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ChillyB

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Everything posted by ChillyB

  1. Mine had a hammer that would hang on a disconnector burr. After examining the phenomenon with trigger assembly in my hands, then clearancing where it was rubbing, it never happened again. I was only able to make it do that when working by hand but a slightly greater interference is all it would take. I may have posted photos at some point but this thread is now impossibly long so may take some ready. Maybe search by my user name in this thread.
  2. Investment, as in something that pays for itself? If that is your definition then almost certainly not. My recent production M3000 eats 1-1/8 oz target loads like candy straight out of the box. You may aid the discussion by advising your reason to want to shoot creampuff loads out of a 3" inertia gun. If goal is to shoot cheaper ammo (assuming it doesnt already run with cheap ammo) then run the numbers on how many rounds of cheap stuff one must shoot to break even at $90. If goal is to help mitigate recoil sensitivity issues then I think its worth considering. I had surgery on my shoulder so I can appreciate spending $90 to enable me to use a gun. But maybe an old 2-3/4" Remington 1100 would be a better choice for a bad shoulder.
  3. Also, I did mod my shell stop a bit by grinding back the front of the nose. If you look at it you'll see its straight for a bit before the taper begins. I ground it back to the taper so shells need not be pushed so far before being caught by the latch.
  4. A spring steel coil pin in aluminum hole seems questionable to me. I'll stick with original setup. The pin need not be tight in the hole, though I do admit the little clip is a hassle to install and easy to lose.
  5. I strongly recommend a used complete progressive. So many old guys getting out of reloading, combined with dubious economics of reloading shotshell, and you shouldnt have to look too long to find a clean used setup. Estate sales amd auctions are a good place to look. Remind me why I reload shotshell? Dang, this is an old thread! I could apologize, but apparently there isnt enough traffic to bother.
  6. Cutting on Stoegers is as natural as taking the next hit of crack. But I can stop anytime I want, right? RIGHT?! I moved the port forward a bit more, raised the cut on starboard side, and the loading jam where the crimp overrode the preceding shell's rim is greatly reduced.
  7. Did you try for real parkerizing? For small parts Ive had good luck with a coffee cup in microwave. Thats an excellent base for subsequent painting such as Duracoat.
  8. Here is a photo of a shell in the tube. Not much exposed shell so I have to really hook a thumb in there to get shells past the latch. I think I'll advance the front of the port, sharpen the radius, and raise the starboard side off the port. But before doing any more cutting I'm going to use it as-is. I dont compete so there is no rush.
  9. In the above post you can see the shells jam up in the funnelled area because of the kink in their alignment. Lowering the back of the rear shell will help to remedy this. Until now I hadnt messed with the trigger guard but this condition gives me a reason to do so. I opted to grind a chute instead simply cutting it away. I'm thinking this will help give some lateral stability. I started with a dremel sanding roll, finished off by wrapping a shell in 200 grit sandpaper, rubbing it back and forth to smooth out the chute. GO SLOW WITH THE DREMEL. Easy to take off too much plastic and I nearly did. I realize I'm not doing anything that hasnt been pioneered before. I'm giving my perspective of what I'm doing and why I'm doing it. Every cut should be an attempted solution to a problem. My concern is that I'm not experienced with these shotgun techniques so its quite possible that I will try to solve a technique problem with a dremel. So I'll go very slow and hope for some advice from those who have been through this.
  10. My port work so far has been conservative but is a starting point. If I had a do-over I would not have touched the region aft and below the mag tube entry. My intention was to create a funnel into the tube but what happens is the crimp of the incoming shell jams between the rim of the preceding shell and the tapered floor mag tube entry. I think this will be resolved when I open the loading port forward some more. Photo shows the shell orientation when it locks up. When this happens the shell isnt just difficult to load, it flat out WILL NOT feed no matter how hard I push. My advice is to not try to form a funnel into the tube by tapering the floor of the entrance. Break the edge, chamfer a bit, dont make it a funnel. In the photo you can also see where my port work approached the serial number. 1,8XX,XXX serial range. Brand new Dec 2018 gun.
  11. Not moved. Still limiting port work on lower starboard edge.
  12. I massaged the loading port, and think I need to work forward toward the magazine a bit more. The shell rim is just visible. I still need to stuff my thumb in there to click it past the shell stop. Either the port work needs to advance forward or the shell stop edge needs to move rearward, or both. I dont recall reading of anyone shaving the front tip of the magazine shell stop. This is part number G03, otherwise called the bolt release. Did I miss it? Is this being done?
  13. Thats good to know. But I did some blending and put it on with loctite so I accept that I own it now.
  14. Recent change to the tube makes sense. Mine is smooth amd quiet, didnt require polishing. Not happy that it wasnt held on with loctite, or that the thread fit seemed so loose, but removing it did give me easy acess for some blending. Then I put it back on with green loctite, the kind in a chapstick tube. It feeds better now but not yet satisfied. The lifter still causes crimps to hit the "septum" between barrel and mag tube except now the offending edge is chamfered a bit more so theyll slide past. I want the shells to not hit it at all.
