PigSnowball

Yup. the laser'd hip shots definitely take practice. I also find the laser quite useful when hitting close targets and you are running at quickly. It can be less movement to NOT shoulder the stock (and hence the need for the laser sight).

I'd switch to them but in extended mags 21rd pmags mags anyway, they don't lift to the lips. Nothing wrong with the ammo. If I was shooting production, no problem. Perhaps in metal mags they stick less.

Yeah agreed. So, Froglube is coconut oil allegedly and definitely seems to behave like it. So vegetable based oils are great for cleaning, and will lubricate. But when exposed to air and heat, do not have much of a life expectancy and will actually turn rancid. You are absolutely not first (or will be the last story) of experiencing frog lube turning into a sludge. I still do like vegetable oils for cleaning, especially because they are non-toxic. But they are not... stable... I think the chemistry term is.. I fully concur that with the only downfall of it being toxic, mobil 1 motor oil is applied easily and is easy to wipe off (with all the carbon and fouling suspended in the oil). No real "cleaning" needs to be done. On a side note... Mobil 1 is not longer fully synthetic unless you by the "extended life" version of the motor oil. Regular mobil 1 is actually isomerize crude oil as it's base oil to achieve greater purity and yield.

Yeah I'm running a brownells slide... Still looking.. I don't really want to get a custom made but it's starting to look that way..

I have done testing on 16 different factory ammos commonly bought in bulk across three different pistols (M&P, Glock, Sig P320). And my findings concur with yours, Tula is genuinely very accurate stuff. Out of the 16, tula was the most accurate in 2 pistols and 2nd most accurate in 1 pistol.

Thanks for sharing man. Shows excellent character to be able to share our low lights.

Grease (any grease, lithium based if you're asking for anything specific, but seriously, any grease pretty much works for firearms) for spots that have load bearing, impact or shear force. SO grease on the sliding components of the bolt, faces of impact areas, hammer disconnector, impact face of the firing pin. A light coat of Oil pretty much anywhere else you see wear or is a moving component. Which oil? Mobil1 Motor Oil (or any motor oil) 0W-x or 5W-x (it doesn't need to be thick). It obviously has the lubrication needed under severe conditions but valuably comes with a very well developed (and proven) additives package that contains detergents and displacers for lifting and suspending carbon especially but other dirt and wear material in the oil. It also obviously has other additives specifically targeting the metal itself from corrosion and anything else. A good oil like Mobil 1 will ensure that carbon build up simply does not take place. My clean up of the barrel face (and everything else) consists of only wiping off the old oil using paper towels leaving clean shinny metal (I have a stainless barrel). I also see good things about ATF, which is the same base oils as motor oils, however the additive package is far more significant as many ATFs are designed for the life of a car. Part of this is because the ATF isn't subject to the same peak temperatures as the motor oil, but they absolutely do have more sophisticated additives to target all forms of wear and lifetime maintenance issue like keeping the surface of metals clean from crap and stay lubricated. Basically, the maintenance cycle of a car. Don't let it run dry. Change oil at a regular interval. No elbrow grease is needed to clean engines (or the firearm).

So I already know that most Glock 17 holsters will not fit a P80. Sooo... what works? Right now my bladetek for an M&P actually does fit although is about a half inch from engageing properly, it still covers and friction holds it in place. Some have recommended getting a glock 21 sized holster?

Both the steel and titanium AR9 firing pins from PSA have unconditional lifetime warranties. https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-custom-ar-9-enhanced-firing-pin-116003.html https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-custom-9mm-ar9-pcc-titanium-firing-pin-116004.html I like to think that because the selling price is so cheap, they are unlikely to be looking to make money purely on just a replacement service. There's likely way less margin on these than a single RMA claim would cover... This all being said, I'm about to switch to a hiperfire and a spare firing pin is absolutely in my range bag... I don't have any spare firing pin springs though..... haven't found a place to buy them...

What's the variable that I should be looking out for to see if the buffer is too heavy or too light for the load?

This doesn't sound like a good way to remove them for the purpose of routine cleaning... How much damage is done?

OK, so... mostly intrigued by the OAL restriction. I have a small "library" of easily available at low cost factory ammo. I took 10 measurements from each, took the average, max and 4 sigma high. Out of 16 factory ammos, only 2 are under the 1.1250 recommended by Taylor Freelance. Aguila 115 Gr... Which I haven't seen available in a long time and happens to be the worst performing ammo in terms of accuracy out of the bunch (19MOA average from 4 different guns).

