3Dflyer

I use this to swage my 223 brass because it works well on a progressive press, thus saving time from handling brass for another step. https://swageit.com/swage-it-small-large-primer-pocket-swager-for-the-dillon-xl750/

I could not figure out my decapping issues that began suddenly. I was getting finished rounds with old primers still in place. Look what I found! The .22lr case and stuck primer prevented primers from being fully pushed out. The partially pushed out used primers would be set again on stage two when a new primer would reseat the old one. I quickly adopted better brass cleaning and sorting practices after this situation.

Clean shot 3.6 gr, 147 blue bullets round nose, cci 500 primers, and plunk test in your gun for length. I get about 130 power factor. If new to reloading, get a chrono ASAP! Best investment to realize your results for each adjustment you make. Competition Electronics ProChrono DLX Chronograph White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTJYQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7xTnEb6QF5JCM

3.7 gr cleanshot 147 blue round nose 1.100 +/-.03 oal 131-132 power factor stock cz shadow 2 At an indoor match I was accused of shooting bunnie farts and asked to chrono my ammo, I was accused of sub 125 power factor by friendly shooters. On site my ammo chronoed 131-132 just as I promised. Fellow shooters were scratching their heads, but pleasantly surprised. I could reduce the charge, but this cycles all of my guns better than 3.2-3.5 gr. I lose 2 power factor from my Dan Wesson PM 9 and gain 3 power factor from my Canik Tap9sfx. Therefore I enjoy this middle ground.

Remember, you can always call Dillon while standing in front of the machine and they will walk you through the troubleshooting steps. Great service crew. Bet they can have you running in 20 minutes.

Watch to see if your brass is being fed too far into position, causing the top of the brass to lean towards the center of the shell plate, then when the feeder pulls back, watch to see if the brass rocks back and moves away from the center of the shell plate, causing the brass to no longer be centered under the die. If if the top of the brass is rocking, your feeding mechanism need to be adjusted. I had had this problem.

So, by over sprung, this means the recoil spring is too stiff, thus slowing down the slide travel to the rear, but also slamming the slide forward with too much force? The slow slide hinders extraction and ejection? During my first shooting session I was using hand loads with a power factor of 125-130 and the brass was reluctant to make it 2-3 feet away from me while my Ruger Lc9s was ejecting the same ammo 10 feet away. Also, twice it would not strip the next round from the magazine, and the bullet would hang up on the feed ramp. I may need to look into some upgrades as I want to use my soft reloads.

A canik tp9sfx landed in my safe due to black friday. I have read many discussions about changing spring because the pistol is “over-sprung”, however, i have searched for explanations and symptoms of an over-sprung pistol. Can anyone explain these to me? this firearm appears to be a praised budget friendly competition capable gun. I will be using it potentially for uspsa or multigun as a weekend shooter.

This barrel also shoots 55-73gr bullets equally well. My previous barrel was terribly critical of ammo used. It was fussy with powder charges, too.

I recently swapped a frustrating 16” factory barrel for an Aero Precision 18” stainless deep fluted barrel for about $200 on sale. I lapped the receiver during the swap. Using a vortex 1-8 red dot it shoots sub 1” groups using a cheap rock river 2 stage trigger and sloppy plastic piccatini rail mounted $18 bipod. With a better scope, trigger, and base to rest on, I believe it could be 1/2” moa all day. The Aero barrels are made by ballistic advantage.

Update I just called Lee, and they said their brass trimmers will not work on this press.

I wonder if there is a good option to use this for trimming .223 brass and then run the brass through again to swage. I load on a 750, but need an affordable way to process brass outside of the house. Any ideas/knowledge on trimming?

