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adam500

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  1. I hear they shoot great. I cannot justify it myself.
  2. I would have bought the STI grip that was already undercut and stippled. It was the most work of the entire thing. I also bought the cheapest based on color since I was going to coat it afterwards. Coating them is a PITA since they cannot go over 150 degrees. So get the color you want and the stippling already done :). Worth the price difference.
  3. Just go do it. Dont set a time frame and dont be afraid to stop and take a step back if something doesn't seem right. If you don't have calipers and all the 1911/2011 specs please get familiar before you start. Files do remove lots of metal so go slow! Thanks, Adam
  4. Yeah I am very surprised, I have not had any malfunctions at all. I didnt use any tools or jigs. This was not an 80% lower but a completed lower. I already had nice hand files and lapping compound to fit the required pieces. Having the jigs for cutting the lugs on the barrel, frame rails, and FCG would have been nice but you can do it all without it. Lots of time and marking fluid with very small changes. I took my time on this and spend an hour here and there over a year doing it.
  5. I was concerned about this too but I ended up with .044 which is good for me.
  6. Firstly, thanks!. Secondly, The black color is https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/E-110Q/midnight/ and the blue is https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/H-220Q/ridgeway-blue/ they are both considered baked on coatings. Thirdly, the trigger is right around 3.5lb's I didn't get it super light basically just polished the FCG parts. Nice crisp break.
  7. Look at these videos. He does a great job and I couldn't have done it without his guidance.
  8. Little over $1200 total with the cerakote job.
  9. I did have a few issues and they seem to be related. When I was working on the slide to frame fit there was a tool mark in the CK frame on the right side where it seemed the CNC machine missed a pass. This ended up being a real PITA to file down by hand. It also took awhile to find exactly where it was as it was very small. I kept measuring with calipers and the measurements had the .001 clearance I was shooting for but would not go together. Due to this I ended up taking slightly too much off the bottom of the slide but the fit is still very tight. The other issue is that due to the tolerance stacking difference from the slide and frame manufacture and having to take a bit off the slide as mentioned above I had to use a #1 link on the barrel. To get the lockup right. This took awhile to figure out but after hours of research I figured it out and was able to get it going again. Outside of that it went very smooth. You will notice I went with a bushing barrel. I did this so I could shoot IDPA with 5" barrel.
  10. Below is the build list. Part Name Part Number Link Ejector 1911-FR-EJT-9-SS https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-FR-EJT-9-SS Beavertail GS 1911-FR-GS-C-KC https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-FR-GS-C-KC Hammer Strut 1911-FR-HS-P https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-FR-HS-P Hammer Set CS0208 https://cylinder-slide.com/Item/CS0208 Sear Spring 1911-FR-SRSPR https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-FR-SRSPR Guide Rod Plug 026-1067 https://dawsonprecision.com/recoil-spring-plug-for-bushing-barrel-1911-with-guide-rod-stainless-by-dawson-precision/ Slide Stop 1911-FR-SS-9-S-T https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-FR-SS-9-S-T Firing Pin 1911-SL-FP-9-80-C https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-SL-FP-9-80-C Guide Rod 026-1054 https://dawsonprecision.com/guiderod-1911-5-bushing-barrel-tool-less-by-dawson-precision/ Extractor 1911-SL-EXT-9-C https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1911-SL-EXT-9-C Recoil/Fireing Pin Spring 10lb 523-1172 https://dawsonprecision.com/recoil-firing-pin-springs-1911-government-size-by-wolff/ Mainspring 17lb / Hammer spring 523-1007 https://dawsonprecision.com/mainspring-1911-2011-hicap-by-wolff/ Firing Pin Stop 520-38402-00 https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/520-38402-00 Cylinder/Slide Pins 037-039 https://dawsonprecision.com/pin-sets-1911-2011-by-dawson-precision/ Ambi Saftey 11322 http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/egw-hd-ambi-thumb-safety-machined-from-barstock-ss/ Barrel BA-P-1911-9-5-NR https://www.tr-enabling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BA-P-1911-9-5-NR Slide with sights RIA FS 9mm https://advancedtactical.com/products/featured/rock-island-armory-slides-no-logo CK Arms Frame CK-CLRF http://www.ckarms.com/store/frames/60-ck-arms-widebody-frame.html Grip Screws 026-1072 https://dawsonprecision.com/2011-grip-kit-for-sti-2011-by-dawson-precision/ Trigger 519-1013 https://dawsonprecision.com/trigger-sti-2011-hicap-polymer-long-curve-by-sti/ Mag release 013-014 https://dawsonprecision.com/mag-releases-sti-2011-by-dawson-precision/# Grip 519-1577 https://dawsonprecision.com/grips-sti-2011-hicap-polymer-by-sti/ Mag Well PG200 https://www.pistolgear.com/proddetail.php?prod=PG200
  11. Sure. I'll post the build list shortly. I did all the work myself outside of the cerakote.
  12. Just finished a budget 2011 build. I have always enjoyed 1911's and wanted a 2011 but couldn't justify the prices. Ended up deciding to build one. It was a fun project to work on didn't go with any fancy bells or whistles. Put about 1000 rounds through it without any issues. If you are on the fence do it!
  13. I got this 2 weeks back. Shot it at a local IDPA match without any issues. I would like to replace the rear sight with 10-8 or something but the sight hight is proprietary. Looks like I will have to change front and back.
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