Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About bmudskipper

  • Rank
    Looks for Range
  • Birthday November 23

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    St Paul, MN
  • Interests
    Gunsmithing and USPSA
  • Real Name
    Ken Robinette

Recent Profile Visitors

58 profile views
  1. Here is a couple videos of the mag 23+1
  2. I had good luck with the +1 extra thin followers from Taran Tactical and a Grams 11 coil spring. Had to shorten the back of the follower to be 29.5mm to fit the p10 tubes. Then had to shorten the underside of the follower a bit. Then put a new side hole in the underside of the follower for the spring to attach to it. Did also tune the mag body by squeezing the neck / base of the tube transition area together a bit to get a better single file stack at the top to keep the top couple rounds more pointed up. I will also be filing the ribs inside the bottom of the tube a little to allow more room for bullets to stack down there. I have an easy .200" now to compress with 23 in the mag. First picture, I had to trim I little where the orange arrow is to center the follower on the spring. And once I did that then I drilled a second hole by the red arrow to connect the follower and spring. Second picture, I had to sand the bottom up a little but also by the back blue arrow I took material off until I was at 29.5 mm( orig 31.75mm). The red lines show the 29.5 mm dimension. Lastly, I bent the follow and the first couple coils to be pointing up in the front a bit more.
  3. Another way you could gain spring room but not cut the slide is to relieve the face of the yellow arrow on a mill. This will allow a longer guide rod also. That would gain you the extra room for the spring you want to use at full compression with slide back. The frame is stopping on the plastic stop at the red arrow so the yellow area is safe to cut since it takes only spring force. From the front of the gun, but shouldn't take too much as the barrel lockup is putting force from the slide stop engaging the barrel at lockup. Another route would be to drill out the slide more for a reverse tunnel plug similar to that on a 2011 medium slide build. Use the plug to move that counter bore forward but have a smaller hole for the guide rod to protrude through.
  4. Yes I remember the switch from factory ammo to my 135 pf 145gr loads and it was a similar step in the right direction to make an oversized tungsten guide rod. I'm going to add a couple more ounces of tungsten powder in the back strap to further deaden the recoil. I measured the depth of the counterbore on that spring tunnel to be .215" so I think the tunnel would be fine if you take off .100" and just check the slide distance to be the same with and without the recoil spring to see if you are coil binding. Trim off coils until good. There is plenty of frame rail left for the extra rearward travel. That tunnel is only to guide the spring / keep it centered. So .100" off won't change a thing, except more momentum to pick up the top round from the mag. I am experimenting with different cut down followers to see if I can get reliable feed of 23+1. Stroking the slide could help increase momentum picking up that top(tight) round. I only trust 22+1 starts right now. just ordered 2 Taran tactical sti/sv extra thin followers to modify for the p10 tubes. With an 11 cool grams spring.
  5. So last night after work I turned out a 2.8 oz guide rod from the tungsten. Turns pretty much like tough steel. I was at 650 rippums / feed per rev at I think .008" with a very positive rake carbide insert that has a huge .012" radius. The issue with this material is it creates a ton of heat at the tool edge so get a big rad and positive rake tool. Also get as much air pressure to the tool as you can. DOC was .02" (x3) radially and a .025" finish pass at the same feed/speed. I segmented the cuts in 1" sections working my way to the final .320" diameter to keep the workpiece rigid. Then sanded heavenly on the lathe to blend the intersections of the cuts with 1000grit paper. Followed by a fiber brush on a bench lathe until smooth and purrty. The slide proved to be a PITA though. Destroyed a .360" carbide bit but did the job. Work holding was not easy either for rigidity. Here are some illustrations to show the stuff. Edit: I shot this gun in a local indoor match last night and the guide rod changed the recoil impulse so much. This gun returned to POA so fast and it sped up follow up shots.
  6. To clarify, you started with the stock angle 45 deg (yellow line) and filed back the angled area by the red arrow to meet with the green arrow at 39deg from top behind in this image?
  7. If I'm understanding right, I did find your other tests on the trigger pull with the stock 45 connect and the modified 39 deg connect. So you essentially traded more travel for less force needed to set off the trigger? So the wall might have moved back a tiny amount but the break is much farther back? This of course does not change anything with reset, just lengthening the pull from wall to break. I might pick up another disconnect and ply with this idea. Since there is so much overtravel would you suppose if I translate the same 45 further back a couple thou then the wall would move back as well as the break? Maintaining the same trigger break weight. Then I could adjust cgw pre travel to just outside the reset. This stuff is fun. I like to tinker and am machinist by day.
  8. Looks good. I have a couple questions if you wouldn't mind. What #spring did you settle for? Wolff has them for .45 acp 12# and up. I shoot USPSA Carry Optics and reload 145rn bullets at 135 pf. Also have you found a way to tune out the over travel on the p10f as it has a bit more than desired. I would love to see a video of your new p10 setup.
  9. Thank you for the information. I just ordered a rod to turn down. For anyone looking to buy the Glock store guide rod, they are currently out of stock of the uncaptured gen 5 g17/34 tungsten rods. But they said they are back in production very soon. Hey earlan357 I did add weight to the frame under the back strap with a mixture of tungsten powder from golfworks and epoxy and smeared it in there. In case you want to add more weight down low.
  10. I have the new cut cgw striker in and can confirm the weight on the pull is lower and much smoother through the trigger pull itself. I used the striker spring that came with it also. I did have some light strikes on CCI sp primers but since switching to federal it has been lighting them off 100%. I would highly recommend the cgw new profile striker and spring kit to any competitors. THANK YOU SO MUCH EARLAN357 For all the development you did on the guide rod. Curious where did you buy your tungsten rod you plan to turn down from? I have been looking to make my own as well.
  11. I am interested in what you find out on that 3.7 oz tungsten guide rod in the p10f. I can easily turn it down where it is needed.
  • Create New...