Terp

There's a reason Acme always has bullets in stock. I'll leave it at that.

Same...one (or three) and done. That's not the case with these...some taking more than 75 whacks to pull, a testament to my tremendous stamina.

I was using a board, but moved to the flat part of the vise. I may have to throw down the gauntlet and send you a dummy round to put you to the test, Sarge. I'd lay good odds. (edit: vise, not vice, though I have both)

...just to follow up. I pulled a few that I had loaded longer (1.150") and it took me 17/27/31/21/18 whacks to pull, so not as bad as some of the BBs I have previously pulled, but still amazing how well they hold on to the brass. I can't explain it, though...no issues with other coated bullets. Interesting nonetheless. some

As a 'data guy', I like how you roll, sir! Very nice. I've been meaning to aggregate my chrono/load data much like this, so your file serves as an inspiration. I, too, had problems with DG's coating, but the loads were very respectable and accurate. Surprisingly, I didn't have the leading I expected with them, so I loaded up the rest of the 800 bullet bag to ping steel. I also found them to smoke a little more (and left one side of my cases very black, even when loaded to 130pf,..assuming a function of the coating).

...in the custom attributes above, sir; for this particular load, 1.140" OAL was used. I've loaded 5-6 different bullets from them at different lengths, but I will revisit this and see if the longer ones give me as much of an issue (and load up a couple dummies longer like your open bullets that are approaching near max SAAMI)...just don't remember any of them being "easy", per se. I'm *glad* I'm not alone and you, too, have experienced the tough pulls. Definitely not a knock on them...quite the contrary.

...been evaluating an assortment of every BB 9mm bullet they produce. One thing I've noticed—have the damnedest time pulling these bullets! Anyone else experience this phenomenon? It's definitely not an issue to my setup. I can usually pull a bullet in 2-3 whacks with the kinetic hammer, though sometimes an extra whack or two might be required for a particular bullet that may be seated deeper into the case taper; I have had some Blues, however, require more than 50-100 whacks of the hammer, irrespective of how deep/shallow thy are seated (both .355 and .356)! lol DEFINATELY no setback concerns, no release/pressure issues whatsoever, no resizing going on, not even a scratch on the pulled bullet...perfect 'interference' between the coating and the case...just a strange occurrence that I only experience with these. I love the results I am getting, both in terms of accuracy and chrono data/consistency, but just thought I would ask if anyone else has these issues or is it just me?

Agreed. It's one thing when sellers list for $50 on gunbroker and the bidding takes the final price that high; it's another thing when an operation takes their $20 wholesale product and sells it for $280 retail...an acceptable business practice, sure, but they will NEVER get a single dime from me going forward. Ever.

I've shied away from N310, but do have some N320 data w/ those bullets... 4.1gr came in right at 127PF, but went with 4.3gr and loaded up a few hundred to evaluate:

Problem solved...lookie, lookie. Will open the one hole up a bit to slide it over and square it up. Crazy, but I couldn't go through life like that.

...looks square on the Dillon site, at least the side shown.

One last asinine question. My OCD is kicking in and on a beer break while installing the mount, so have to ask. Does your mount fit square/flush to the base of the press, or is it "crooked" like this (below). I checked both sides all around to ensure they weren't (L)(R) side-specific before bolting it on...total mirror images of one another...but never seen one this far off (it's the 650/750 only strong mount, so only one hole in each corner for the 4 bolts that connect to the press...not the double-holes in each corner like for the 550/650/750 mount). Even though I swear they are mirror images of one another, I'll have to go try to switch sides and see if that corrects it, though I don't see how...not a big deal, but I'll keep looking at it for years thinking I should have switched sides if I don't. ...and the holes are pretty fitted, so it;'s not like there's a lot of play to just loosen them up and straighten it out. Strange.

Put me down for 6. I'm in.

So you are planning on taking arguably one of the most reliable service weapons in the world and bastardize it with a slew of aftermarket parts and use it for EDC? Interesting.

I assume it's because they, too, need to jump through hoops to acquire them, so they mark them up....but 500%+ is absurd. People pay it, so they continue to do it (like drop-in triggers that cost 50% of what a whole new gun costs). I might call down to the Sheriff's department and see what I can do; maybe they'll understand and help me out before they are dissolved by the defund wackos.

Even as a certified armorer, non-LEO clowns like myself can't order minus connectors from the mothership (and doubt the Chief of Police is going to sign-off on it, either). So does everyone just suck it up and pay the 526% markup (or use aftermarket parts), or is there a source that sells them for a more reasonable, say, 3x the price on the price sheet? I like to stay stock and like the '-' connector, but don't want to scrounge from the G34 to drop one in the G45 I plan to use for CO. edit: ...and somewhat refuse to pay $25.99 for a $3.99 part.

I just noticed this same issue...put the SRO in the nightstand safe with the G19 RMR carry weapon...take them out in the morning and the RMR is exactly the brightness I like and adjusts instantly outdoors, in a blackened closet, etc...SRO comes out too dim, seemingly on the lowest setting. I adjust manually in all conditions. I was an early adopter...guess I should consider sending it back (if they have correct newer models and no longer an issue). Hmmmm....

^^THIS^^ is the reason I was asking.

I see you drilled another hole. Genius. lol I'll mount the wood flush to the front of the cabinets, then, and be good to go either way. The issue was screwing down the front without hitting the cabinet frames, so wanted to move it back an inch or so to get some decent clearance...can move the mount to the edge and drill the extra hole an inch back if I run into any issues with the handle. Good call. Thanks again.

Thank you, sir...good to know. I was hoping someone with a strong mount mounted back from the edge would give some insight..very helpful. Thanks again. (I have a 200+ pound solid wood bunting door I am mounting on 3x 2-door cabinets in the garage, so just put it on the bench and pull the handle isn't an option yet. )

I was going through the instructions and getting ready to mount the strong mount to my bench. For installation without the strong mount, I believe the instructions call for x" of overhang; however, the I believe the strong mount eliminates the need for overhang, correct? The instructions say to mount it "close to the front edge...", so thought I would ask—is 1.5" from the edge going to be a problem? I thought I would ask once, drill once, and avoid having the bench look like some clown was poking and hoping while looking for a stud in the wall.

Judging from the supply out there, that's a good problem to have, sir.

Thanks, Sarge...won't hold out until free shipping is offered, then.

I made it 15 pages deep and this is spot-on; however, a few more pages of problems and you can add zip-ties (cleaning out stuck primers), carnuba car wax, a shoe-box and some "primer lube" to your list. I've seen enough. Thanks, guys.

Forgive me if these are asinine questions—both are probably no—but I remember a page on the Dillon site that let you customize the press of choice (back before the 750 dropped); you would pick the press and then it would have all the add-ons specific for that press and you could simply add all the extra stuff on one page and add the whole package to the cart. Did they do away with that? (I can't find it and their forum is still a ghost town.) Now it seems you add the stock press to the cart, then visit the individual product pages to add all the extras...booo. Also, I am probably thinking of other sites or back when Brian sold them, but didn't Dillon also have free shipping when you ordered a press? I could be wrong on this one and they never offered it, but thought I would ask.