philmadxx

First off, that paint job is awesome!! I love the factory trigger in my ‘5 so I don’t think I’m changing it anytime soon. Do you find that the new trigger with more take up is “squishier”? That’s been my experience with my CZ pistols. In fact I’m working on getting a more defined “wall” on a my CZ TSO - crazy low trigger pull, just under 2lbs, but I feel like I don’t get enough of a positive reset. I like the trigger to push back after firing. Not sure this related to the wall or not. Regardless, keep us posted on how you like it in matches. Good luck

Memhis Mechanic, a member here, did both of my Czechmate barrels and did a great job. I sent several profiles of bullets seated to the correct OAL so he could verify his work - no powder or primer. The difference in profiles can be pretty dramatic.

I just ordered an Ultralight upper (5.5" barrel) for my JP5, no delivery date yet. I'll let you know when I get it. I am getting a 90 with it and already have a 100.

I used to keep up on the latest and greatest recoil systems, buffers, etc. The main reason I went with the GMR originally is that it is completely reliable, when I pull the trigger, it goes bang - every time. I shoot competitions and one misfire can kill the match, I can screw up and that's on me, but I want the gun to be bulletproof. The GMR needs no tuning to run all day, every day. JP has done the tweaking and tuning for you. I'll admit I haven't kept up with the latest and greatest buffers, bolts, hydraulics, pneumatics, etc. I'm sure many of those systems are well engineered, but are they engineered as a complete unit? There are lots of variances and tolerances with parts that these systems need to work with, far too many for any engineer to take into account. JP does the whole deal and it works. I am not a JP employee, I just love their stuff. (Just 0rdered the Ultralight upper for my JP-5). If you like to tweak and are good at it, you can put together a very reliable PCC, so if that's who you are, go for it. I'm not, I want to shoot, not work on guns. If you can find a GMR to shoot (if you're ever in MD, look me up), pick up some 150gr Syntecs and see what you think. You'll be in for a treat. Good luck.

I have that same trigger in my Q5 SF. I do not have that issue.

Buy once, cry once. There are people shooting just about everything and knocking it out of the park....but I prefer CZ to just about everything else - ready to go out of the box. Additional work can help but isn't required. It seems to me that Glock and Canik need "work" to make them competitive and if you like working on guns, go for it. I like to buy it and shoot it. Good luck.

I own a GMR-15 and have shot CMMG side by side with factory ammo a couple of times. Doing this, the CMMG has a softer recoil impulse, in my opinion. I can load ammo that makes the GMR close with some tuning (weights, springs, etc.). Now if your question had been CMMG vs. JP-5............

For what it’s worth, I shoot with two guys regularly who both have issues with the mags, no matter what gen. Seems like a strange choice to not go with Glock mags, do they say why? Otherwise DD has made some really good stuff, I had an AR from them that was awesome.

The problem is the mag catch on Glock and several other mags. The catch is only a depression, not cut through as on MBX Glock mags. The additional weight of the metal extension and the extra 10 rounds is too much for your mag catch. You insert the mag, load and fire. The extra weight and the recoil jostles the mag enough the next round won't feed. If you hold the mag in, it will feed. After you do this for 3-4 rounds, the mag is light enough to be retained in position by your mag catch. You cannot solve this problem if using Glock 33-round mags as your base. SMS mags won't work either. Don't know about ETS 33-round mags. I had exactly the same problem on my PCC. I sold the mags and extensions and bought 40-round ETS mags. They work 100%. Never had this issue either. I have 3 PCC Glock mag guns, all function perfectly with own Glock mags. The cheap Korean mags are not good. Magpie is so so. I’d smooth the transistion between the extension and the mag body. I also fill my mags when new and leave them loaded for a while to set the spring. Not sure if this makes a difference.

I have this: https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/racer-pcc-magazine-pouch No complaints at all - good combination of holding and release. And they have a new version: https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-pcc-magazine-pouch Pricey buy great quality.

Stick with the OEM Glock mags, they last longer and are built better. The magpul, ETS and other brands are just plastic whereas the Glock has metal reinforcement inside. There are knockoff mags that look just like the Glock mags but are super cheap, made in Korea mostly - stay away from them, lots of issues. Good luck

HS6 for me, I chose it for one reason, it does not need a compressed load to make PF in 9mm. Compressing powder just seems wrong to me although most do it with no issues. Worked up to a great load, gives me an average of 169 PF with 124gr RMR FP MW in my Czechmate. I haven't loaded any other powders for major but I use a lot of Vihtavuori powders for other loads, it seems a little cleaner. Good luck.