  15. Is it known whether the M2000 barrels are same as M3000 barrel except for the barrel extension?
  16. Additionally, the fit of my tube into the receiver is so sloppy that I am quite disappointed in it. I'm wondering if an aftermarket tube will have better thread engagement. This is garbage. Inexcusable poor QC.
  17. Ok, guess whose tube cranked right out with a firm grip. Different threads on each end. As near as I can tell zero loctite. But my tube is smooth drom the factory, and has three humps at 120-deg separation about 2" from each end. I speculate purpose is to keep the spring centered and quiet over the tube. My action is very slick and quiet. Serial 1,820,XXX
  18. Another thought, and a long shot. Jesse had a tube come loose. He also happens to have had a tube on which the aftermarket adapter nut fit on easily whereas they were tight on other guns. My SWAG is that tubes are threaded identically on both ends, so loose nut correlates to loose fit in receiver (under-size threads on BOTH ends of tube). The loose fitment problem is exacerbated by gratuitous hogging off of receiver metal, leveraging the tube by rough treatment with a long lever attached (extension). I know its an old topic, but I just read tge entire thread and had some ideas on old matters.
  19. Messing with my new unported M3000, and attempting to (sort of) quad load, it serms to me the lifter moves too far toward the bolt. This causes the crimp of my shells to jam into the "taint" (forgive me for throwing around the technical terms I learned on this thread). Rather than shaving my taint, how about if I build up the fin on the top starboard edge of the lifter that bumps into the bolt carrier? EDIT: On closer inspection I think its the very front of the PORT fin that limits the swing of the lifter when the action is fully closed. Chilly
  20. I tried. I really did! But 134 pages of unorganized pages on the Stoeger 3000 is more than I can bear. I made it through 66 pages, and while helpful the menagerie of topics is difficult to handle. My phone needed to recharge thrice. Maybe this is a signal that a sub-forum of Stoeger M3000 is warranted but its not my forum so who am I to say. What I can say is 134 pages of posts is like the closing scene of Raiders of the Lost Ark where treasure is haphazardly shoved into an impossibly-large and uncatalogued repository of information. If anyone is interested my M3000 tube is smooth and quiet. The tune has some humps front amd rear. My guess is purpose is to center the spring at the rear because the spring never touches the front humps. I speculate the tube threads are identical front and rear so humps on both ends makes it error proof since can go on right either way. Maybe this was discussed between pages 66 and 134 but it'll take weeks of reading to find out. Hammer spring cap on mine is steel. Somewhere between page 1 and 66 someone said theirs was plastic. So that is now upgraded as well. Spring ends (all of them) are rough cut. I polished and deburred each. I discovered the issue of the hammer hanging because of the tight radius on corner of the hammer and blended that radius. That is fixed. My disconnector seems to not have a lot of engagement. Will monitor for doubling, and try to milk trigger to induce failure. So far, after thorough cleaning and polishing of surfaces that seem important, it ate three boxes of junk ammo salted away for my old 870s. I'll try to wade through pages 67 thru 134. Seriously, the Stoeger M3000 traffic warrants an organized sub-forum.
  21. Ok, thanks for the clarification. When I slowly lower the bolt it will not fully roll over to fully locked (dropping the handle from just 1/2" causes it to fully lock). Is that normal? I know to not walk the handle forward during normal operation.
  22. I dont have a Benelli but this is the phrase that seems used to describe a bolt not rotating fully into battery on inertia guns in general. I'm new to the Inertia Drive type (Stoeger M3000) and happy to report that it emptied three boxes of cheap ammo with rapid mag dumps. But thus "Benelli Click" thing piques my interest. Does it seem possible that the rough ends of the bolt spring are causing sufficient rotational friction to cause the bolt to not rotate fully? The ends of the spring are quite rough. As the action closes the bolt rotates and seats deeper into the carrier. I suppose at some point the bolt cams deep enough into the carrier that the spring is touching the carrier at the rear and the bolt tail at the front. Is this how it happens? Could polishing the cut ends of the bolt spring resolve this issue? A stronger recoil spring may lessen the probability of malfunction but maybe by brute force instead of resolving the root cause. Im entirely new to inertia shotguns so dont hesitate to dismiss this idea, and I welcome discussion that disproves the theory. If anyone had a "clicker" it would be cool to polish the spring ends to see if the problem goes away. Humbly, Chilly
  23. See the shiny axial stripe near my finger. There are three shallow humps front and three rear. Looking at it again, the ring on the slide bar assembly never rides over the humps. Purpose must be related to the spring, perhaps helping to center the ends of the spring so the center tends to not drag on one side or another.
  24. Been looking at M3000 for a while, was easily abke to resist them at $550 but local chain had them for $400 after a $75 mail-in rebate. It's a 28" Max 5 camo. For $400 they could paint it pink, or worse yet "zombie green". First order of business was a full teardown to get rid of the rust preventive goo. I pity the fool who skips this step. I noticed the mag tube is not a simple straight cylinder. At front and rear there are raised humps at 120-deg separation. At first I thought it was a defect, then noticed the symmetry so figure it serves some purpose. I speculate the humps help to remove slide slop when in battery, but gives it clearance while cycling. Seems like it should also give the spring some clearance so it isnt rubbing the tube as much. Anyone know for sure? Are all M3000 tubes this way or is this a recent change? Thanks ChillyB
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