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NPDriver

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Everything posted by NPDriver

  1. The price is the exact same amount I paid for my CMMG RDB bolt & barrel set. Maybe if they knocked a hundred off the MSRP it would be worth a look?
  2. Will do Les. So far I've added a LaRue MBT-2S trigger, great 2-stage trigger for under $100, a PWS enhanced buffer tube/QD endplate w/ locking castle nut. The anti-tilt lip on that tube really helps. The BCG is already started into the tube when you close it up. Got their PCC comp too, nice piece. I also used a POF roller cam pin, my goal was to keep this thing as smooth cycling as possible. Got a Geissele charging handle for it a few weeks ago. Next is a Kynshot hydraulic buffer, I'm told the #5005, AR10 model is the best for this application. I'll get around to it sooner or later, just got back from vacation & those paychecks tend to be a little light, but I'll post here with my results. Good luck with the fine tuning! Jerry
  3. Yeah, I never did anything with mine either. The only time I had failures to eject was when using a brass catcher. Still gonna open it up though or get one of those PCC specific upper recievers with the oversized ejection port. Been eyeballing this one myself but there are a few out there. https://www.rainierarms.com/arms-republic-9mm-stripped-billet-upper-receiver/
  4. It's always easier to remove material than add to it, so just go easy once you get close. Did you open up your ejection port at all?
  5. Yes sir! You have it running so obviously it's close. I wouldn't touch the mags myself, I wouldn't want any variation between any of my magazines. Give the release a little shave, you know it's close if it's cycling. What lower are you working with?
  6. Another vote for Foxtrot Mike's here. I bought one of their build kits (sadly discontinued) on black Friday of last year and stuffed a CMMG Guard bolt & 8" barrel in it, so I had a good look at everything close up while putting it together, then tearing it apart to get the fitment right. I didn't know what to expect when I ordered it but for $199, what the hell right? When I was at the local shop getting it transferred I started digging through the parts. I was expecting some machine marks and horrible purple anodizing. At that time I had only seen grainy B&W photos. That's not what showed up. Nice deep dark black anodizing, nitride coating on the parts kit was all good, could not find a single flaw in the finish. I got it home where my previously ordered CMMG barrel & bolt were already waiting (another black Friday score at $299). Everything fit together like a glove. Tension screw to take up any play but even without receivers fit together tightly. I've been running it for about 9 months now. I've never enjoyed any firearm as much as I do this thing. It's not a side charging model but I'm not sure I would like that on an 8.5" handguard. Too busy, not enough real estate. I put a PWS buffer tube & comp on it, LaRue trigger, SBA3 brace and scored a Vortex SPARC on Ebay for $85. A little over half the cost of a top-tier Banshee and that's with the optic and a set of BUIS. Great quality products and excellent customer service! I think the low price scares people away but compare their side by side to a PWS PCC and see if you notice any similarities. Both built in Boise.. Both companies worked together on the Brownells BRN-180..
  7. I think it may depend on the manufacturer, but I can only speak to what I know. I have a Foxtrot Mike's build kit, it used to be sold on Primary Arms but they discontinued it. Upper, lower, 8.5" handguard & all the springs, detents & pins were included. It ran fine when I put it together if you inserted the mag on an open bolt, so I knew right off I didn't need to remove much material. I talked to people using different brand lowers and they said that they needed to remove as much as 1/8" from their magazine release. I was nowhere near that. I just scratched a reference line on my mag release where it looked like I needed to be, clamped a file into my vise, then just dragged the release along the file making sure I was holding it as level as I possibly could. When I got close to my witness marks I checked the fit, then wrapped the file with emory cloth to slow down the amount of material being removed. I just did this & kept checking the fit until it cycled smoothly. It doesn't need a lot of contact to scoop a round off the top of the mag. I may have removed around 1/16" of material altogether. It didn't take a lot, just some patience and fitting. I could have taken it to my friend's and had him mill it off but I felt confident I could just do it by hand if I went slow and held it steady. Like I said, it ran but if you tried to charge it on a full mag, the lugs on the bolt wanted to rip the round off the top of the magazine and gouged the s#!t out of the brass. I never touched any of my magazines or followers and I've run Glock mags, Magpul 21 rounders & a KCI 50 round drum. Smooth as butter!
  8. I just filed a little material from the top of my magazine release rather than trim the magazines. A normal blowback bolt doesn't have an actual bolt with lugs to clear, so I found that lowering the mag in the magwell made it much easier to charge if you inserted the mag on a closed bolt. The lugs weren't gouging the hell out of the brass on the backstroke either.
  9. Foxtrot Mike's lower has a mag stop milled into the side of the magwell much like the Guard lower. That along with the LRBHO design where what sold me on their lower. Their excellent customer service was also a factor. I was asking some questions about the mag stop, (it was hard to see in photos) on their Facebook page and had the VP of the company send me a friend request so we could communicate more easily through messenger. Yes, the top of the mag release needed a bit of material shaved off to get the magazine to the correct height. I just filed it away a little at a time until I got it perfect.
  10. I finally got around to getting my FM Products mag release filed down to the right height. I must have had the mag release in & out a dozen times. It's cycling like butter at this point. It really didn't take a lot material removal, in fact I was worried I'd take too much off and have to build up with some weld & start over. Looking at the distance between my mag stop and the flat spot on the magazine I'm only looking at a spacer slightly thicker than 1/16". I was thinking maybe a piece of that rubberized refrigerator magnet. Easy to cut, holds its shape and already has adhesive on it. LRBHO still works on every mag I've finished. I was concerned I might have to modify it also after lowering the magazine height.