Thanks for pointing this out. I think when I bought it that warning might not have been on the site, but either way, it's clear instructions. So the blazer brass is about 1.67, wwb about 1.51, tula 1.63.. All way over. I've got a box out back with about 20 different factory ammos for reference, i'll take a look at their OALs. The other useful point from the warning is about it "feeling sticky" after 35 rounds. And that's definitely what's happening. So... with these factory ammos above the limit, I could probably get reliable functioning if I just load to 35, which is fine for most of the stages anyway... For reference, the goliath internal capacity is about 1.651, sooo, i think the4 1.250 statement is... very conservative.. I haven't had any issue with wwb at 1.51

That sounds good to me? How does that take down? I can find videos of their original pmag extension, but not so much the glock extension (nor a place that has them in stock).

Yeah I'll still have my goliath for truly big stages and outlaw matches, I can set aside the right ammo for that mag if I eventually work out what works well... Just want something that will run all types of ammo more reliably for the many stages that are 30 and below round count stages. I think that even +0 base pad is tolerable if the extension is easy. Easy to me means 1. No tiny loose screws or unretained pins. 2. Tool-less if at all possible. A pen or anything on my skeletool would be a runner up. Should I consider the ETS 31 rd mag?

I've found there's a LOT of crap blasted into the mag. I didn't initially realize until I started getting misfeeds about 400 rounds in without a mag clean. 1. How the heck do you "easily" pull the +2 extension off the 31rd glock mags for cleaning? It's hell! 2. Is there a good base pad to facilitate easy disassemble and still get the +2 or more? 3. I already have the goliath, and it's great for disassembly and cleaning. But it's picky with ammo it seems. Completely fails to lift steel cased ammo. Also doesn't seem to feed blazer brass 115gr which has cost me 2 matches. I like the goliath generally speaking, ordered a batch of S&B that I hope it likes... I could really use something in the some 40 range of extension, that isn't picky with feeding ammo and is easy to clean. I don't need +20 most of the time and want a bump in reliability, I think standard glock 31+2 mags would do fine if they were easier to clean.

I use a comptac for both USPSA and IDPA, I know another shooter who does the same (both sports using a comp tac). I see a lot of other shooters using either the red hill or comp tac in USPSA. I see nobody using the bladetec.

I've got 3 dud BX25 mags too. I've seen countless others have similar problems. Just stick to the tens... Or. get an M&P15-22. Cheap 25 round mags that are easy to load, great ergonomics, you'll never look back. I regret ever buying my 10-22... so many after market things on it and ultimately, it's just not as good as the 15-22 off the shelf.

Their ruling is very clear, in fact, could not be MORE clear, the act of firing rounds (even lots of them and often) with the brace shouldered has no bearing on whether it is a pistol or SBR. USPSA needs to update the rule, it's unnecessary. Many recreational shooters buy pistol brace pistol calibre pistols PCC could be a very welcome intro division for many people out there to the sport if they had a division to use that firearm. I dare say that braced pistols are probably more popular than pistol calibre rifles. I only see rifle lengths used in competition. I do see a need for WSBs to be updated to include "stock or brace" or some other word to allow for either and perhaps even bare buffer tubes eg. cheek touching gun or belt touching gun.

I'm not sure if I'm ready to go polymer on polymer like a glock. I don't have a glock waggle as part of my reload technique... And aren't ETS mags just bad for glocks anyway?

Does anyone know what these "gen4" changes are? The lower looks like a gen1... https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-gen4-4-9mm-1-10-gx-m-lok-moe-ept-shockwave-pistol-5165450018.html

Would max get a procedural for touching this wall foot? According to the new rule, the wall foot is a wall foot and hence touching it is a ding. "All wall or platform supporting structures, including, but not limited to: feet, braces, angle supports, chains, cables etc., are deemed to be non-existent and cannot be used for support." Nowhere does it say support structures can be touched in any circumstance inside or outside a shooting area. These seems unintentional as this wall foot has no tactile feel and little visual indication they might be touching the wall foot. I'm also particularly concerned about what is deemed to be "support structure" with regards to a port in a wall just like Nick.