chicoredneck

I’ve been running the hypertap now for a few months. The recoil reduction is amazing.

That’s basically what they do. The problem arises with tolerance stacking. The barrel extension, barrel, bolt, and bolt carrier all have an impact on headspace and they all have an allowable tolerance level that is very small. But if you get two or more of these pets that are at have within this margin but not exact, you can start having problems with your headspace and other issues. To answer the OPs question, you need to headspace it with the actual bolt that will be used in the rifle to really know %100.

What Rainydays says is true, but squaring the reciever face will help with precision even with a tight fitting extension. If the face isn’t square, the bolt lugs don’t engage the extension evenly and the round isn’t held in the chamber perfectly square. Also, if you don’t have a tight fitting barrel extension, you can bed it to the reciver extension. I just use blue locktite. That way I can still remove it, but even broken down under heat, it still provides structure to fill in the voids.

I have used a lot of AR Performance barrels over the last 7 years. Overall, I have had very good success with them. My only caveat with them now is that I would not recommend their barrels unless you are running an adjustable gas block because they use .75 gas ports on everything.

So far I like the comp. I haven’t drilled any of the ports, but the rifle stays flat with the current set up. I had some issues with what I think was either torque caused by the rifling, or the full power spring slamming the carrier home to hard. In addition to the TTI spring, I also added some lead shot into the buttstock compartment, which added a couple pounds. After these changes, the issues went away. Its the lightest and flattest shooting 223 I have ever shot.

I threw in the TTI spring and it solved my problem. It’s amazingly soft shooting and cycles incredibly smooth!

I’m was running a standard rifle spring.

Actually, it’s also possible the bolt was outrunning the magazine, as cases were ejected, but nothing was fed. It didn’t have the issue initially, but after about 15 rounds it started occurring.

Short stroking. When I threw in the rifle buffer the problem went away.

Took the rifle out today for its first run. I tired Blockader’s buffer/extension tube method. I had a very flat impulse, but couldn’t get it to cycle reliably even with the gas all the way up. I’ll need to play with it more. When I dropped in the rifle length buffer with some of the weight removed it ran much more reliably, but it had slightly more recoil. The rifle stays very flat, but I’m excited experiencing more wobble than I like.

I would still try a different optic if you have one just to rule it out. I have had several scopes fail right out of the box.

Edwardc, did you try a different optic? Very often, if everything on rifle checks out, no bedding issues, scope mount issues, etc, the issue is with the scope.

I broke down and bought the hyper fire. We’ll see how it runs. I also picked up a TTI spring to play with, but I’m confused as it’s ~2” shorter than a standard carbine spring.

Similar to many of the posters, I use a plumb line and a leveled rifle. If you use this method, center the bore on your plumb line prior to leveling the crosshairs. Also, avoid using cheap small levels, as they often have some error. I know this by testing them against larger levels. You can buy small magnetic lelevs that will stick to your rifle, but test them against a good larger level before trusting them.

That’s not what my post was insinuating at all. There are a few typing errors in my original post which maybe made it difficult to read. 55gr lead core bullets only need a 1/14 twist to stabilize, but that means they will be stable in any twist rate faster than that, which includes the common 1/9, 1/8, and 1/7. What I was saying is that if you use really cheap ammo with poorly balanced bullets (not perfectly uniform), a twist rate faster than what is needed exaggerates the imbalance and will cause degraded accuracy. The reason most classsic rifles have twist rates just fast enough to stabilize bullets they were designed to use is because bullet manufacturing was not very precise in the past. The slower twist rate lead to greater accuracy. Now days, bullets and manufacturing processes are much better, and in most cases it’s a non issue. The 1/2x28” threading has nothing to do with bullet stability. It can cause the release of the bullet from the muzzle to be less consistent if bore swelling occurs. This is well known among barrel manufacturers. How much impact does it have on accuracy? That is unpredictable. Sometimes it has none, sometimes more, but it’s usually not a tremendous impact.

There is something else going on other than your ammo choice if you are getting 12-14” groups. You may have an issue with loose mounts or a bad scope. It could also be an issue with a improperly torqued barrel nut. Try eliminating these variables. If it still is shooting groups that size, I would contact Savage.

Go test it on the range. 5 years putting together target rifles professionally teaches you a few nuances about finer accuracy. My experience with Savage barrels is that they can be very accurate, but suffer from what I described above and foul excessively, which may also be the OPs issue.

Unfortunately, the 1/2x28” thread pattern causes the bore to swell slightly due to the amount of metal removed. This can cause bullets with a shorter shank to wobble slightly as they exit the bore, especially if the bore does not swell evenly. The 69gr bullet works well because of the Long shank and short ojive. It helps in both setting the ojive closer to the lands and keeping more of the shank in the tight portion of the bore prior to exiting the barrel. The 1/8 twist doesn’t help either with light bullets. Most of today’s are very bullets well balanced, so shooting them in a twist that is faster than optimal for their length usually does not have much affect on accuracy. However, really cheap may ammo have poorly balanced bullets, and the fast twist rate exaggerates the inbalance and causes accuracy issues. Lead core 55gr ammo really only needs a 1/14 twist to stabilize. Try shooting 65-80 bullets and see if accuracy improves.

I went with a TTI spring instead of the scs. I’m going to play around with a couple different spring and buffer weights to see how it goes. Everything other than a muzzle break is ordered now. Just waiting...

I just realized, the spacer would be at the rear of the extension tube. I re-read your post. Just to clarify, you are running a rifle length extension, standard weight , spring and an empty carbine buffer? About how many quarters do you find you need to properly compress the spring to prevent bottoming out?

I’m intrigued by this. Preventing the buffer from bottoming out would be introducing the constant recoil system, which is great for recoil control. I’m not following the idea completely though. If I run a carbine buffer with a rifle tube and spring, where would the spacers go? Do you keep any weight in the carbine buffer?

Alright, so I’ve started amassing parts. So far I’ve decided I’m going with an: ARperformance 18” Rifle gas barrel A whiskey arms carrier JP SCS with the spring pack Superlative adjustable gas block Either SJC Titan or precision hypertap break ( can’t make up my mind on this one). I already have an upper, bolt, gas tube, pins, carrier parts and 13” hand guard. Am I missing anything?

Anyone using the superlative arms gas block? I like the idea of the gas bleed off, but am concerned the vented gas may be to near where I’m holding the rifle.

Are you seeing any ware on the upper receiver?

Thanks!