  11. Looks to be a Strike Industries endplate & castle nut. Hey MemphisMechanic, didn't you end up swapping out the Colt lower for a KE Glock lower?
  12. I'm thinking of something similar, but coming in from the other side. Check out a PDQ bolt catch. I'm not a big fan of their design though. I think I can do better and my FM products lower uses a proprietary bolt catch that bolts to their LRBHO. https://www.odinworks.com/product_p/acc-pdq.htm
  13. This is where I think CMMG dropped the ball with the Guard and the Banshee. If you don't need the ejector in the lower, you could move the bolt catch at least .75" closer to the magwell fairly easily. Compatibility with some billet uppers would be the only problem I could think of? It doesn't take a lot of force to strip a round out of a Glock magazine.
  14. I've been meaning to ask you if you use any of the CMMG weights for the bolt itself. I ordered a LaRue MBT trigger yesterday. Now all I need is a Kynshot buffer, .308 spring, and I've been thinking about a POF or 2A Armament AR-10 length buffer tube. I could probably stuff a wave spring covered by a quarter in the extra .75" of the tube, (if it even gets that far) and the little extra length of pull wouldn't be a bad thing.
  15. It would run fine as long as I inserted the mag on an open bolt. It would scratch the hell out of the brass though. I pulled the mag catch out of my FM lower last week to mill the catch down a bit. I need a few things done at a machine shop at the moment. Finding the time to go is the problem.
  16. I haven't experienced anything like that but I have to insert my mags on an open bolt. I'm using a lower that's currently holding the mag a bit too high in the magwell to load it any other way. My casings are getting scratched up a bit from the lugs on the bolt dragging while cycling, but nothing like that.
  17. Done! This is what I've been babbling about.
  18. Will do! Finally got the magazine release out to shave a bit off after stripping the allen screw. Had to pound a torx bit into it to break it loose. They had some hellacious thread locker on that thing from the factory. Mental note- throw some heat on anything else I need to remove. BTW, how do I shrink photos to .49MB?
  19. https://www.glockstore.com/FM-9-Complete-Lower?quantity=1&custcol19=1 The Foxtrot Mike's polymer lower is completely ambidextrous including the bolt release and their side charging uppers can easily be swapped from side to side. These lowers are always sold out everywhere but the Glockstore. The problem is they're the most expensive of their retailers. FM products makes great stuff at reasonable price. I bought their build kit (billet upper, lower & 8.5" M-lok handguard) for my pistol build, and I'm very satisfied with it. Lifetime warranty on everything and the best customer service I've ever experienced with any company.
  20. No, I like seeing what other people are up to. I lurked around this forum for months before creating an account. I learned a lot by going through old threads and reading about problems and solutions that people come up with. It's good to put this stuff out there. You never know who's reading this & trying to educate themselves.
  21. I think you misunderstood what I was saying. The ejector on a FM lower is only the ejector. There is a stop milled into the magwell to limit the height of the magazine. I was talking about adding material to that. It should only take a small amount of added material as I already have something to build from. That was one of features that sold me on their lowers, I knew I'd have somewhere to start.
  22. No it's cool man! I'm glad to hear you're having the success with your rig that you are. This was my first build and I was wondering if I was making a mistake by taking a different path than others. I'm happy to know that I'm not on my own and I have a few guys out there to bounce ideas off of. I haven't got my buffer system nailed down yet. Just running a standard carbine weight & spring for the time being so I'm open to all suggestions. Sounds like the Endomags are working fine by the video clip?
  23. Thank you! I've been thinking much along the same line. Using the ejector as the starting point for a spacer. The fact that it's removable would just make it so much easier to work and make adjustments. I thought about using an epoxy to add material to the stop or tacking a spacer under it, then again I'm hesitant to make any permanent changes that I may regret later. I want to keep my options open so I can swap to any upper by just changing mag releases, ejectors and buffer systems.
  24. What is the best way to limit the height to prevent over-insertion insertion of the magazine? I have the Guard guts installed in a FM products build kit that does have a stop milled into the magwell. I'm usually inserting the magazine on an open bolt so it's not a huge issue, but I am noticing my brass is getting a bit scraped up. I'd prefer not to make any permanent changes to the lower, I'll just pick up an extra mag release and mill a bit off the top of the one I have. I'm thinking some sort of stop extension that just bolts in where the ejector once sat. It's running well as is, I'd just like to know that I'm good to shoot prone or off a bench monopoding off the magazine.
  25. I have the 8.5" version and I'm very happy with it. It's a pretty slim, lightweight & clean slick side upper. No forward assist and you don't need to use the brass deflector or ejection port cover if you choose not to, the deflector bolts on and holds the port cover pin in place. The handguard has a tab that slides into the rail of the upper reciever to prevent rotation and ensure the rail stays centered. I cannot speak for the 15" but I know my 8.5" has absolutely no flex & it has 8 screws securing it to about a 2" barrel nut that it fits fairly snug to. Nice fit & finish and has M-lok slots at 3, 6 & 9. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/ar-15-ultra-light-monoltihic-upper-receivers-prod120144.aspx
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