IMO - none of the aftermarket or factory attempts at delayed cycling have come close to the JP5. Fellow shooter bought CMMG - 9mm - don't know what model, after break-in it ran fine. When 6 of us compared the CMMG side by side with my JP5 and GMR-15, it was no comparison. JP was #1 by a large margin on 4 different types of ammo - 115g, 124g, 147g x2. The CMMG beat the GMR although not by a lot. All subjective observations so take those for what it's worth. As for mods needed right out of the box - none needed to compete day 1. Trigger is awesome, ergos great, reliability 100%. Yes they are pricey, the best usually is. If you aren't competing, you'll be happy with the CMMG. Shoot one before you buy. Might want to save up some $$. And yes, I am a huge fan of JP, no question.

On my 3rd PCC - Franken-build, JP GMP-15, JP JP-5. The JPs have a break-in regime. Didn't follow it. Seemed silly to me, something more for a hyper-accurate precision rifle. I shot the heck our of it, cleaned it, shot it again.....a lot.

Not to be picky, but that is the ejector, the extractor is on the bolt. Regardless, I'd send it back and deal with the hassle. Bending, filing, whatever, might fix it but then again, it might not, who wants a gun you aren't confident in, even if its just for plinking"

The handguard choice is, to me, a matter of preference. Which one are you referring to? They have 3 basic models - the rapid configuration (round holes), signature (slots) and the m-lok. I have the rapid model on my GMR-15, I replaced it with a smokes composite CF guard. The rapid and signature are solid as a rock but a little heavy at least to me. I have the M-lok on my JP-5, I love it, don't have a reason to change it out. That being said, there are more affordable options that will serve you well, in my opinion. As for the barrel - I wouldn't have anything else but the JP - worth every penny. They just run - all the time. The Taccom adds a ramp to their barrel to help with feeding, the JP does not have this because it doesn't need it. I wouldn't have anything other than a silent capture buffer/bolt combo but that's just my preference - I don't like to tinker, I just want to shoot. I have a couple of Taccom products and they seem to be reasonable values. They are not in a league with JP or other high-end brands but they don't cost as much either. Good luck.

Taran Tactical, Taylor Freelance, MBX - outstanding - just watch the OAL of the TF - needs to be <1.125". Taccom 57 runs fine but have not done much testing at full cap. I use only Glock OEM mags but others seem to have luck with ETS. I think you should plan on "de-flashing" the mag bottom where it will transition to the extension on any of these. I also relieve sharp edges on the follower. For what it's worth, the TF are by far the easiest to take apart after they've been assembled.

The stock is likely form doublestar- an arfx, or something to that effect. I have this in several guns, I love a fixed stock, no wobbles. I try to mount perfectly and not re-adjust.

I used to buy Freedom Munitions 9mm quite a bit before I started reloading. I shots 1000’s of rounds with no issue but I did have a box of 500 that had some (2-3 per 100) that were not crimped properly. They have me full refund. If I recall, the 115 and 124 was a bit hit and the 147 was soft.

Yes. Pretty much like any other AR type barrel.

I wish I had some experience they could help you, but I’ve only had this happen with a Timney trigger in my Stag 9mm PCC. I found no solution to the issue and changed it to a dedicated CMC PCC trigger with no issues. It was very frustrating because it didn’t happen all the time. Are you using a dedicated PCC trigger or a generic one for an AR15? Good luck.

I have the brass gridlok on my Czechmate - excellent grip - shot a couple others with cerakoted brass - seemed very similar to me. Just ordered aluminum gridlock painted (anodized?) orange - they are much grippier than the brass, although admittedly they are brand new, we'll see if/how they wear.

I tried the Springer 170 extensions, did not have good luck, sent it to Springer, they were super nice but couldn't make it work. Refunded me and sent me a 140 extension, that has worked well. I use the 28 round mags, they need to be tuned but work well afterwards - obviously not an answer to your 20 rd mag question though. If I had it to do over again, I would buy MBX and be done with it, they seem to work in friends guns and they swear by them. Good luck.

I’ve read where the mag well interferes but I can’t remember where. The stick part of the drum is very short so it doesn’t surprise me.

I've not paid any particular attention to cleaning the chamber - round count just over 12k. No issues that I have found. I shoot 100" FMJ RMR bullets and factory stuff sometimes.