ben?
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