Glockcomma

One thing that is kinda out there but could happen if You have changed or cut the recoil spring. If to weak slide speed can be so great that it bounces back before it can catch if to strong it may not go back for enough to catch.

+18 on SJC I've got a couple and their great, their is a lot more to building a major 9 Glock than throwing a few accessories on a stock gun. The 17 has the right slide weight.

I own the CCF open gun that was in the Jan./Feb. issue of Front Sight. I had a none frame related component malfunction at about 5,000 rounds up until that time the gun ran great. Very flat (at 49 ounces) very accurate and very reliable I'm still on My first shock buff I run only ISMI recoil springs in Glocks this gun likes a 13# minus a few coils. While it was at the smith I had John Nagel replace the CCF locking block with a stock Glock mine wasn't broken and the installation requires machining, will see how this turns out. I also have an SJC polymer open gun at 34 ounces it is really sweet also but I prefer the steel gun. I bought a nice 5" S_I (why don't we use all the letters when referring to this manufacture) open gun to shoot while My gun was in the shop, it's a great gun but I don't know what gun I'll end up with as My main match gun. The Glock is more comfortable to grip you don't have external safeties to mess with and I like how fast the trigger resets. And just because you use an aftermarket slide or a frame that adds weight, longer rails and has less flex doesn't mean your denying 1911 tendencies any more than if you shoot a linkless Briley you should run out and get a real Glock.

That website appears to be mostly rifle, the powder I'm looking for is for pistol.

That website appears to be mostly rifle, the powder I'm looking for is for pistol.

Thanks, But I'm experimenting with a 2011 and the way it's going I might have to change it to Stieye.

Can anybody help me with the correct name for a commercial powder that sounds close to Marsavent 248?

I have a Briley barrel in a Glock model 35 it shoot 3/4 inch groups at 25 yards and 2 inch groups at 50 yards. They are rifled by Ed Shilen, its very well finished and this one was fitted by Briley. I can't speak highly enough about that barrel.

I have read a lot about Recoil masters, it seems people either love them or hate them. I'd be willing to find out first hand what camp I'm in, do you know how much they weigh? I haven't figured out for sure why the alum. guide rod won't work in my gun but I'm almost positive that the spring is being pinched between the reverse plug and the rod. I tried it again tonight with some new parts I just received from Brownells. A new S_I plug that measured 10 thousandth smaller I.D. at the front than my old one and a new I.S.M.I. 10# spring(all the springs that I've tried have been new). And it bound up just like before, I just don't think the alum. is slick enough even lubed.

No I didn't color everything in that area just the head but I did do the head completely and no scrape marks at all. On my last post I wrote a long description on how with a new I.S.M.I. spring it would slip between the rod and plug and I would have to pull the spring down and install the plug and pin but with a Wolff spring which measures a few thousandths more I can just push the plug down with the spring installed. I deleted it because after writing it seemed irrelevant but now in retrospect I can see how the spring could get in the gap between the rod and plug and put on the brakes. I ordered a new reverse plug this morning just in case mine is worn the I.D. at the front of the plug is .350 and both rods are .325 I reversed the spring putting the open end next to the head(I was born at night Just not last night) greased up the rod real good and racked the slide a few times, then beat it off with a hammer, but I think this may be the source of the problem. I had a hard time finding a light guide rod and maybe there is a reason for that, I'm beginning to think that maybe aluminum might be to soft of a material for this application. When I pulled the guide rod out of the gun after reversing the spring I noticed for the first time some scraping in the anodizing on the bottom of the rod at the front. The end of the wire just happened to be at the bottom which probably compounded the problem a little.

Yes it works 100% with the steel rod and o% with the alum. I would be getting rid of about an ounce out front where this gun is a little heavy so it's not a huge deal. It's kinda become a science project at this point, it's an inquiring mind that wants to know what the hell is going on here. I'm replacing one part with another part that is exactly the same physically except that the shaft is aluminum and the take down hole is horizontal. The only reason I mention the take down hole is because to me it seems the part might be more prone to flexing up and down with the hole in that location, but after not seeing any of the Sharpie rubbed off and the extreme angle that the rod can obtain while in the reverse plug(much greater than it could ever get installed in gun)I'm thinking that is a non issue. I'm trying to give all you smart guy's and girl's with a lot more 1911 experience than I all the information I can to try to figure out this weird problem(as you can tell by my handle I've been residing in a world other than that of John Moses Browning).

Yes and it cycles just fine. I tried Howards suggestion of coating everything with a Sharpie and cycling the gun till it locks up, and was really surprised when I once again beat the slide off with a hammer and their wasn't a scratch on the blue coating. The guide rod is pretty loose in the reverse plug, out of the gun I can put the rod at a much greater angle in the plug than it could ever be in the gun. A little more back ground this is my second guide rod from Briley, the first one I ground on to replicate the angle on the back top of the head. I talked to Briley and they said to send it back so they could look at it and see why it didn't work, but they couldn't figure it out and sent me a new one. This one I've left alone so for but I think ultimately I will have to put that angle on it although left alone I'm able to rack it a couple more times before it locks up. I should just cut my loses leave the steel one in and go shoot, but at this point its become personal. I can't think of anything on a pistol that should be easier to install than a guide rod except maybe a magazine.

Thanks Howard, I'll give the common mans Dykem a try. The shaft is hard anodized black and is not showing any signs of rubbing the sharpie may not show up very well on the dark shaft but I'll give it a try. It's cool how somebody may see something more clearly from a thousand miles away than someone with the problem on the bench right in front of them. I guess their is no substitute for experience.

I have a mysterious problem with My S_I Competitor. With the solid steel guide rod that it came with it runs great, but I wanted to lighten the front end so I bought an aluminum guide rod from Briley. When I install the guide rod I can rack the slide about three times, each time I rack it it gets a little stiffer then gets to the point where it locks up tighter than a drum. When it locks up I have to beat it off the frame with a nylon hammer. The gun is a 9mm major with a Tru-bor barrel and comp., I've tried several springs all around 9#, I've tried it with and without a shock buff. The button measures within a thousandth or two on both rods, I replicated the angle at the top of the button where it rides against the link pin boss. The take down pin hole is vertical on the steel rod and horizontal on the aluminum one. I'm usually not this mechanically challenged on something seemingly so simple, but this one has me baffled.

Travis -- the site "www.glockmeister.com" sells slides and uppers, and the other online Glock parts/custom stores might as well. Dunno. Kinda pricey though: $415 for a G35 upper....I've been half-tempted to try a G22 upper if I can find one cheap enough.