I am new to shooting sports (3yrs), and new to reloading (1yr). I bought a Dillon 750 recently and decided to load 9mm and .223. In in two years I spent hundreds of $$$ chasing down ammo that my savage ar-15 would shoot well for blasting paper, 3-gun, home defense, and mostly hunting. The only ammo that worked was $1.25 per round! Not a solution for me. After a little learning and trials with errors, I am now loading .223 rounds for blasting paper at event, long range steel targets, bench rest bullseye, and very accurate hunting for about $0.49 per round including buying fully processed brass. Once I fire that brass it works even better in my gun and loads easier. I hope to get at least three cycles from that brass but hear of others getting six or more cycles from it. Without the cost of brass I am paying about $0.35-.37 per round. Since I started reloading .223 8 weeks ago I have shot 800 rounds, more than the previous 2.5 years combined. My gun gun runs reliably and shoot much more accurately, and I have the right ammo for the job. Working up up a load is like a whole new hobby with its own rewards and frustrations. It is more than just saving $$$ per round. Long winters here welcome indoor hobbies. The learning curve and and tools needed were greater than I expected. For now, buying fully processed brass is a good solution for me until I can save up and score a great bargain on used processing tools. Converting the 750 between rifle and pistol takes me about 30 minutes now, and getting quicker each time.

When I ordered my xl750, Dillon was out of stock and estimated a three week + backorder timeframe. Bobcat Armament had everything in stock. I assumed that Dillon would have inventory when others didn't. I was wrong.

How will using magnum primers vs standard small pistol primers affect the exact same load? Example is magnums used in place of regular Winchester primers the same projectiles and same powder drop?Winchester Is power factor affected? Felt recoil?

Bigboy69, Can you clarify your advice for setting my dies when you suggest putting a bullet in the die, are you talking about the powder drop/flaring die? Please forgive my ignorance. I am trying to visualize your instructions. I appreciate your help. I must admit that setting up a press and learning the fine details is a challenge.

To achieve a 130 power factor I loaded some sample rounds of 147 blue bullets, round nose, on top of 4.2gr, 4.5 gr, and 4.7 gr of hs-6. The middle load appears to be about perfect averaging 133 power factor with a SD of 9 using mixed range brass. I did increase the flare to where it really scrapes going into the seating die, but it does enter the die with added pressure. I am able to remove the flare with the crimping die. The lead shaving has stopped, but I do see brass residue after the seating die. I do use some diy dillon lube on the cases.

I have noticed rec entry that when I perform searches on youtube for anything related to the shooting sports that videos that come up are two years old. Content that is current is hard to find. Where else are folks going to find relevant firearm, reloading, and gunsmithing video content?

Regretfully I must report that I have not shot any matches with my M3K yet. All reasonably local matches are Sunday morning events, and I have family commitments every Sunday. Additionally, I had arm surgery and have not been released to shoot shotgun yet. My first multigun event is a month away but shotgun is not part of the stages. The m3k has been perfectly reliable during practice and trap shooting before I was benched for my arm.

Btw, titegroup was used for my past reloads. I did struggle with peeling lead shaving off on some rounds. Still working that out but expect that to be best solved when I decide on one specific projectile to use.

M700, Your advice hits home and is why I am hoping to use my ammo for practice during the next month. I dis use ammo I loaded on a borrowed press for the last event after hundreds of practice rounds. No failures during the event after I made some tweaks dicovered during practice. I was very concerned about your exact advice.

Hello, As a new reloader with an xl750 and 6 pounds of hs-6 powder on hand. I want to use blue bullets in 9mm using range brass and cci sp primers. My first IDPA match has me hooked enough to continue IDPA casually and also sign up for my first multigun event in a month from now. I will be using a Dan Wesson pointman 9 for IDPA and a sig P365 when shooting in BUG class. For Multigun A cz shadow 2 will be used. From my research here, It sounds like HS-6 prefers to be loaded higher on the ladder of grains and also is better at propelling heavier projectiles such as 147’s. Your experience is valuable and well appreciated. What insight can you all share with me as I gather my supplies and and set up the xl750 to load ip your recommendations. Truncated vs round nose? 125, 135, vs 147’s? HS-6 powder drop weight? crimp? overall length? I have been using 1.111 so far. I have a full Lee carbide die set with factory crimp installed.

Just bought the xl750 as my first press. I borrowed a friends 550 to gain some experience and determine if reloading was for me. I am very pleased so far. It runs smoothly, is solid, adding the self indexing shell plate combined with the variable speed case feeder I am impressed with the production rate.

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I did follow up with each company and Bobcat is the only one with everything in stock. Several knowledgeable shops, for aure.

Just placed my order with Kimball at Bobcat. What a great experience and helpful conversation. Excited!