Intheshaw1

How heavy is it? I have a jentra gen 5 specific on for my 34 but it's made for a 17 as well. I think it's right at 3 oz or so. He said he's considering making a longer one for a 34 as well if there was enough demand.

I experimented with tracking software that let you customize stages and use a projector. It was great when it worked but the original developer bailed halfway through and there was a lot of issues. But I was trying to use it with a camera and laser and originally designed. You could probably set it up for regular dry fire just fine. But I can't remember the name of it off hand it I'm sure you could find it via Google.

I picked up primers at Cabela's for $65/k a month or so ago. But if you're tracking prices online, it's all ticking up for primers while ammo is falling. Brownells did have a special today for 2k of primers for $200 but it came with a Brownells $75 gift card. That's the best online price I've seen in a while. Most now are 75 or 85/k

Yeah, I think it's the only one that looks to actually be held this year. Most have been cancelled but the September match did have people registered but it double booked with SC and got the boot. I was going to try to set up a single bay mini match but the rules folks at the club sort of came down on that. Hopefully shotgun ammo is available next year so I can at least shoot some 3gun. Otherwise I'll likely get a PCC to quench my rifle thirst.

We have a match scheduled in a week that looks mostly full. I'd go but I'm a big bow hunter so that's where I'll be. Honestly, after shooting USPSA all year and carry optics specific, I don't know if I'll bother with 3gun. Matches are shorter, set up and tear down is shorter, and reset is usually easier and faster. Personally, I've been enjoying getting done shooting around 2 vs 5 or 6.

That's pretty good. There were some that sat on the classifieds here for a while that were tempting but I had just changed to a dot and wanted to commit for an entire season.

Hey, if the price is right the price is right. I was really close to buying a TSO this past year and opted for a dot instead but I'd I came across one at a price too good to pass up I'd pick one up.

So personally, I did the dot vs irons myself at the GSSF match for the 5 to Glock. For those not familiar, it's 5 targets distanced evenly from 5 to 25 yards and shoot 3 strings. I took my CO 34 with dot and Timney trigger vs my 17 with irons and 25 cent trigger. Not the exact gun but pretty close. What I found personally, was that my irons times were about a second slower per string and accuracy tended to drop as well. I shot exclusively red dot this year and irons for the past 10. What I've seen personally is my accuracy and speed is much better with a dot. I've also seen the same things with all the shooters I shoot with who moved to a dot.

I'd probably just go to the oldest post in each section and start reading there. I'm likely to do the same since I've only started seriously shooting a couple years ago.

Cover is a must. I 3d printed a cover and I still will stick to things but it's no longer impossible to break free. Mags don't seem to fall of either but it's just a thin layer of plastic over the magnet.

I've been on the waiting list for a blue label 48 MOS and plan to run it occasionally in CO. But I wouldn't run my carry gun, I'd look to have 2.

I just buy MOS for all the glocks I can now even if I don't plan on adding a dot to them any time soon. I like having future options open to me and to Mill a slide is pretty much the same cost as the price difference to MOS, the MOS may even be cheaper.

I got a jentra gen 5 tungsten guide rod for my 34 and a dot connector with the Timney trigger. Breaks at a crisp 3 lbs. May mess around with springs in the off-season but right now it just works and I like the reliability.

Naw, the franchi is the poor man's M2, there is a lot more parts related and interchangeable and it's made in Italy as well. I was actually trying to buy the stoeger a few years ago when I got into 3gun but they were all sold out so I 'settled' for the franchi and it's a much nicer gun and for about $800 I was set up with a longer tube and some 3gun specific parts. so, your stoeger is a poor man's franchi lol. Benelli>franchi>stoeger

M2 still dominates here. I'm running a poor man's M2 with my franchi affinity 3.

I ended up joining the Anderson Insider. They have some good videos but nothing earth shatteringly amazing. I have my first monthly call with him later this week which is the real reason to join it.

Dang man, what are you trying to sell....

I was recommended the Otto's by a local guy while we ROd and event. He works in a cabinet shop and wears them 8-10 hours a day, every day and loves them. He said they are the most comfortable and have solid hearing protection. Now that's not an indoor range but it's working with loud machines inside. I will say that even with muffs on I will double plug indoors as it's a lot louder. But our local indoor range is very small so I tend to avoid it.

It's not so much outmuscling the gun as increasing your overall grip strength to reduce the need to actively crush it. Cha Lee had a great series of posts about this a few months back. Essentially let's say the gun requires 100 lbs of grip force to reliably control. If your max grip strength is 120 lbs of force you really have to crush your grip to achieve 100 lbs of grip force, or 90% of total grip strength, which can impact your trigger pull. Whereas if your max is 180 lbs, you are only using 60% and can have a more relaxed grip but still apply the same amount of pressure. These are obviously made up numbers but the concept is what matters. Improving your overall grip strength is likely only going to help and almost never hurt your shooting. And by increasing your grip strength you can relax your grip and improve trigger control with the relaxed grip. This also assumes all other things are equal and that you already have the fundamentals of grip down. And you can get a grip trainer and throw it in your car to use during your drive to work and you're not giving up any of your normal training time. Or you can lift weights as @gargoil66said as it helps grip faster and improves overall health and athletic ability.

I just got a dot for my Buckmark so now I expect USPSA to allow it for carry optics, I'm even willing to add a light to the barrel.....

I love mine as well for my gen5 34, I got it on the release date and it's what kept me with glocks. The local production GM has an old 17 with 250k rounds on it that is pretty much all stock. He's been contemplating changing over to CZ for competing but after trying the Timney it's made the decision even harder for him and he said he actually prefers the Timney Glock trigger over the CZ he's been running for the past 3 months. Honestly, the new Timney trigger is the best thing that's happened to Glock. I was talking with the GSSF guys that were here a couple weeks ago and asked if Glock was ever planning to make a better competition gun like Sig has but it sounds like there is no interest in doing so.

Sure thing. I also bought some of the other shapes to pack around the cubes in the grip cavity to get the weight up.

https://www.maximum-velocity.com/product/tungsten-cubes/ This is where I got my tungsten stuff from but I bought enough to do a couple of glocks I have. For $20 you can get 4 oz of tungsten. They also sell on eBay if you look around. I added the weight after tuning recoil. It's not adding a ton of weight, just enough to help stabilize for longer shots while still allowing fast transitions.

I'd have to weigh it but I believe so. Tungsten is a lot heavier than brass, I got 1.5 oz in my large backstrap alone and the rest in the grip cavity. I bought solid pieces of tungsten, cubes and balls and packed it in. It's not that hard to add it. My jentra tungsten gen 5 guide rod added 3 oz to the front.

As an fyi, I got some small tungsten disks and putty and added it to only my backstrap and it added 1.5 oz. This isn't permanent as it can be pulled out. I laid down a thin layer of putty then pressed in the disks and repeated again. I think most spots are 2 layers with some right down the middle have a 3rd layer. Just don't fill it too full or use too much putty or it will press out. You could epoxy it in as well since backstrap are cheap but obviously you need to be using a backstrap to make this work.